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Post Posted: Tue Jun 14, 2011 1:53 am 
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OK, im looking into the possibilities of running boosted brakes on the LJ50.

Im currently hunting around for an electric vacuum pump to run the booster as the 2 stroke wont have enough manifold vacuum to run a booster.

My question is this. how much vacuum is needed to run a sierra booster?

Does any one have any sources of vacuum pumps that i might be able to pick up cheep.

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Post Posted: Tue Jun 14, 2011 1:54 am 
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The only thing i can think of is the vac pumps on the diesel altenators.

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Post Posted: Tue Jun 14, 2011 2:01 am 
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20in.hg should be plenty

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Post Posted: Tue Jun 14, 2011 2:14 am 
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i assume its possible to have too much vacuum?

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Post Posted: Tue Jun 14, 2011 2:18 am 
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I guess eventually the booster might crumple :)

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Post Posted: Tue Jun 14, 2011 2:21 am 
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Do you recon a Baleno motor will suck enough for a 60' cruiser booster? (Not sure on technical air volumes :oops: )

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Post Posted: Tue Jun 14, 2011 2:26 am 
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yeah, vacuum isnt really a measure of flow
an extra tank and check valve will cover it well enough either way

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Post Posted: Tue Jun 14, 2011 2:31 am 
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i have a alternator with vac pump on it if anyone wants to try it out. actually the dump is full of them.

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Post Posted: Tue Jun 14, 2011 2:32 am 
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electronic will be best for the 50 i reckon so it doesnt have to turn the extra alt

thoughts on something like this?

http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/Cummins-Dies ... 35b0e7c90e

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Post Posted: Tue Jun 14, 2011 2:35 am 
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Ok i will look into it more.

Mate runs a lux vac pump with 80'cruiser booster and master in his lux. 80' diffs, He can run out of brakes and the light comes on on the dash with a few pumps of the brake.. He thinks it might be the smaller pump, But could be another problem..

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Post Posted: Tue Jun 14, 2011 2:41 am 
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idling or driving?
you can make a lot of carby engines die pumping the pedal at idle too

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Post Posted: Tue Jun 14, 2011 2:45 am 
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or maybe this

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/electric ... 35b2cae733

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Post Posted: Tue Jun 14, 2011 2:54 am 
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royce wrote:
idling or driving?
you can make a lot of carby engines die pumping the pedal at idle too


2.8td driving :?
Should sort itself out with the 5Lv8 he wants to put in it :lol:

Sorry Tanshi. :oops:

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Post Posted: Tue Jun 14, 2011 3:09 am 
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tanshi wrote:


would it need a accumulator as well?

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Post Posted: Tue Jun 14, 2011 3:14 am 
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shep wrote:
tanshi wrote:


would it need a accumulator as well?


Not sure, whats one do?



all good blue, it was related tech.

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Post Posted: Tue Jun 14, 2011 3:21 am 
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it is like a air tank for a vacuum. most diesels have one.

if bluesuzys mate removed the accumulator when he fitted the 60series
booster then that will be what is causing his issue

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Post Posted: Tue Jun 14, 2011 3:26 am 
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shep wrote:
it is like a air tank for a vacuum. most diesels have one.

if bluesuzys mate removed the accumulator when he fitted the 60series
booster then that will be what is causing his issue


So its a vacuum tank to keep the vacuum constant? when braking multiple times. Got it

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Post Posted: Tue Jun 14, 2011 3:30 am 
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Image
Cruise control Vacuum accumulator tank - For use in cruise installations where the vacuum source varies or is weak.

So some thing like this would probably work.

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Post Posted: Tue Jun 14, 2011 3:55 am 
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you are in brisbane ? i can drop one off for ya in a fortnight. mitsubishi have
tough plastic ones that make there front diffs work.

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Post Posted: Tue Jun 14, 2011 4:00 am 
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yeah im in brisbane.

That sounds great, PM me :)

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Post Posted: Tue Jun 14, 2011 8:42 am 
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tanshi wrote:
OK, im looking into the possibilities of running boosted brakes on the LJ50.

My question is this. how much vacuum is needed to run a sierra booster?


Another problem with the LJ50 (you might have already spotted this) is the location of the brake pedal. It is very close in the engine bay to the inner guard, with it's vertical square corner. Unless you plan to re-arrange the pedals to Acc-Clutch-Brake, or even using an LJ80 inner guard, which is cut away, it doesn't give much clearance from the centreline of the pedal to clear a 190mm brake booster (Sierra). You can cut away and box the guard and relocate the oiltank, but you lose support for the guard on the firewall. One option is to use a Swift booster at 160mm, which although has a smaller diaphragm surface area and therefore less brake assistance, still provides enough for a small LJ. The Swift booster will still require slight clearancing on an LJ50 guard, but not on an LJ80.

You can use the Swift booster with either the Swift Master Cylinder or the Sierra one, both are set up for Disc fronts. The Swift M/C has the line outlets on the R side, so a bit of plumbing work might be in order.

Both Boosters will still require the same amount of vacuum to function.


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Post Posted: Tue Jun 14, 2011 10:57 am 
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thanks 303,

i gonsidered just running a larger master cyl, un boosted so we will see what comes of it

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Post Posted: Tue Jun 14, 2011 11:11 am 
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Hey mate, not sure if you've come across this but thought i'd link it anyway. Pays to read through it though coz theres some things to look out for which are mentioned right at the end of the write up

http://www.lj10.com/howto/discbrakes/

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Post Posted: Tue Jun 14, 2011 11:14 am 
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your 2 stroke should have shit loads of vacuum for a booster.
what about a remote booster like HR holdens and the like used
http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/HOLDEN-EH-HR ... 2c5d511470

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Post Posted: Tue Jun 14, 2011 11:16 am 
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Hey mate, not sure if you've come across this but thought i'd link it anyway. Pays to read through it though coz theres some things to look out for which are mentioned right at the end of the write up

http://www.lj10.com/howto/discbrakes/

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Post Posted: Wed Jun 15, 2011 2:25 am 
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tanshi wrote:
yeah im in brisbane.

That sounds great, PM me :)


got ya a hzj75 accumulator pm me ya phone number and i will give ya a call when i get to QLD

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