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Post Posted: Fri Jul 22, 2011 12:39 am 
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As some already know, I found milky oil in my engine just after a day.
The oil was very runny, so I guess it's quite a big leak.
Checked my head couldnt see any cracks.
Checked block between cylinders no cracks.
Head gasket looked fine to me.
Can you get a water/coolant leak if the head isn't tension enough?

Taking my head in for a pressure test today, so I'll fine out if it's a cracked head.
The engine only has 320k's on it since the rebuild
So how warped can the head be already?
Can't machine the head any more cos it's machine to the max it can go, before valve hits piston
What is the chance of being a cracked water jacket in the block
I dont mind if the head is cracked cos I've got another one, but the block is a worry
Hard to source out another g16 block.

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Post Posted: Fri Jul 22, 2011 2:48 am 
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Usually the head goes before the block.
If head bolts not tight will cause leak around gasket. See if head cracked then clean top block surface and put new head gasket on. Might also help to get head bolts too and check they not bottoming out in the block. Chuck one in the block all the way and measure compaired to where it sits in head.
Hopefully just you gasket was leaking.

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Post Posted: Fri Jul 22, 2011 2:49 am 
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did you retention the head after having it running for a while?

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Post Posted: Fri Jul 22, 2011 3:13 am 
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It was a 1000k retention gasket
Engine ran no more the 5mins
Went from clean oil to very running grey oil

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Post Posted: Fri Jul 22, 2011 4:15 am 
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What did you tension it with and to what torque?

If you only ran for 5mins to get that super milky oil it must be a pretty descent fault!

Sure you didn't try to top up the radiator by filling the rocker cover instead? :lol:

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Post Posted: Fri Jul 22, 2011 4:33 am 
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I used a torque rench and did it in three steps last one was 75.
I'm sure it was oil I used haha

Shop checking my head
There gonna check it by eye first to see if they can locate the crack, before I pay for pressure test and dementle fees

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Post Posted: Fri Jul 22, 2011 5:11 am 
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I wonder too if the head bolts are now too long, and bottoming out in the bolt. They may give just enough tension to torque down, but not enough to tighten the head.

Could it also be in intake manifold? Any water going down the cylinders from the intake might end up in the oil, especially if the rings have not bedded in yet.

The only way i have had a LOT of water dumped into the engine at any time has been a faulty, or mis-installed intake gasket.

Hope it helps, let us know what the cause is, you have me really curious.

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Post Posted: Fri Jul 22, 2011 5:35 am 
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The second head gasket I did, I snapped a head bolt
It was so tight and was no were near the torque specification so I kept going nd they snapped
Is there a difference in head bolts between the g16a carby and the g13a/ba

I will let you you no what the shop says

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Post Posted: Fri Jul 22, 2011 5:47 am 
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zooky08 wrote:
The second head gasket I did, I snapped a head bolt
It was so tight and was no were near the torque specification so I kept going nd they snapped
Is there a difference in head bolts between the g16a carby and the g13a/ba


I will let you you no what the shop says


This screams out suspect straight away! Pretty much what sky was talking about.

Also did you blow out the head bolt threads with compressed air or something to make sure there wasn't any liquids in them which could cause a hydro-lock and false torque readings?>

But then also, how can the bolts be 'soooo tight' but no where near the torque spec? You using the right scale/measurement on your wench? Is it of somewhat reliable quality/in spec?

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Post Posted: Fri Jul 22, 2011 8:37 am 
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JrZook wrote:
zooky08 wrote:
The second head gasket I did, I snapped a head bolt
It was so tight and was no were near the torque specification so I kept going nd they snapped
Is there a difference in head bolts between the g16a carby and the g13a/ba


I will let you you no what the shop says


This screams out suspect straight away! Pretty much what sky was talking about.

Also did you blow out the head bolt threads with compressed air or something to make sure there wasn't any liquids in them which could cause a hydro-lock and false torque readings?>

But then also, how can the bolts be 'soooo tight' but no where near the torque spec? You using the right scale/measurement on your wench? Is it of somewhat reliable quality/in spec?
the bolt was tight. way before the 75 mark, so I tried to keep going till the rench clicked for 75 but she just snapped the head of.
So I don't know
When I put the motor together I blew out the holes several times with compressed air

The rench is a kinchrome so I thought it was pretty reliable

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Post Posted: Mon Jul 25, 2011 4:34 am 
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Well my head is cracked :cry:
Dirty big crack in one of the water jackets around number 3

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Post Posted: Mon Jul 25, 2011 6:34 am 
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Bummer man sorry to hear about that. How hard are heads to chase up over there?

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Post Posted: Mon Jul 25, 2011 6:54 am 
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Pretty easy for me. I've got a choice of three here, but it's just the case of not getting another one that's cracked

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