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Post Posted: Mon Aug 08, 2011 8:02 am 
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Im in the process of doing all my wheel bearings i've done the front without any hassles but the rears are giving me trouble. i cant seem to remove the rear axle shaft. Is there a certain way to remove them?? i tried following the hynes manual but the vitara in the book isnt the same rear axle as mine.

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Post Posted: Mon Aug 08, 2011 8:13 am 
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Assuming you're talking about getting the axel itself out?

Suzuki manual just says to take the retaining nuts off and use a puller...

Probably just sezed? I hate axels on old cars...


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Post Posted: Mon Aug 08, 2011 8:16 am 
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yup thats what i tried doing used a puller but didnt budge at all. might have to try again with some extra force

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Post Posted: Mon Aug 08, 2011 8:20 am 
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http://auszookers.com/index.php?name=Fo ... ic&t=19477

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Post Posted: Mon Aug 08, 2011 8:22 am 
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Thanks atari

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Post Posted: Mon Aug 08, 2011 9:30 am 
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I put a wheel back on loosely,
and use it like a slide hammer

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Post Posted: Mon Aug 08, 2011 9:50 am 
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I use this

Plus a bit of chain from bunnings. Handy things to have.

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Post Posted: Mon Aug 08, 2011 9:54 am 
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I was using a slide hammer for about an hour and until it broke but putting the wheel back on and hitting it with a hammer took about 3-4 mins.

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Post Posted: Mon Aug 08, 2011 9:56 am 
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yeah put wheel back on a kick it a few times whilst under the car... just make sure its stable

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Post Posted: Mon Aug 08, 2011 10:50 am 
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shane1992 wrote:
yeah put wheel back on a kick it a few times whilst under the car... just make sure its stable


dont do this, unfortunately you only get to have a car fall on you once

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Post Posted: Mon Aug 08, 2011 8:48 pm 
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The last time I did my wheel bearings, I had one stuck on.
Tired using tyre as slide hammer, tried using chain etc too.


Last resort was put a stock rim on, and belt it many times with a sledge hammer. Needless to say, rim is now rooted.

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Post Posted: Wed Sep 14, 2011 5:58 am 
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ok ive been at it again on the vitara and i still cant seem to get the axle shaft to budge i tried everything said here including using a spare rim and hitting it with both a rubber mallet and sledge hammer. any idea as to why it wont come out?

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Post Posted: Wed Sep 14, 2011 6:24 am 
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royce wrote:
shane1992 wrote:
yeah put wheel back on a kick it a few times whilst under the car... just make sure its stable


dont do this, unfortunately you only get to have a car fall on you once


X1000,000,000,000,000,000,000,000 8O

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Last edited by steak_knife on Wed Sep 14, 2011 6:25 am, edited 1 time in total.
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Post Posted: Wed Sep 14, 2011 6:25 am 
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youve undone 4 nuts, a brake line and a handbrake cable?

The brake backing plate is free of the housing and moving around?

Stick the wheel back on, put 3 wheel nuts on a few turns and pull on that wheel like you are trying to topple the car (please make sure the car is stable and not actually going to topple on you

Keep yanking on that till the axle gives or your amrs fall off!

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Post Posted: Wed Sep 14, 2011 7:32 am 
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Yup I've done all of the above and I've been yanking for almost 2 and a half hours haha guess I'll have to keep trying

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Post Posted: Wed Sep 14, 2011 9:37 am 
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Try heat around the bearing cup. That is the only way I have gotten the stubborn ones out. Just a propane torch will work, you don't want to use an oxy torch it gets too hot.

Just work the bearing cup for a minute or two, and you will be surprised how much easier it is.

I had one axle tied to a full size 1987 Chevy, and the housing tied to my 94 chevy loaded with steel. It drug my chevy loaded with steel 3 feet sideways and the axle did not budge.

The next day I used heat and a chain..it popped out so quick it was like a spear.

Also make sure the housing is held very very tight. if the housing can move at all then the shock form the slide hammer just moves the housing and you will never get the axle out. I just tie the housing tight to another rig, but you can use anything heavy enough to make it sit still.

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Post Posted: Wed Sep 14, 2011 9:54 am 
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Just to add, the problem is usually cause by rust. The outer bearing race will rust itself right to the housing.

In my case more frequent oil changes by the owner would have prevented the problem.

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Post Posted: Wed Sep 14, 2011 10:58 pm 
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Any luck?

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Post Posted: Thu Sep 15, 2011 2:27 am 
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im going to try again on saturday when i get my propane torch back from my dad hopefully it works if not ill just have to hit it with the grinder and cut the outer race off

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Post Posted: Thu Sep 15, 2011 6:08 am 
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Put the drum on backward's, put 2 nut's on so the drum can still move & use drum as slid hammer.....
Can safely on stand's, also doesn't hurt to stick a trye under there to..

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Post Posted: Thu Sep 15, 2011 9:16 am 
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That is a good one stekky :D

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Post Posted: Thu Sep 15, 2011 10:17 am 
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skyman wrote:
That is a good one stekky :D


Never failed me...


Apart from the time's it didn't work... :roll:

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