[mcwilly]

I may aswell give it a go. I have it bumpstopped pretty well I think so might be ok

[31zook]

As this is a bit of a blue print for AZ's big merging topics, im not really sure how to go about it, so bear with me. hints/tips welcome, wingers deleted.

this is a good topic starter, it outlines the mechanics of a RUF (rear up front) and most to all the questions about it are answered in it.
http://auszookers.com/index.php?name=Fo ... hlight=ruf
Gwagensteve has posted a good ruf write up on OL, if anyone has saved that then chuck it up here as OL links are long gawn

ruf with lux shock towers
http://www.auszookers.com/index.php?nam ... c&start=30
A ruf isn't hard to work out, so there is shock, shackle, angle, spring, and loads more information in these links, but if for any reason you have more questions then post em here.

[Zook_Fan]

Not winging but isn't the point of the mergers to stick all of the actual threads into one? Have all of the information in one thread that is miles long. No need for external links where people actually have to do their own clicking just a huge thread that they can read through and pick up what is going on.

[Fatzook]

Zook_Fan wrote:

Not winging but isn't the point of the mergers to stick all of the actual threads into one? Have all of the information in one thread that is miles long. No need for external links where people actually have to do their own clicking just a huge thread that they can read through and pick up what is going on.

Yep thats my understanding of Royces' dribble too.

Cut and paste

[31zook]

Zook_Fan wrote:

Not winging but isn't the point of the mergers to stick all of the actual threads into one? Have all of the information in one thread that is miles long. No need for external links where people actually have to do their own clicking just a huge thread that they can read through and pick up what is going on.

not ever ruf thread is worth merging,

31zook wrote:

...If there was 13pages of ruffness then no body would find the information they were after and all the same questions would get asked again....

so unless someone else had a good reason to move more existing threads into here, i think this will now get Q & A now on.....

[skyman]

great thread, great read! Good job armsup

[taszook]

was thinking of doing ruf but not real good with a welder or any of that, would a bolt-on kit like this work or best to stay away from it?

http://www.lowrangeoffroad.com/index.ph ... parts.html

[skyman]

That kit is used with great success here in the states, that set up handles good and works well off road. It's made by Trail tough, they are a damned good manufacturer. As a matter of fact they are the ONLY maker of a missing link kit that I will suggest using, or refer people to. Brent did his homework, so they handle well on road as well as off road.

I don't like the design or the build quality of any other missing link vendor, so I wouldn't recommend any but trail tough's

Now I don't think it will be road legal for you down there, so that is a bummer. You would need to pick up a set of the one incher's here to make them work correctly. http://www.lowrangeoffroad.com/index.ph ... ckles.html

I don't know if you have access to international calling, but if you call and ask for Brent, he will tell you all about how they work, and everything else that is involved with the install.

[taszook]

where i live everything is road legal haha. fairly casual down here. might have to consider this then. thanks for the input

also i guess i would need longer shocks as well, would i need new shock mounts/hoops whatever? or just using a longer shock will work?

[skyman]

I am not sure, I went with ford shock towers up front, and did stock upper mounts in the rear.

For the axle I used trail tough's mounts. They are a quick setup, actually the ford mounts are too, there was a thread about those the other day.

You will need much longer shocks for the front to get all the articulation you want from the kit.

I recommend at least 3 inches of uptravel to be able to run 35-45 MPH on gravel and corrugated roads. Otherwise your rig will bounce off the the bumpstops when loaded, or doing beach work.

[taszook]

so i've read about 137 ruf threads now and it seems "full ruf" is not going to happen for me. the only option left is the standard rears up front, re-drill 25mm back and 10mm up and run ext shackles option. I currently have 40mm ome front and rear, will there be enough gain to worry about doing it? i know everyone has mixed opinions on the redrill method but i cant weld and dont want to grind bits off my car

[suzi-fan-22]

so my question is:

when i do my ruf i was intending to do full ruf but keep standard shackles i was wondering how far forward this pushes the diff and will i have to move shock and bumpstop mounts in order for it to work, but i also intend to use commo/hiace shocks so will i have to get a larger shock mount anyway?
is this far enough to make my steering bind?

or (as an easy way out / plan b if there is to much work involved) can i just mount the rear of the spring backward by cuting the mount off and moving back so that my steering still works (without touching).

