[Dee]

what do you use? Where do you mount it?

what did it cost/did you use a kit?

How do you go about mounting one to the outside of the vehicle?
I was thinking about running a pull cord to a 'flick' type switch, but don't know where or how to mount the pull cord...
Can the pull cord be easily removed for when not competing?

Also where can you get the recover/isolation label stickers from? Can you get them as the 'magnet' type so you can remove them?

[royce]

there is a cole hersee one that pretty good, better than the red key ones, I'll see if I can find the number

they are about $80? plus cable

thats up to you, but make sure you isolate the NEGATIVE battery lead and have it as close to teh battery as possible
put the cord up near the clock and jsut leave it there anyway?

revolution racegear sells the stickers but I am sure a sign writer could make you a blue magnetic triangle with 75mm sides

[steve]

i have the cole herse one, it's pretty good quality. I put it on the bit between the bonnet and the windscreen frame.

you can get the stickers from Extreme Motorsports on Toombul road aswell. a few dollars each i think.

you might aswell just commit and leave them on, it'll be a trailer rig soon anyway

[Dee]

cheers guys i'll reseach more into cole hearse...

Quote:

put the cord up near the clock and jsut leave it there anyway?

I meant where to mount the "remote" end of the pull cord... IE where an official would "pull" the loop from? & how to mount it so that it can be tucked up out of the way when not competing?
As I understand it I need a switch, reachable by both navi/driver, and also one on the outside of the vehicle? (Hence the pullcord type idea)

Also with the sticker type thing, just needs to be plain full blue/ no white/symbols etc? red triangle for recovery?


1. more retard question...
Is it legal to remove fan/heater/demister etc controls from the dash. Considering filling with a sheet of alloy for switches etc…

steve wrote:

you might aswell just commit and leave them on, it'll be a trailer rig soon anyway

ssshhhhh dont say that!

[royce]

pretty sure cams say it has to be accesable from outside and not the driver, the pull cords are incase the switch cant be put in a good spot (the longer the lead between switch and neg terminal the less effective it can be

cams say blue triangle 75mm sides, no fancy shit needed

you could as long as you can keep a working windscreen demister, like jam it to hot and screen and run a switch for the fan

[Damo]

DEEV8 wrote:

Is it legal to remove fan/heater/demister etc controls from the dash. Considering filling with a sheet of alloy for switches etc…

As long as the windscreen demister still works that's all you should need to be legal. What about pissing off the clock and filling that space in for switches etc?

[steve]

I bought a Cole Hearsy switch from Coventry Auto, was about $60 i think. Every where else didn't know what i was talking about. Even Extreme Motorsport wasn't sure but could order one but quoted $120.

Extreme Motorsport have the Hunter Racing Jeep in their shop, it has the switch ( one of those cheap red handle ones ) where you might have the fan controls, and the pull cord comes out at the rear of the bonnet as just a finger loop thing. It does all the rallies so it'd have to be cams approved, not saying that anyone actually checks the vehicles

[keechox]

not sure if this is what you mean, but i used to have a redkey type isolator on my race car and for the outside i used a multi use choke cable, on the key end i made sure it was attatched to the key and from outside i mounted it on the scuttle panel (the grill under the windscreen).

when you pulled on the knob on the end of the "choke cable" it twisted the key to the off position

passed scruit for improved production class in circuit racing, im guessing would pass most

[lump_a_charcoal]

royce wrote:

there is a cole hersee one that pretty good, better than the red key ones, I'll see if I can find the number

they are about $80? plus cable

thats up to you, but make sure you isolate the NEGATIVE battery lead and have it as close to teh battery as possible
put the cord up near the clock and jsut leave it there anyway?

revolution racegear sells the stickers but I am sure a sign writer could make you a blue magnetic triangle with 75mm sides

Why the negative?

[royce]

if you switch the positive, then the cable between battery terminal and the switch can short out anywhere on any steel and make a circuit and fire

if you switch the negative then that lead needs to rub through to metal and the positive needs to rub through, much much harder to do

[royce]

http://www.camsmanual.com.au/pdf/genera ... C_Q308.pdf

item 10 is for battery switch

I would still be inclined to have the switch outside and remote switch inside to keep the cables short

and it looks like the marker has to be fancy now

[Damo]

royce wrote:

there is a cole hersee one that pretty good, better than the red key ones, I'll see if I can find the number

they are about $80? plus cable

Why are they so much better? Seems like a pretty simple thing, and you can get the red key type ones for $15 on fleabay. Where does the other $65 go???

[royce]

ever had a red key one fail? or tried to push some current through one?

more about build quality than anything, better sealed and so on

oh and get the one with the extra little terminals on them to cut the coil power, otherwise the engine wont stop