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Post Posted: Wed Jun 22, 2011 10:52 am 
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I wanna get my intake manifold looking tops while it's still off - a 1/2 hour scrub with a toothbrush and degreaser was an improvement, but still a heap of rusty scale and buildup I can't get off the internal walls.

I got no idea how they do it or where they do it, but I know old stuff can turn new looking somehow... any tips?

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Post Posted: Wed Jun 22, 2011 10:54 am 
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head shop, acid bath

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Post Posted: Wed Jun 22, 2011 10:55 am 
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acid
or get a life :wink:

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Post Posted: Wed Jun 22, 2011 12:14 pm 
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or or or.....

take acid

that'll improve your opinion of how it looks...

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Post Posted: Wed Jun 22, 2011 12:35 pm 
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coke maybe

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Post Posted: Wed Jun 22, 2011 12:59 pm 
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ajsr wrote:
acid
or get a life :wink:


Paint it with roller.

Farout your picky.

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Post Posted: Wed Jun 22, 2011 12:59 pm 
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all the cool kids are candy flippin' these day, nothing like trippin' off you guts on acid while at the same time loving life pillin' off you face.... so many mixed feelings 8O :rofl:

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Post Posted: Wed Jun 22, 2011 1:14 pm 
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Ha ha, i'm picky alright. Minimum effort isn't my style. I'll go on an acid trip tomorrow - hopefully I don't end up having sex with it.

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Post Posted: Wed Jun 22, 2011 1:15 pm 
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I've been there.....

It was a dark time for me...

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Post Posted: Wed Jun 22, 2011 1:17 pm 
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dishwasher

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Post Posted: Wed Jun 22, 2011 1:20 pm 
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johnguy wrote:
I've been there.....

It was a dark time for me...


what, inside the parts washer? yep, it's pretty dark in there.... :lol:

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Post Posted: Wed Jun 22, 2011 1:22 pm 
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^^^ Goal! Can't hurt to try anyway

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Post Posted: Wed Jun 22, 2011 1:23 pm 
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I mean the dishwasher 8O

Good idea Ball 8)

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Post Posted: Wed Jun 22, 2011 1:29 pm 
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either way, whatever you clean off the inside is going to start rusting instantly as soon as you take it out of whatever cleaning process you use...

that aside though, go to an electroplating place, they have awesome acid baths =) if you're lucky they can squeeze it onto the end of a plating job and you can get super shined.

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Post Posted: Wed Jun 22, 2011 1:33 pm 
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alien wrote:
either way, whatever you clean off the inside is going to start rusting instantly as soon as you take it out of whatever cleaning process you use...

that aside though, go to an electroplating place, they have awesome acid baths =) if you're lucky they can squeeze it onto the end of a plating job and you can get super shined.


:helloo: better call suzukistore to see what metal suzuki used to manufacture their inlet manifolds from :finger:









































cast alloy doesn't really rust, but it does corrode.

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Post Posted: Wed Jun 22, 2011 1:40 pm 
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Quote:
rust (rst)
n.
- Any of various metallic coatings, especially oxides, formed by corrosion.
- To become corroded


of which electroplating will fix.

stfu.

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Post Posted: Wed Jun 22, 2011 1:56 pm 
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my point was alloy's wont start rusting "instantly" as you stated, unlike steel.

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Post Posted: Wed Jun 22, 2011 2:00 pm 
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Che

Regardless of if you acid dip it and get the alloy clean it will still gunge up again from oxidation. Easiest and cheapest way would be to just clean it up best you can, rub it down with wax and grease remover and spray it with an aluminium engine paint outta the can.

This is what I do with most of my alloy parts to keep them looking good and at least you can wash the muck of them after this with ease.

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Post Posted: Wed Jun 22, 2011 2:03 pm 
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if your using your dishwasher, use finish powerballs (the brand). my bro is a mechanic and builds showcars thats what they use. because the finish powerballs are caustic (i think thats how u spell it). then smash some heat proof silver paint over it. hahaha he told me to tell u this
good luck



he also tells me to warn u to check your instruction manual for the dishwasher. some dishwashers have a hot wash cycle, cold rinse cycle and then a hot dry cycle. this can effect the tempering of some parts and make the brittle.

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Last edited by SSSIERA on Wed Jun 22, 2011 2:05 pm, edited 1 time in total.
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Post Posted: Wed Jun 22, 2011 2:04 pm 
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I want it looking the same as my recon dizzy, my new impco carb, and my future 1.6 sitting in the racks at Suzistore.

