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Post Posted: Thu May 19, 2011 10:38 am 
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Built4thrashing wrote:
just to confuse you a bit but i have found lipped and un-lipped geats in sierra fronts and in Vit diffs. doesnt seem to be any patern to where they wer used.


Agreed....

So if this is the case, then lipped or un-lipped side gears should still work OK for Auto Lockers then ???

Just a bit worried with what B4T said in regards to "rattles a bit in the lockright"

Surely this shouldn't be a problem as the 1512 Autolocker which is listed on the lowrange website for the Vitara REARS appears to be exactly the same as the 1510 yet the Vitara Rear Diff's that I've come across all have that lip around the edge....

The responses I've got from lowrange and Trailtough both indicate that there is no real difference between the 1510 and 1512.... so if this is true, why sell the 1512 as its dearer ??

Has anybody had any experience with the 1512 & 1510 hands on in comparing them ??

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Post Posted: Thu May 19, 2011 11:42 am 
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Ive had both. no difference. the more common 1510 kit is cheaper coz they sell more. volume sellers are often cheaper.

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Post Posted: Thu May 19, 2011 12:45 pm 
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How do i tell if i have a 10 or 12 bold diff? do have to pull it out? I have a 94 SWB cabie vitara

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Post Posted: Thu May 19, 2011 8:05 pm 
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Ashley wrote:
How do i tell if i have a 10 or 12 bold diff? do have to pull it out? I have a 94 SWB cabie vitara


Your Front will be a 10bolt

Your Rear will more than likely be a 10bolt as well being a SWB.... especially if its a carby engine. This is what I've found, but others may know more :wink:

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Post Posted: Thu May 19, 2011 8:10 pm 
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Built4thrashing wrote:
Ive had both. no difference. the more common 1510 kit is cheaper coz they sell more. volume sellers are often cheaper.


Ok... That sounds reasonable :wink:

What about Strength ??? Being a single Pin Diff (1 long Pin) on a Car that has Reduction Gears.... Will this still be strong enough (ie not break)


below is an email from lowrangeoffroad in regards to using the 1510 in the front of the vitara


Quote:
Low Range Off-Road to me

show details 01:51 (4 hours ago)

We will have some tomorrow.

It should work......just weaker with only 1 pin.

Sean

- Show quoted text -

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Post Posted: Thu May 19, 2011 10:29 pm 
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Pj had one in his sierra with the single pin and never had any strength problems and he ran a Baleno 1.6 with 6.5gears.

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Post Posted: Mon May 23, 2011 10:16 am 
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Guys....

Q1. After some info regarding 2PIN & 4PIN Carriers in the Suzuki Diffs. I've been told that NT Sierra's have a 4PIN Diff's Front and back & that the rear is 26spline and the Front are 22spline Axles..... whereas the WT are suppose to be 26spline Front & Rear but have a 4PIN carrier in the rear & only a 2PIN Diff Carrier in the Front..... is this correct ???

Q2. Are all 4-PIN carriers 12bolt R&P and all 2-PIN Carriers 10bolt R&P ???

Q3. If the above Q2 is not correct and u can get a 4-PIN Carrier 10bolt R&P, can u then put this 4PIN Carrier/10bolt R&P into a 2PIN Carrier/10bolt R&P ??? ..... in other words, can u put a 4PIN Carrier (10bolt R&P) in the front of a Vitara Diff Housing/3rd Member ??? (Geez... I hope that makes sense.... )

From what u guys have said here that u can put the 1510 in the front of a Vitara, but u just have to leave out the 2 small pins supplied.... but, me being a bit curious, can u put a 4PIN Carrier (10bolt R&P) in the front of a Vitara Diff Housing/3rd Member ???

just curious as to whether this is possible or not...... :wink:

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Post Posted: Wed May 25, 2011 5:39 pm 
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Well......

