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Tubby Elfsdong
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Post Posted: Sun Jun 12, 2011 6:52 am 
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What options are out there?? I know I may get crucified for suggesting something like THISor THIS Is it going to be any good??

I know BenT has the kit available to use with Mitsubishi Galant calipers, I am just after suggestions and other options that is all. The old drums are starting to shit me off, I dont want to have to replace any parts in them. Would rather put the $$'s to better use and have discs.

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Last edited by Rusho on Sun Jun 12, 2011 7:08 am, edited 1 time in total.
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Post Posted: Sun Jun 12, 2011 6:56 am 
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if you have a gear driven transfer case just bolt a 1.0 handbrake drum onto it.

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Post Posted: Sun Jun 12, 2011 6:57 am 
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I thought of that..how hard are they to find and maintain?? Wanted to try and get away from having any type of drum all together though :wink:

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Post Posted: Sun Jun 12, 2011 7:01 am 
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:roll:











:crazy:

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Post Posted: Sun Jun 12, 2011 7:03 am 
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i just rang wants33s and all the bits needed arrived a week later.

haven't fitted it yet so i dunno how good it will be

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Post Posted: Sun Jun 12, 2011 7:03 am 
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steak_knife wrote:
:roll:











:crazy:


Care to build on that comment my fury little friend??

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Post Posted: Sun Jun 12, 2011 7:05 am 
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The line lock idea was suggested from someone who sells the kit. I just want to know if it would work/be a safe alternative?

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Post Posted: Sun Jun 12, 2011 7:19 am 
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The line will work but if it was me I wouldn't use it if I'm not in the car at all
I have done the rear disc conversion and I'm just going to use the handbreak drum I have on my transfercase

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Post Posted: Sun Jun 12, 2011 7:53 am 
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Rusho wrote:
The line lock idea was suggested from someone who sells the kit. I just want to know if it would work/be a safe alternative?


I'm not sure that is legal on passeneger vehicles in QLD.

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Post Posted: Sun Jun 12, 2011 7:55 am 
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Fatzook wrote:
Rusho wrote:
The line lock idea was suggested from someone who sells the kit. I just want to know if it would work/be a safe alternative?


I'm not sure that is legal on passeneger vehicles in QLD.


:helloo: Mr.Pete....I thought as much :evil:

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Post Posted: Sun Jun 12, 2011 8:12 am 
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im gonna get this one...

http://www.lowrangeoffroad.com/index.ph ... e-kit.html

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Post Posted: Sun Jun 12, 2011 8:14 am 
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The 1.3NT transfer mounted drum is fine and works well so long as it's adjusted. The problem is they aren't self adjusting so from time to time they need a tweak.

Of course, the other problem is they get caught on stuff.

I've had a play with a Spidertrax transfer mounted disk park brake, but it's expensive for what it is and it's also not self adjusting.

I have a TT rear drive disconnect on my car, so I had to remove my handbrake. I run a line locker, but no, they aren't legal and they aren't a long term solution as they consume power when they are on. They are just fantastic offroad though. Totally not a gimmick - I NEVER roll back when pulling away regardless of how steep or scary the position is.

Even if I had an operational handbrake, I wouldn't be without a line locker now I've had one. (The only proviso is if I had an auto I wouldn't need one)

Steve.

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Post Posted: Sun Jun 12, 2011 8:22 am 
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KTi Mechanical Cable operated Brake Caliper, 5mm plate and a pit bike disc with the same PCD as your transfer case flange and voila! Disc handbrake solution for cheap!

Cut and drill to bolt mounting plate onto rear transfer output used by stock handbrake drum on NT's, bolt caliper up and rotor onto transfer.

i did this on my zook I have been meaning for years to take pics so I will get some soon so you know what i'm talking about.

KTI Go Cart Caliper: $125
Pit Bike Rotor: looks of looking for months on Ebay, $35 delviered from UK.
5mm Plate: $10
Cable knarps to connect cable to handbrake mechanism x 2: $3.00 each.

