[bucketnut]

I'm keen to pull my little zook off the road toward the end of this year in order to carry out some much needed mods and rust repair. I've been toying with the idea of building a full sheet floor out of 1.2 or 2mm has anyone done this?

[bails]

i did the back of my Lwb a couple of years ago using 1mm. if i did it again i would use 2mm sheet a bit harder to cut and shape but wouldn't buckle as much.

[85zooki]

Pritty much my footwells but 3.5mm

[Fatzook]

I've done repairs with 1.6. Works pretty well. As far as replacng the complete floor I don't think it would be worth the effort. Just buy another tub and swap it over.

[Teracis]

I've got a bit of the floor to do, nothing too major though.

Is there anything special required when you're repairing the floor underneath the seats?
The plan was to fab in some better bracing (because it will be easier to just replace the whole section where the seats are on either side) and while I'm at it make it stronger. It's surprisingly thin sheet that the seat rails bolt to.

Was thinking of using some bar or similar where the seat rails mount.

[ajsr]

if you put ribs/ folds in you dont need 1.6 or 2mm.
thats why they are there from the factory

[dominator]

Teracis wrote:

I've got a bit of the floor to do, nothing too major though.

Is there anything special required when you're repairing the floor underneath the seats?
The plan was to fab in some better bracing (because it will be easier to just replace the whole section where the seats are on either side) and while I'm at it make it stronger. It's surprisingly thin sheet that the seat rails bolt to.

Was thinking of using some bar or similar where the seat rails mount.

I would be carefull modifing/replacing where seats mount to. AFAIK any mods to seating mounts would have to be engineered or modplated. I am happy for someone to prove me wrong. Just something to consider.

[jimbo_jones]

dominator wrote:

Teracis wrote:

I've got a bit of the floor to do, nothing too major though.

Is there anything special required when you're repairing the floor underneath the seats?
The plan was to fab in some better bracing (because it will be easier to just replace the whole section where the seats are on either side) and while I'm at it make it stronger. It's surprisingly thin sheet that the seat rails bolt to.

Was thinking of using some bar or similar where the seat rails mount.

I would be carefull modifing/replacing where seats mount to. AFAIK any mods to seating mounts would have to be engineered or modplated. I am happy for someone to prove me wrong. Just something to consider.

not if repaired back to std specs if you you did a good enough job no one would even know

[shakes]

Teracis wrote:

I've got a bit of the floor to do, nothing too major though.

Is there anything special required when you're repairing the floor underneath the seats?
The plan was to fab in some better bracing (because it will be easier to just replace the whole section where the seats are on either side) and while I'm at it make it stronger. It's surprisingly thin sheet that the seat rails bolt to.

Was thinking of using some bar or similar where the seat rails mount.

Be a bit carefull doing this... You may make the problem section you can see, be moved to another section you cant see and cause more damage, not saying you aren't, but it's always worth thinking about why they have mounted the seats the way they have. By strengthening that mount will you now move the streses somewhere else and cause more damage or have the car react differently to the way suzuki intended in an accident?

Modifying seat mounts you should get it certified as its a safety thing.

I repaired my cracked mounts by drilling the ends of the cracks so they dont spread. then welded up/ground back.

I plan to strengthen the mounts by running some 4mmx40mm strap or similar on the inside between the seat mount and the floor and bolting through that. I figure it's mostly movement in the base thats cause the cracks, then creating a bigger footprint should stop alot of the flex and hopefully be alot less liable to crack.

Failing that, will get another piece of 4mm x ~80mm plate to sandwhich the floor pan.

Almost certain it wont be the best way, but require's the least welding of something structual and in an accident hopefully will tear the floor, rather then have the seat base just snapping.

Welding 2mm plate to the .5mm sierra floor pan will be a bit tricky. I used 1.6 and had some trouble getting my weld angle right so as not to blow holes in the floorpan. I'm far from a good welder though

good luck

[Fatzook]

I fixed up some broken seat mounts in a jimny last week. I just made little fish plates and welded them over the damaged areas after welding captive nuts to the back. Spreads the load over a larger area and also gived the opportunity to add some more meat to the area.

As for the floor, the pressed ribs are what gives the stregth, not the thickness.

[Teracis]

This was basically my plan (as in the flatbar/plate) to strengthen what's there.

The parts that need replacing are not ribbed, some bastard just replaced them with silicon and painted them

[bucketnut]

I've done repairs with 1.6. Works pretty well. As far as replacng the complete floor I don't think it would be worth the effort. Just buy another tub and swap it over.

^^ this was a earlier thought but from what ive seen they all fuckout and rust out in the same spots so i'd rather try take all the infectious ares and be done with them. replace original cross brace with 50x25 box and do the sills at the same time.

[bucketnut]

ajsr wrote:

if you put ribs/ folds in you dont need 1.6 or 2mm.
thats why they are there from the factory

without folds do you think 1.6mm would be alright?

[sbyard]

Has anyone got photos of what the footwell loos like with sheet replacement?

[Gwagensteve]

Hack is what a floor repair looks like without ribs.

Surely there's enough rolled sierras around to get the floor out of. That's what I did with Piggles - my 660 came with a really rough hardtop donor that has rust free floors. ( hint- rough hardtops generally have rust free floors) so I welded the donor floor in - looks stock.

In any case, sooner or later you have to weld that 1.6 to stock floor thickness and that's a PITA.

1.6 is the thickest I would EVER use for any panel repair on a sierra. It's miles thicker than stock. Adding thickness is no substitute for poor workmanship/design.

Steve.

[Fatzook]

Gwagensteve wrote:

Adding thickness is no substitute for poor workmanship/design.

Steve.

My missus would disagree

[SierraDan]

[tanshi]

3cyl replaced his LJ floor

[BlueSuzy]

I found a swb cut rear tub to modify my rear floor. Half my front footwels are sheet/custom shaped also. All zinc sheet i have used is 1.1. Not to bad welding it to the floor, But the outer sheet panels are thin. Just have to have patience and the right setting.

Rear tub, Still have the old blue rusty pos floor, But the red was like new..No rust..


There is now a long box around this, But bottom left is sheet repair.

[Rusho]

Fatzook wrote:

Gwagensteve wrote:

Adding thickness is no substitute for poor workmanship/design.

Steve.

My missus would disagree