Did the deed and placed an order for 2x 1510 Lockrights for the Vitara.... Now just the waiting game.....
Hopefully I've sourced some Front(22) & Rear(26) Sierra Sidegears as well... when they arrive :wink:

Is there a notiable difference in operation between lockrights with and w/o couplers ??

Currently, I've got a old 2nd hand Lockright with couplers in th rear and even though it works OK & everything, if u forget u have it in the rear it can catch u offguard and that's when it's a bit of a PITA. Going up windy mountain roads can also be interesting... so I found out.... but its the slow driving in & out of carparks that probably is the most frustrating....

Will the ones w/o couplers dis-engage more readily in & out of carparks, etc???

rob

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Post Posted: Wed May 25, 2011 10:15 pm 
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My vit has a rear lock right without couplers.
Can't feel anything in car parks, unless you boot it hard.
Winding mountain roads are no problem either, unless you boot it hard.
I can hear a ticking clicking if I hang head out of the window,
has never clunked in the rear.

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Post Posted: Wed May 25, 2011 11:57 pm 
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Cool.... That's what I wanted to hear :D

Looking forward to getting & installing them now....

Any Tips that I need to know that's NOT in the Install Manual ??


christover1 wrote:
My vit has a rear lock right without couplers.
Can't feel anything in car parks, unless you boot it hard.
Winding mountain roads are no problem either, unless you boot it hard.
I can hear a ticking clicking if I hang head out of the window,
has never clunked in the rear.

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Post Posted: Thu May 26, 2011 1:57 am 
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I didn't instal my rear, it was already fitted.
I did work on it, but just put it all back as it was.

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Post Posted: Fri May 27, 2011 1:55 am 
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Built4thrashing wrote:
I know for a fact you can install a 1510 Sierra lockright into a Vitara 10 bolt ctr. I did it and then fitted that to a steel carrier and that into my GV steel diff. The only differences between the 1510 and 1512 lockrights is you get the cross pins with the 1510.

1510 = $199US plus post ... about $230 AUD posted
1512 = $249US plus post ... about $280 AUD posted

thats with our current exchange rate and paypal exchange fees.




Where was this from????

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Post Posted: Fri May 27, 2011 3:19 am 
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I just purchased mine from Low Range OffRoad in the US.

They list the 1510 for $209US & with the exchange rate I've got 2 for $460AUD delivered ($230 x 2 incl'ing shipping)

rob



koozers wrote:
Built4thrashing wrote:
I know for a fact you can install a 1510 Sierra lockright into a Vitara 10 bolt ctr. I did it and then fitted that to a steel carrier and that into my GV steel diff. The only differences between the 1510 and 1512 lockrights is you get the cross pins with the 1510.

1510 = $199US plus post ... about $230 AUD posted
1512 = $249US plus post ... about $280 AUD posted

thats with our current exchange rate and paypal exchange fees.




Where was this from????

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Post Posted: Fri May 27, 2011 10:30 am 
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koozers wrote:
Built4thrashing wrote:
I know for a fact you can install a 1510 Sierra lockright into a Vitara 10 bolt ctr. I did it and then fitted that to a steel carrier and that into my GV steel diff. The only differences between the 1510 and 1512 lockrights is you get the cross pins with the 1510.

1510 = $199US plus post ... about $230 AUD posted
1512 = $249US plus post ... about $280 AUD posted

thats with our current exchange rate and paypal exchange fees.




Where was this from????


Rocky Road ( http://www.rocky-road.com/zuklock.html )
1510 for $199
1512 at $260

Lowrange http://www.lowrangeoffroad.com/
1510 = $209
1512 = $249

roadless gear http://www.roadlessgear.com/page/RGL/PROD/D/LR100
1510 = $199
1512 = $239

hope that helps.

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Post Posted: Sat Jun 11, 2011 8:22 am 
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OK...