(ps) id rather do the first because there are move benifits as explained

Gwagensteve wrote:

This is how RUF totally changes the way the car works. This car is pointing downhill but is balanced and stable. With stock front suspension, it will want to follow the nose and pick a rear wheel up, which can pretty quickly turn into a roll.



Steve

just to clarify i am just using standard sierra rears with upside down leaf removed and the bottom leaf removed (3 leaf pack)

also to regain height in the rear i was going to use some ''EFS 4wd Suspension 65mm Lift Kit made specifically for your sierra'' from dank and i was also going to run it as a 3 leaf pack also.

would this setup be nice ride/flex or should i get some extended shackles and get some differant springs?

and this is what im aiming to run around a 31'' or a 235/85 (i think it measure at about a 32'')

and hoping to get about this much front flex



and please dont tell me to search because i have searched 'ruf' and read almost every single one

and for other people needing help few links
how to ruf (by asjr)
ruf merger thread

[ashzook94]

i like this guy hahaha ^^ yeah ill do the same thing

[jmd-247]

Measure from the eye of the leaf to the locator hole, And that is the difference!! around 30mm from memory. are you moving the fromt hanger point forward??

[suzi-fan-22]

yes

[neofitou]

ah this thread got merged when I was typing this..

I did mine full RUF, but I also did power steering at the same time and moved the box forward about 25mm, so I didnt have any issues with the steering.

I did make my own shock towers, they were only about 45mm higher than stock, and ran a longer shock that gave me about 90mm more droop than stock, and I chopped off the bump stops and moved them forward.

But, I did it to the engineers spec, which had me chop off the whole front of the chassis and remake it rather than just a little extension, fish plates that extended well into both ways, doubled where the steering box is.

[suzi-fan-22]

but if i just chuck the springs in and move the front mounts to suit will my steering be a problem?

[tanshi]

move both front and rear mounts.

you can only move your front diff forward around an inch before you start running into issues

[suzi-fan-22]

and those issues include?
i dont mind moving the bumpstops and shock mounts its just the steering im worried

[tanshi]

steering is going to be an issue. if you move the diff forward more than about 25 mm

[suzi-fan-22]

oh ok so how do i limit myself to moving the diff 25mm forward?
chassis extention for 25mm then redrill perch or
chassis extention for 25mm then redrill hanger

[tanshi]

when we did the last one on a sierra we used king springs. we moved the front mount forward. the back one back. and then measured up where there diff should be and adjusted by redrilling the perch

[suzi-fan-22]

ok thanks for that but did you run itno any problems using standard shackles?

[tanshi]

no, i wont use anything other than standard shackles.

extended shackles = shit

[suzi-fan-22]

and when i move front diff forward i should use a driveline spacer and will i need to move my bumpstops froward the 25mm?

[tanshi]

25mm should be ok without the spacer

bump stops may need moving

[suzi-fan-22]

ok but i will get one when i order from lowrange they have 1'' spacers

[joe5701]

gday, I'v been looking through a few threads about ruf and have noticed most people say that to get the hanger distance right it takes a bit of stuffing around, but why cant I just measure the rear hanger distance center to center and bang the front on at the same measurement?
I intend on useing stock rears and stock shackles.
Just thinking as im typing is it the extra load on the springs that makes them sit flatter so the hanger needs to be further forward? cheers,joe

[alien]

as you said, the front weighs more than the rear so the leaf sits flatter and so will the shackle angle... you could load up the rear with weight to see where the shackle ends up with those measurements and use that as a guide though =)

[joe5701]

thanks I just wasnt sure.
do the standard rears usually take the extra load up front ok?