Done. Works really well, holds on anything.

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Post Posted: Sun Jun 12, 2011 8:36 am 
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dank wrote:
KTI Go Cart Caliper: $125


I could never work out why these pissy little calipers are so expensive.

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Post Posted: Sun Jun 12, 2011 8:44 am 
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Dank do you have any pics of how you have done this mod?? Would be a great little project. I assume it would need adjusting over time??

What about a hydraulic hand brake?? Using pit bike parts?? Could it be done, or am I thinking to far out of the box??

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Post Posted: Sun Jun 12, 2011 9:10 am 
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If you pulled a hand brake system out of another Sierra I'm sure pete would love to make a piston work underneath it, the. Follow what dank did and presto, a disk hydro hand brake.... Simple in theory...

Nik told me that back in the day when 1.3 sierras first came out they would buy 1L hand brakes get a debur or a dermel and roughen up the drum, and he said he has never had to adjust his with this setup....

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Post Posted: Sun Jun 12, 2011 9:50 am 
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the problem with anything hydraulic is they arent suitable to keep a car in place for any length of time, IE your driveway :)

transfer handbrakes do hold better (in theory) but you either need traction on both wheels or an airlocker and some wires to be effective off road

if you arent worried about the parking aspect of it (and leaving it in gear to park has the same problems as a transfer brake) then a hydraulic handbrake is cheap and easy for off road use

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Post Posted: Sun Jun 12, 2011 9:51 am 
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dank wrote:
KTi Mechanical Cable operated Brake Caliper, 5mm plate and a pit bike disc with the same PCD as your transfer case flange and voila! Disc handbrake solution for cheap!

Cut and drill to bolt mounting plate onto rear transfer output used by stock handbrake drum on NT's, bolt caliper up and rotor onto transfer.

i did this on my zook I have been meaning for years to take pics so I will get some soon so you know what i'm talking about.

KTI Go Cart Caliper: $125
Pit Bike Rotor: looks of looking for months on Ebay, $35 delviered from UK.
5mm Plate: $10
Cable knarps to connect cable to handbrake mechanism x 2: $3.00 each.

Done. Works really well, holds on anything.


KSI :wink:

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Post Posted: Sun Jun 12, 2011 9:56 am 
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royce wrote:
the problem with anything hydraulic is they arent suitable to keep a car in place for any length of time, IE your driveway :)

transfer handbrakes do hold better (in theory) but you either need traction on both wheels or an airlocker and some wires to be effective off road

if you arent worried about the parking aspect of it (and leaving it in gear to park has the same problems as a transfer brake) then a hydraulic handbrake is cheap and easy for off road use


It works well on trailers 8)

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Post Posted: Sun Jun 12, 2011 10:08 am 
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ball wrote:
royce wrote:
the problem with anything hydraulic is they arent suitable to keep a car in place for any length of time, IE your driveway :)

transfer handbrakes do hold better (in theory) but you either need traction on both wheels or an airlocker and some wires to be effective off road

if you arent worried about the parking aspect of it (and leaving it in gear to park has the same problems as a transfer brake) then a hydraulic handbrake is cheap and easy for off road use


It works well on trailers 8)


ill let somebody else tel the story of the run away trailer that barreled through camp one night and managed to not hit a single person or tent :)

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Post Posted: Sun Jun 12, 2011 10:17 am 
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royce wrote:

ill let somebody else tel the story of the run away trailer that barreled through camp one night and managed to not hit a single person or tent :)


lack of maintenance or brakes not applied correctly :wink:

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Post Posted: Sun Jun 12, 2011 10:21 am 
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the master bled off a bit of pressure, pretty hard to know when they will just start doing that :)

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Post Posted: Sun Jun 12, 2011 10:39 am 
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royce wrote:
the master bled off a bit of pressure, pretty hard to know when they will just start doing that :)


But they shouldn't be bleeding off.

something is leaking or seals are shot 8O

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Post Posted: Sun Jun 12, 2011 10:51 am 
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What about one of THESEwith a bash guard for the rotor???