I'm in the process of installing my 1510's into the Front of my Vitara. I gather I just re-use my existing LONG Pin + I gather I also leave out those Spacers that came with it as my front Diff only has the single long Pin and if I put those Spacers in they just rattle around and don't do anything as far as I can see.....

rob

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Post Posted: Sat Jun 11, 2011 2:42 pm 
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Fit the spacers, they are what keeps the couplers in place

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Post Posted: Sat Jun 11, 2011 9:19 pm 
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gregdixon wrote:
Fit the spacers, they are what keeps the couplers in place


Not using couplers, only using side gears.

The problem being is when I fit the spacers and once assemby is complete, if I pick up the carrier and shake it around, u can hear the spacers flopping around inside because being a 2PIN diff, there's nothing supporting them. They just rattle between hitting the Single Pin and the Sidegear (if u know what I mean). It's a bit different with the 4PIN diffs as u have the Square PIN Shaft Holder where the long Pin sides through & the 2 short Pins are held in place by this square Pin support (not on proper name).

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Post Posted: Sun Jun 12, 2011 5:56 am 
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Giving this a bit more thought..... The Front 2PIN diffs don't come with a Pinion Shaft Block like the 4-PIN Diffs and this Pinion Shaft Block is what the Spacer that comes with the Lockright rests against.
Now from what I can workout, this spacer is an inportant part in the workings of the Locker in the fact that it helps in the dis-engaging or unlocking process. Without this "Pinion Shaft Block", the Spacer has nothing to rest against & therefore won't help in the unlocking process.

Just wondering if I'm understanding things correctly and if anyone has installed the 1510 into a 2PIN Diff b4 and what they did and how they did it (what parts did they use or leave out)???

rob

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Post Posted: Sun Jun 12, 2011 6:57 am 
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Just watched a video on Youtube and it looks like I definitely need to install the spacer along the Pinion Shaft Block for the Lockright to work properly....as the spacer is what helps unlock the Auto-Locker.

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Post Posted: Sun Jun 12, 2011 10:46 am 
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That's correct, I installed my pinion block, into my 2 pin front diff.
If you haven't got one, or cant get one easily, I will look for one to post.
On rare occassions they need a bit of sanding,
apparently some are thicker, but I have not seen that yet.

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Post Posted: Sun Jun 12, 2011 10:58 am 
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christover1 wrote:
That's correct, I installed my pinion block, into my 2 pin front diff.
If you haven't got one, or cant get one easily, I will look for one to post.
On rare occassions they need a bit of sanding,
apparently some are thicker, but I have not seen that yet.


That would great ;)

I've borrowed one and that one wouldn't fit w/o using a thinner Thrush Washer that fits onto the Side Gear..... When I used a thinner washer, it fitted smoothly, but there didn't appear to be any free play there at all.... How important is this freeplay between Pin block and spacer???

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Last edited by rob_macca67 on Sun Jun 12, 2011 11:59 am, edited 1 time in total.
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Post Posted: Sun Jun 12, 2011 11:12 am 
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I think the washer/spacer has the job of
stopping side gear from moving inwards,
so when the locker part moves in,
they stay separate for unlocking.
Otherwise it could stay locked.
So I would say no free play is what I think it should be,
but not tight

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Post Posted: Sun Jun 12, 2011 12:00 pm 
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christover1 wrote:
That's correct, I installed my pinion block, into my 2 pin front diff.
If you haven't got one, or cant get one easily, I will look for one to post.
On rare occassions they need a bit of sanding,
apparently some are thicker, but I have not seen that yet.


christover1 wrote:
I think the washer/spacer has the job of
stopping side gear from moving inwards,
so when the locker part moves in,
they stay separate for unlocking.
Otherwise it could stay locked.
So I would say no free play is what I think it should be,
but not tight


Oh OK.... so just using a thinner shim/washer would be OK then ....?

