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Post Posted: Sat Jul 09, 2011 10:01 pm 
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can anyone tell me what cars came out with a electronic dizzy that will bolt into an f10a?
I fugure the the more cars I have to choose from the cheaper I should be able to find one.
Thanks in advance. Joe

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Post Posted: Sat Jul 09, 2011 10:32 pm 
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G13 Sierra dissy bolts straight in.
I have a few here.

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Post Posted: Sat Jul 09, 2011 10:46 pm 
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want33s wrote:
G13 Sierra dissy bolts straight in.
I have a few here.


How much am I up for?

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Post Posted: Sun Jul 10, 2011 9:02 am 
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joe5701 wrote:
want33s wrote:
G13 Sierra dissy bolts straight in.
I have a few here.


How much am I up for?


Cheaper than a good set of feeler gauge, can't go wrong. f*$k the points.

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Post Posted: Sun Jul 10, 2011 11:40 am 
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Can you use the original coil if its the early one with a ballast resister? (lj80 with f10a engine) or do you need to get the sj414 coil?

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Post Posted: Sun Jul 10, 2011 8:14 pm 
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Rgonzobull wrote:
Can you use the original coil if its the early one with a ballast resister? (lj80 with f10a engine) or do you need to get the sj414 coil?

You remove the ballast resistor and run a Sierra coil.

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Post Posted: Sun Jul 10, 2011 9:24 pm 
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LJ10 link

have a read of this thread.

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Post Posted: Sun Jul 10, 2011 10:34 pm 
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Cheers for the link. Ive already posted on there to ask same question

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Post Posted: Sun Jul 10, 2011 10:54 pm 
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Is anything similar available for the G16A?

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Post Posted: Sun Jul 10, 2011 11:00 pm 
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Poita wrote:
Is anything similar available for the G16A?


The one thats already in it is a pretty good option

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Post Posted: Mon Jul 11, 2011 12:00 am 
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I have points in mine. Something without points would be nice!

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Post Posted: Mon Jul 11, 2011 12:09 am 
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I would love to see pics of this mystery dizzy, they have never made a 1.6 with points

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Post Posted: Mon Jul 11, 2011 12:36 am 
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Well I assume it has points, I have never looked.
I simply looked at the last service record from the mechanic just before I bought it... it says that he put new points and a dizzy cap on... sounds like he was ripping them off!

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Post Posted: Mon Jul 11, 2011 1:38 am 
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what's the issue with just running 12v to the module and keeping the 1.5ohm coil running through the ballast? I can't see it being a problem, It just mean's the module is grounding 8v instead of 12v is'nt it? what am I missing? :?

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Post Posted: Mon Jul 11, 2011 1:43 am 
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Coils arent coils, you need to run one designed for the charge and saturation rate of Reluctor ignition

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Post Posted: Mon Jul 11, 2011 2:13 am 
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Poita wrote:
Well I assume it has points, I have never looked.
I simply looked at the last service record from the mechanic just before I bought it... it says that he put new points and a dizzy cap on... sounds like he was ripping them off!


Pull the cap off and have a look, at a guess, id say, you went to dodgy brothers mechanical services ay.

EDIT, oops, they went not you.

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Last edited by SuziBlu on Mon Jul 11, 2011 2:25 am, edited 1 time in total.
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Post Posted: Mon Jul 11, 2011 2:24 am 
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Ooops, they went, not you

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Post Posted: Mon Jul 11, 2011 3:08 am 
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royce wrote:
Coils arent coils, you need to run one designed for the charge and saturation rate of Reluctor ignition

do you know the primary an secondary resistance of a coil to suit? I have a couple laying around I may be able to use. what will happen if I use the old coil through the ballast with electronic ignition?

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Post Posted: Mon Jul 11, 2011 3:13 am 
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Just get the sierra coil from the sierra you get the dissy from

the points one will work but whats the point of fitting the dizzy and leaving that there? its doing half a job

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Post Posted: Mon Jul 11, 2011 3:53 am 
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royce wrote:
Just get the sierra coil from the sierra you get the dissy from

the points one will work but whats the point of fitting the dizzy and leaving that there? its doing half a job

I'm getting the dizzy off want33s, so if I didnt need another coil and mine would do the job it just saves me some cash as theres nothing wrong with mine.

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Post Posted: Mon Jul 11, 2011 4:02 am 
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Coils are very cheap, second hand, even less.

A brand spankers will set u back less than a carton.

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Post Posted: Mon Jul 11, 2011 8:32 am 
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has anyone else swapped from points to electronic on a f10a that can tell me where I will have to run the vacuum advance from?
apparently it runs off the carb instead of manifold cause manifold vacuum is to high for the diaphram.
also can anyone tell me the primary resistance on a g13 coil?

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Post Posted: Mon Jul 11, 2011 8:37 am 
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I don't know of any vacuum ports on the 1 litre carby, theres only 1 I know of and it's on the top middle of the manifold.

keen to see if there's any difference in performance as I'd like to do this mod too.

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Post Posted: Mon Jul 11, 2011 8:44 am 
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mrw82 wrote:
I don't know of any vacuum ports on the 1 litre carby, theres only 1 I know of and it's on the top middle of the manifold.

keen to see if there's any difference in performance as I'd like to do this mod too.

Yep thats why i'm asking on the g13 carb it runs secondarys with a vac nipple in there somewhere which dosent suck as hard as the nipple on the manifold which gets full vac and holds the dizzy at full advance all the time.

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Post Posted: Mon Jul 11, 2011 8:47 am 
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keen to see if there's any difference in performance as I'd like to do this mod too.[/quote]
I dont think I'll get any more power out of it just a lot more reliable and not as much fucking around

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Post Posted: Mon Jul 11, 2011 10:22 am 
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joe5701 wrote:
has anyone else swapped from points to electronic on a f10a that can tell me where I will have to run the vacuum advance from?
apparently it runs off the carb instead of manifold cause manifold vacuum is to high for the diaphram.
also can anyone tell me the primary resistance on a g13 coil?

I rebuilt a 1.0 Sierra trayback engine a while ago.
I fitted a G13 electronic distributor to the F10A.
It didn't have a vacuum port above the butterfly for vacuum advance so I fitted a Carry carby that had it.
Worked great.
You can mod your stock F10A carby if you are careful. The hole/port has to be just above the butterfly when closed.

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Post Posted: Mon Jul 11, 2011 10:40 am 
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I rebuilt a 1.0 Sierra trayback engine a while ago.
I fitted a G13 electronic distributor to the F10A.
It didn't have a vacuum port above the butterfly for vacuum advance so I fitted a Carry carby that had it.
Worked great.
You can mod your stock F10A carby if you are careful. The hole/port has to be just above the butterfly when closed.[/quote]

thanks, I was starting to think down the lines of swaping the diaphram to something that will handle the vacuum.
If I can get away with drilling a hole in the carb without destroying it that'd be easyer.

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Post Posted: Sat Jul 16, 2011 8:43 am 
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threw the new dizzy in sarvo, quickly bodged the wires together, hit the key, and fired straight up :D . I'll hook it all up properly tomorrow time it and attack the carb

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Post Posted: Sat Jul 16, 2011 9:01 am 
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Or you can play with the mechanical advance weights bypassing the vacuum advance.

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Post Posted: Sat Jul 16, 2011 9:04 am 
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SuziBlu wrote:
Or you can play with the mechanical advance weights bypassing the vacuum advance.


And.................................?

How do you get it to advance the timing under low load and cruising conditions?

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