I don't want it looking 1/2 OK when it gets installed, I want it looking shit hot. I want to open my bonnet next to a V8 wankmobile and say 'yours is shit, mine is unreal because it's more shinier'.


Sick of the current oil eating, compression losing, smoke bellowing, fume choking, misfire banging, ping rattling, black and sticky, broken valved POS motor I get to feed every week with $10 of Magnatec. I want nice for a change.

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Post Posted: Wed Jun 22, 2011 2:10 pm 
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atari4x4 wrote:
my point was alloy's wont start rusting "instantly" as you stated, unlike steel.


of course it starts instantly... thats like saying a dead person doesnt start decomposing instantly - just cos the dead bastard doesn't stink doesnt mean he isnt starting to rot away.

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Post Posted: Wed Jun 22, 2011 2:17 pm 
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alien wrote:
atari4x4 wrote:
my point was alloy's wont start rusting "instantly" as you stated, unlike steel.


of course it starts instantly... thats like saying a dead person doesnt start decomposing instantly - just cos the dead bastard doesn't stink doesnt mean he isnt starting to rot away.


what about a dead man in a freezer? :lol:

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Post Posted: Wed Jun 22, 2011 2:30 pm 
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chemistry lesson 101
aluminium is actualy one of the fastest corroding metals in the periodic table
though unlike other metals this corrosion is able to be used as an advangate rather than a hinderens as in most cases.
it corodes so quick that u dont actualy see it and the surface u do see is infact aluminium oxide unlike rust it has very strong bonds between the aluminium and the oxegen atoms. what this means is that the aluminium oxide creates a protective coating all over the surface of the aluminium. kinda like zinc coating metal. this is why it is so difficult to weld aluminium (one of the reasons) because you must have enough power to burn through the oxide coating and into the aluminium itself, enough gas to stop the corosion process (to insulate it from the oxegen) but not so much power that you will burn through the soft meterial and create holes.

soz if i am teaching my grandmother to suck eggs hahah but though i would share for those who dont no

PS this is why it is so good for little dingys (them little boats)

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Post Posted: Wed Jun 22, 2011 3:28 pm 
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Bead blast it will work really good and then spray it with clear coat.

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Post Posted: Wed Jun 22, 2011 7:07 pm 
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atari4x4 wrote:
alien wrote:
atari4x4 wrote:
my point was alloy's wont start rusting "instantly" as you stated, unlike steel.


of course it starts instantly... thats like saying a dead person doesnt start decomposing instantly - just cos the dead bastard doesn't stink doesnt mean he isnt starting to rot away.


what about a dead man in a freezer? :lol:
:rofl:

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Post Posted: Wed Jun 22, 2011 7:10 pm 
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Dremel with a polishing bit, some cutting compound ( not polish cutting compound)

Be careful with acid. HCL will dissolve alloy quickly. Maybe try some weak acids first like citric acid ( citra force degreaser straight)

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Post Posted: Wed Jun 22, 2011 8:45 pm 
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royce wrote:
head shop, acid bath


All you 2 bit experts that have likely never looked inside an engine make me sad and should just shut the fuck up

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Post Posted: Wed Jun 22, 2011 9:30 pm 
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Woolies home brand over cleaner works as well. Make sure it is the non caustic one.

I have spent years trying to find something that gets kart engine cases clean and the oven cleaner works the best.

I wouldn't be using acid or caustic on anything that has machined surfaces.

If that doesn't work then mechanical cleaning is your next option. Find someone that has a wet bead blaster. It gives a finer finish. There are other blast media mixes you could try in a bead blaster but most places won't be interested in adding stuff to their abrasives to make it cut less and polish more.

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Post Posted: Wed Jun 22, 2011 10:28 pm 
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Crazy clarks sells a degreaser thats like oven cleaner, awesome at $2 a tin

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Post Posted: Thu Jun 23, 2011 12:18 am 
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ball wrote:
Woolies home brand over cleaner works as well. Make sure it is the non caustic one.

I have spent years trying to find something that gets kart engine cases clean and the oven cleaner works the best.

I wouldn't be using acid or caustic on anything that has machined surfaces.

If that doesn't work then mechanical cleaning is your next option. Find someone that has a wet bead blaster. It gives a finer finish. There are other blast media mixes you could try in a bead blaster but most places won't be interested in adding stuff to their abrasives to make it cut less and polish more.


Yea ive had success in the past with this method tho it took a while to find a cleaner that worked super-well and just didn't turn the parts grey!

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