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Post Posted: Sun Jun 12, 2011 12:07 pm 
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rob_macca67 wrote:
christover1 wrote:
That's correct, I installed my pinion block, into my 2 pin front diff.
If you haven't got one, or cant get one easily, I will look for one to post.
On rare occassions they need a bit of sanding,
apparently some are thicker, but I have not seen that yet.


christover1 wrote:
I think the washer/spacer has the job of
stopping side gear from moving inwards,
so when the locker part moves in,
they stay separate for unlocking.
Otherwise it could stay locked.
So I would say no free play is what I think it should be,
but not tight


Oh OK.... so just using a thinner shim/washer would be OK then ....?


I can't see why not.
But my brain is foggy after a long day.
All the web pages I found said ok to shave pinion box,
that seems the same as shave the washers ?
But I fitted a Spartan, so not 100% sure lock rite is same.

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Post Posted: Fri Jun 24, 2011 1:38 pm 
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Ok..... I just completed installing a Auto Locker into the Front Steel Diff on my Vit and I've come across some things I wasn't aware of....
When I bought the steel diff it came with everything (ie:26spline axles). At the time I just installed 22spline axles as that is what I had....Now, upon installing the Front Auto Locker I decided to uprate to 26spline axles and when I went to install the LHS Long Axle, to my surprise it didn't go all the way in. I removed it and then compared it with the 22spline axle and noticed that the 26spline axle was some 7mm longer in length.... I had always thought that all LHS axles were the same length.... Obviously the Steel Diffs from GV's are different due to the different internal carrier & side gears....

A quick trip down to a mate's place and he graciously removed the 7mm via his lathe and it fitted perfectly..... I went for a quick drive around the paddock and up/down some banks and it performed perfectly.....but I will have to wait for awhile b4 I can test it out on the tracks......

Hopefully some helpful info for future reference:

1. a 4PIN Suzuki Sierra #1510 AutoLocker does fit into the Front of a 2PIN Vitara Diff
2. For installation, u need to source the Shaft Block (ie: small block that the Pins slide through in a 4PIN Diff) that u find in the 4PIN Diffs as this is a important part in making the locker work at all.
3. The Auto locker will work using either Sierra or Vitara Sidegears..... the only difference I found is that maybe the use of the Vitara sidegears results in a louder ratching noise from the diff.... but this maybe minimized by using a heavier grade of Diff oil ?.
4. If upgrading to 26spline axles, then u may have to shorten the LHS by some 7mm. {Not sure if the 26spline axles out of the later V6 Vitaras are any different in length but the GV ones are definitely longer}

Hope this helps someone in the future......

cheers...
rob

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Post Posted: Fri Jun 24, 2011 10:40 pm 
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Well done, you will love it.

Extra length may be why some have had to shave the pinion block thingy?
I used 22 spline stuff, cos I had lots of it.
Hopefully mine aint too short

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Post Posted: Fri Jun 24, 2011 11:10 pm 
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christover1 wrote:
Well done, you will love it.

Extra length may be why some have had to shave the pinion block thingy?
I used 22 spline stuff, cos I had lots of it.
Hopefully mine aint too short


Have u ever had any problems running the 22spline axles.

I twisted my RHS Axle off and that was w/o lockers

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Post Posted: Fri Jun 24, 2011 11:17 pm 
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rob_macca67 wrote:
christover1 wrote:
Well done, you will love it.

Extra length may be why some have had to shave the pinion block thingy?
I used 22 spline stuff, cos I had lots of it.
Hopefully mine aint too short


Have u ever had any problems running the 22spline axles.

I twisted my RHS Axle off and that was w/o lockers


No, but I haven't really had set up long enough to judge.
Hopefully be ok, don't want to have to make a new stubby axle.

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Post Posted: Sun Jun 26, 2011 11:17 am 
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Well....

went out today to Glasshouse today to try out the lockers.... all I can say is AWESOME

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Post Posted: Sun Jun 26, 2011 11:19 am 
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rob_macca67 wrote:
Well....

went out today to Glasshouse today to try out the lockers.... all I can say is AWESOME


Armsup :woohoo: yess!!

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