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Post Posted: Fri Jul 22, 2011 8:06 am 
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i know im always asking about suspension but its because i dont know much about the stuff.
seeing as spoa is now unable to be enginered in qld im racking my brain on how to get better flex out of the old girl (sj50), my thoughts on how to improve what i have(2 inch lifted king springs starting to sag up front) is to open up the spring clamps because they are closed LROR doestech shocks(long ones) extended brake lines, extended shackles to fix the sag and a rear shock bar. i dont really like the idea of a ruf it sounds too far out of my welding capabilities(im a landscaper). So basically what im asking is will the things ive listed have a possitive or negative affect on flex i dont really car about how bad the ride is im no crippled old bastard yet. if anyone can make some suggestions that would be great.
thanks, Aaron. :D

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Post Posted: Fri Jul 22, 2011 8:15 am 
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I put forth the question to you:

How do you figure that converting your car to SPOA will achieve move flex or where did you get that notion from?

If you had 2 vehicles with the same spring length, shackles, bumpstop heights, identical suspension, one was SPOA the under just SPUA, the springs on either vehicle will move/flex/deflect the same distance yea?

Thus both vehicles will have the same wheel travel. The only way I can see a SPOA vehicle having more flex than a SPUA is if the setup has minimal bumpstop height and thus the spring inverts into a negative arc fairly badly. This would destroy the springs in no time.

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Post Posted: Fri Jul 22, 2011 8:16 am 
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The extended shackles won't do any good for the sag it is more likely to flatten the springs More

Ruf is a great mod get a bit of practice welding or ask a mate
Thats can weld
I think a ruf will be the better option

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Joined: Tue Jun 29, 2010 7:44 am
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Post Posted: Fri Jul 22, 2011 8:21 am 
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If your really against welding up a ruf. You can buy bolt on ruf kits from the states. The kit below will require new shackels, and possibly shocks and brake lines. Depending on what you have now.

Ive personally experienced what large extended shackles can do to ride quality and spring life, its not worth it in the end.

http://www.rocky-road.com/ruf.html

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Post Posted: Fri Jul 22, 2011 9:35 am 
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JrZook wrote:
I put forth the question to you:

How do you figure that converting your car to SPOA will achieve move flex or where did you get that notion from?

If you had 2 vehicles with the same spring length, shackles, bumpstop heights, identical suspension, one was SPOA the under just SPUA, the springs on either vehicle will move/flex/deflect the same distance yea?

Thus both vehicles will have the same wheel travel. The only way I can see a SPOA vehicle having more flex than a SPUA is if the setup has minimal bumpstop height and thus the spring inverts into a negative arc fairly badly. This would destroy the springs in no time.


That's not quite right, a spoa puts different strains on the spring. The leverage point in different so with the same springs a spoa will flex more. That's what wreaks the springs.

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Post Posted: Fri Jul 22, 2011 10:20 am 
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What sort of tracks are you driving and why do you want more flex?

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Post Posted: Fri Jul 22, 2011 11:18 am 
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AS above , why do you need more flex , if it is because you are losing drive when flexed a diff lock would work much better , massive ammounts of flex is overated , you are better of with the current 2 inch suspension as it doesn't change too much under neath , also massive ammounts of flex need to be contolled somehow , so you need more gear to keep it stable especially on road , don't waste your time and money , a rear air locker will out perform most suspension mods you will ever make , Cheers Paul.

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