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Post Posted: Thu Jun 23, 2011 10:27 am 
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monkey wrote:
matt91112011 wrote:
Hi guys,

In my old 4Runner I replaced the standard Halogens with Phillips 50+ Halogen globes which was a good upgrade, then I changed them to a set of HID's a few months later, and omg!!! They we're so much better. Worked offroad all the time, never had any problems.

When I rolled that car I put the HID's in my dads GU Patrol, and I noticed that when you used his halogen spotties, both sort of cancelled each other out.

So when I bought my Vit, I bought a set of 45W HID spotties and a set of 55W HID's to replace my standard globes, difference is amazing. Everything is so much clearer and easier to see, and if you aim them right down you won't annoy anyone. But they are illegal, or at least in VIC they are.

So my two points are:

HID's don't work as well if used with Halogen spotties

HID's produce clearer brighter light than anything else currently on the market.

Cheers

Matty


I tend to disagree with you on that! I have HID's in my jimny with 2 spotties(non-spread) the HID's cover the width on high beam, while the spotties give the distance so i think they balanced each other out rather well JMO.


Hey Monkey could you post up a snap of you HID's, against a target, so we can see how good they are?

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Post Posted: Thu Jun 23, 2011 10:30 am 
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Moag wrote:
monkey wrote:
matt91112011 wrote:
Hi guys,

In my old 4Runner I replaced the standard Halogens with Phillips 50+ Halogen globes which was a good upgrade, then I changed them to a set of HID's a few months later, and omg!!! They we're so much better. Worked offroad all the time, never had any problems.

When I rolled that car I put the HID's in my dads GU Patrol, and I noticed that when you used his halogen spotties, both sort of cancelled each other out.

So when I bought my Vit, I bought a set of 45W HID spotties and a set of 55W HID's to replace my standard globes, difference is amazing. Everything is so much clearer and easier to see, and if you aim them right down you won't annoy anyone. But they are illegal, or at least in VIC they are.

So my two points are:

HID's don't work as well if used with Halogen spotties

HID's produce clearer brighter light than anything else currently on the market.

Cheers

Matty


I tend to disagree with you on that! I have HID's in my jimny with 2 spotties(non-spread) the HID's cover the width on high beam, while the spotties give the distance so i think they balanced each other out rather well JMO.


Hey Monkey could you post up a snap of you HID's, against a target, so we can see how good they are?


Is on a flat wall ok? and at what distance?

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Post Posted: Thu Jun 23, 2011 10:35 am 
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10 meters mate. Low beam then High beam would be great.

Image

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Post Posted: Thu Jun 23, 2011 10:36 am 
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Do i have to mark the 2 points?

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Post Posted: Thu Jun 23, 2011 10:42 am 
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No not really unless you want them aimed.

if you do the red crosses are about 130mm down from the centre of your lights (little square on your lens.

Like this:
Image


More interested in the light pattern.

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Post Posted: Thu Jun 23, 2011 11:06 am 
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pics uploading...

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Post Posted: Thu Jun 23, 2011 11:23 am 
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Low beam

Image

High beam

Image

High beam with helagon spot lights
Image

Low beam(no wall)

Image

High beam(no wall)

Image

High Beam with spot (no wall) These are really bad pics, the one with out walls, cus these were taken in the suburbs( street lights around), i will go for a drive to a dark road tomorrow night and get some better pics, with out walls.

Image And i;m out of focus on my camera :oops:

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Post Posted: Thu Jun 23, 2011 11:30 am 
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Cheers Monkey, a tripod or rolled up towel and self timer helps.

Using Manual shutter, aperture and setting colour temp to daylight can give a better comparison.

What camera were you using?

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Post Posted: Thu Jun 23, 2011 11:34 am 
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Moag wrote:
Cheers Monkey, a tripod or rolled up towel and self timer helps.

Using Manual shutter, aperture and setting colour temp to daylight can give a better comparison.

What camera were you using?


Sony cyber shot, was on special for $70 :roll:

Remind me to get some better pics tomorrow. What sort of setting should i have the camera on?

Also i think my passenger side light is out of adjustment, i think it needs to come up a bit, dad moved it when i put my first set of globes in last year, he thought you had to take the whole housing out to change a globe :crazy:

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Post Posted: Thu Jun 23, 2011 12:04 pm 
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Good pickup they're all that you really need unless your doing massive prints.

Real comparisons are hard to do from different cameras and you can make a pissy little light look bright if your exposure is long enough.
I use the preview and the histogram to try and get it as close to what I'm seeing first and stick to that exposure.
In my case I needed to drop it down because of the brightness of the LED.
A cameras light balance (colour temp) if set to daylight makes Halogan look red orange (the human eye compensates to make it look whiter)
while any thing above daylight colour temp (about above 6000) looks blueish.
Human eyes don't like blue light - its sort of like staring at the sun while your eyes cope better with reddish light at night better.

