[mrw82]

Hi guys, i'm having trouble with the setup and performance of my rear suspenion. vehicle is a 1.0 litre sierra LWB trayback with welded rear diff, 40mm wheel spacers.
I had 2" OME lifted rear springs and with anything other than all 6 leaves in the pack the shackles would invert on full compression, having the welded rear I just ran the full leaf pack and put up with a stiff rear end

the bushes wore to a point where the shackles were inverting just going over bumpy flat tracks so decided time to get rid of the shit OME's and go back to EFS, which I have now installed (I used to run an EFS 2" lifted spring pack with only 3 leaves before I was locked diffed and wheel spacers, never ever had a problem).

when putting the new EFS springs in I took the load leaf out (still running 4 leaves in the spring pack) put new bushes in and added a 2" bump stop extension. well wouldn't you fucking know it, first trip out and the shackles are bloody inverting!

so what the hell can I do to fix this. possible solutions I can think of but aren't entirely happy with are:
extended shackles
cut rear spring hanger off and move it rearwards by about 25mm
stop plate on chassis so that when shackle/spring come up and hit they don't jam and will actually drop back when spring not on compression.


to me the moving of the rear spring hanger seems to be the most proper fix, the others are just bandaid fixes. but I shouldn't have to do it when I've fitted off the shelf parts, it should just bloody work straight out of the box. so all the suspension guru's out there tell me, what am I missing. this problem is driving me

[SuziBlu]

Limit up travel, ie, extend bump stops.

[steak_knife]

SuziBlu wrote:

Limit up travel, ie, extend bump stops.

he did.....


move your hanger to suit the spring's you WANT to run....

[skyman]

X2 it is the only way to really fix the problem and never worry about it again.

[alien]

other than running a shorter leaf you'll have to do as you and others suggested and relocate the hanger... if its only a little bit you can redrill the stock one, but that is pretty dodgy.

[skyman]

Do you have a picture of the hanger you are using now? Is it stock?

as long as there is enough meat around the new hole you drill it shouldn't be too dodgy.

You could also bolt, or weld a plate on the stock hanger, and drill a hole in that. That is essentially what the RUF/YJ relocation plates do. The plates bolt into the stock hole, and a few other places, and relocate the fixed spring hole back a few MM.

I know we posted up the drawing for a RUF plate a day or so ago, so it should be easy to find.

The thing that gets e is that it looks like you have a good shackle angle. What is your shackle angle going to look like if you move the spring back? Is the angle going to be too steep for a decent ride?

[Gwagensteve]

This is an application where I'd run a longer shackle. Even 20mm longer than stock would be enough to fix the problem. I don't see any problem with using a longer shackle in this application.

Steve.

[steak_knife]

Gwagensteve wrote:

This is an application where I'd run a longer shackle. Even 20mm longer than stock would be enough to fix the problem. I don't see any problem with using a longer shackle in this application.

Steve.

I agree with rear....