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Post Posted: Sun Jun 12, 2011 12:17 pm 
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I've got a transfer handbrake. it's damn near perfect for stopping power.
The only let down is that it needs to be adjusted frequently (every 500-1000kms).
If I was to replace it, I'd probably go with a caliper/rotor off a car that uses rear disc brakes incorporating the handbrake. ie: swift GTI.

I'd really like to have a rock solid handbrake for when I'm offroad on suss angles and need to hold position without the foot brake. Perhaps thats a time where the linelock could be justified.


Last edited by mnemonix on Sun Jun 12, 2011 12:19 pm, edited 1 time in total.
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Post Posted: Sun Jun 12, 2011 12:17 pm 
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Rusho wrote:
What about one of THESEwith a bash guard for the rotor???


Charlie has one. It lasted 5 mins without a bash guard. Problem is, that it hangs down so low, the bash guard would have to be even lower :cry:

If you had a transfer lift it would be better...........

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Post Posted: Sun Jun 12, 2011 1:45 pm 
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yeah ball you are right, shows how long its been since i did it...It's KSI boys!

I thoguht KTI didn't sound right and I never understood why the things are so bloody expenisve as it's just a big bike disc brake caliper. good thing it's its adjustable. with spacer plates that come with the kit.

Really i think that hydraulic is way overkill. Why do that when a cable is so effective and easy to integrate into the stock system?

I've had to adjust my cable once in about the two years it been back on the road...it took all of 5 minutes to loosen the knarps, pull some more cable through and tighten the knarps again.

It's so simple i can't beleive more people don't go down this path. I'll get some pics when I go to the zook again this coming week sometime. Looks similar to the spidertrax e-brake kit but without the bling!

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Post Posted: Sun Jun 12, 2011 10:27 pm 
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dank wrote:
yeah ball you are right, shows how long its been since i did it...It's KSI boys!

I thoguht KTI didn't sound right and I never understood why the things are so bloody expenisve as it's just a big bike disc brake caliper. good thing it's its adjustable. with spacer plates that come with the kit.

Really i think that hydraulic is way overkill. Why do that when a cable is so effective and easy to integrate into the stock system?

I've had to adjust my cable once in about the two years it been back on the road...it took all of 5 minutes to loosen the knarps, pull some more cable through and tighten the knarps again.

It's so simple i can't beleive more people don't go down this path. I'll get some pics when I go to the zook again this coming week sometime. Looks similar to the spidertrax e-brake kit but without the bling!


What's the dia of the rotor you used? Losing ground clearance to the rotor would be the biggest drawback.

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Post Posted: Sun Jun 12, 2011 10:51 pm 
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I used R31 Skyline calipers with Sierra rotors. The Nissan calipers have a handbrake. I also used swift GTi handbrake cable and lever to complete the setup. Works great, handbrake actually holds on hills etc.

Image

I have since swapped the calipers over to get the handbrake cable on top and out of harms way.

The cables have to go through the floor and the the lever is mounted inside which makes it easier to adjust.
The mounts for the calipers I had made for about $100 the pair, they are 10mm thick steel and set the calipers on the rotors just right.

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Last edited by Munster on Sun Jun 12, 2011 10:59 pm, edited 1 time in total.
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Post Posted: Sun Jun 12, 2011 10:54 pm 
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Munster wrote:
I used R31 Skyline calipers with Sierra rotors. The Nissan calipers have a handbrake. I also used swift GTi handbrake cable and lever to complete the setup. Works great, handbrake actually holds on hills etc.


Have you got any pics of your cable setup? I have the same calipers and had the stock cable modified to suit the Nissan calipers.

It would be nice if there was a cheaper option like yours!!!

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