Don't think this is a good explanation!!!

Maybe pull the plug on each light in turn to make it easier.

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Post Posted: Thu Jun 23, 2011 12:07 pm 
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Oh it is easier to aim your lights if you unplug each in turn. :helloo:

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Post Posted: Thu Jun 23, 2011 12:08 pm 
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Moag wrote:
Good pickup they're all that you really need unless your doing massive prints.

Real comparisons are hard to do from different cameras and you can make a pissy little light look bright if your exposure is long enough.
I use the preview and the histogram to try and get it as close to what I'm seeing first and stick to that exposure.
In my case I needed to drop it down because of the brightness of the LED.
A cameras light balance (colour temp) if set to daylight makes Halogan look red orange (the human eye compensates to make it look whiter)
while any thing above daylight colour temp (about above 6000) looks blueish.
Human eyes don't like blue light - its sort of like staring at the sun while your eyes cope better with reddish light at night better.

Don't think this is a good explanation!!!

Maybe pull the plug on each light in turn to make it easier.


That;s makes sense, i will have a bit of a play around with it later and try make it as close as to what i am seeing. :roll:

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Post Posted: Thu Jun 23, 2011 12:16 pm 
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monkey wrote:
Moag wrote:
Good pickup they're all that you really need unless your doing massive prints.

Real comparisons are hard to do from different cameras and you can make a pissy little light look bright if your exposure is long enough.
I use the preview and the histogram to try and get it as close to what I'm seeing first and stick to that exposure.
In my case I needed to drop it down because of the brightness of the LED.
A cameras light balance (colour temp) if set to daylight makes Halogan look red orange (the human eye compensates to make it look whiter)
while any thing above daylight colour temp (about above 6000) looks blueish.
Human eyes don't like blue light - its sort of like staring at the sun while your eyes cope better with reddish light at night better.

Don't think this is a good explanation!!!

Maybe pull the plug on each light in turn to make it easier.


That;s makes sense, i will have a bit of a play around with it later and try make it as close as to what i am seeing. :roll:


random fact... The human eye can distinguish about 10 million different colors.

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Post Posted: Thu Jun 23, 2011 12:22 pm 
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Maybe a better solution would be, to get a mob of Jimny's together with different light sett ups. Aim them to specs and use a fixed camera on a tripod, same exposure and same target for a realistic comparison.

Just an idea.

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Post Posted: Thu Jun 23, 2011 12:24 pm 
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atari4x4 wrote:
monkey wrote:
Moag wrote:
Good pickup they're all that you really need unless your doing massive prints.

Real comparisons are hard to do from different cameras and you can make a pissy little light look bright if your exposure is long enough.
I use the preview and the histogram to try and get it as close to what I'm seeing first and stick to that exposure.
In my case I needed to drop it down because of the brightness of the LED.
A cameras light balance (colour temp) if set to daylight makes Halogan look red orange (the human eye compensates to make it look whiter)
while any thing above daylight colour temp (about above 6000) looks blueish.
Human eyes don't like blue light - its sort of like staring at the sun while your eyes cope better with reddish light at night better.

Don't think this is a good explanation!!!

Maybe pull the plug on each light in turn to make it easier.


That;s makes sense, i will have a bit of a play around with it later and try make it as close as to what i am seeing. :roll:


random fact... The human eye can distinguish about 10 million different colors.


Awesome hey 8O :D

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Post Posted: Thu Jun 23, 2011 12:24 pm 
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Moag wrote:
Maybe a better solution would be, to get a mob of Jimny's together with different light sett ups. Aim them to specs and use a fixed camera on a tripod, same exposure and same target for a realistic comparison.

Just an idea.



You should come for a drive then, i'll meet you 1/3 of the way :wink:

But i do think that is a great idea.

It would be good to see HID's vs one of royce's head light loom upgrades vs a standard wiring loom.

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Post Posted: Thu Jun 23, 2011 12:36 pm 
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Bingo!!!! pompoms

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Post Posted: Mon Oct 10, 2011 8:45 am 
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monkey wrote:
Moag wrote:
Maybe a better solution would be, to get a mob of Jimny's together with different light sett ups. Aim them to specs and use a fixed camera on a tripod, same exposure and same target for a realistic comparison.

Just an idea.



You should come for a drive then, i'll meet you 1/3 of the way :wink:

But i do think that is a great idea.

It would be good to see HID's vs one of royce's head light loom upgrades vs a standard wiring loom.


Has the comparing been done yet, thinking of getting HID's for my sierra

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