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Post Posted: Tue Aug 16, 2011 10:04 am 
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as the title suggests, i have a question about changing the clutch... can the transmission be removed from the engine without removing the starter motor? reason being, the morons who rebuilt my starter motor stripped one of the 2 bolts holding it in place, and after many failed attempts by me to remove it, i took it to a workshop to see if they could remove it... after an hour they told me they couldnt do it (didnt charge me obviously) and suggested it would be easiest to just remove the whole engine and transmission together so i can get a grinder, or easy out to it easier... with both out, can the transmission be unbolted or does the starter hold it together?

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Post Posted: Tue Aug 16, 2011 10:06 am 
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I think it has to come off. I forget.

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Post Posted: Tue Aug 16, 2011 10:08 am 
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stripped the head of the bolt?
cut the head off another bolt and weld it to the old bolt head, than undo with a spanner as per normal.
or undo it with vice grips.
also there a socket heads made for striped bolt heads, some work very well... some dont.

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Post Posted: Tue Aug 16, 2011 10:16 am 
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...most of the head is gone. by "failed attempts" i mean i tried everything including the cold chisel and a hammer method. and the mechanic i took it to to remove it pretty much destroyed what was left of it...

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Post Posted: Tue Aug 16, 2011 10:23 am 
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than you only option that i can think of mate is to.

cut the head off another bolt and weld it to the buggered head so you have something to chuck a spanner on, hit it with some good wd-40 type stuff to loosen up its grip, also once the other head is welded on it, try to tighten the bolt a bit, this will loosen it off it is seized.
if you cant weld, find someone who can.


also you could try drill it out, but that will be hard.

another thing i have seen is welding a socket head on it real good. than just use a ratchet to get it off, replace bolt and will cost you a socket head.

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Post Posted: Tue Aug 16, 2011 10:26 am 
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Try get a good quality vice grips onto it

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Post Posted: Tue Aug 16, 2011 10:26 am 
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The started has to come off. Might be easier to pull the motor and box out and tackle it out of the car.

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Post Posted: Tue Aug 16, 2011 10:29 am 
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delicate oxy job

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Post Posted: Tue Aug 16, 2011 10:44 am 
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stockman wrote:
The started has to come off.
not what i wanted to hear :(

stockman wrote:
Might be easier to pull the motor and box out and tackle it out of the car.



thats the plan atm, bludy PITA...

so would an easyout or similar work ok? or is it a better to just weld bolt, or a socket (got a few spares lying around)?


Last edited by whincup on Tue Aug 16, 2011 10:49 am, edited 1 time in total.
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Post Posted: Tue Aug 16, 2011 10:46 am 
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I cringe at easy outs... Maybe welding something to it out of the car would be easier?

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Post Posted: Tue Aug 16, 2011 10:48 am 
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Is it the top bolt or bottom?

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Post Posted: Tue Aug 16, 2011 10:49 am 
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bottom...

Jackson wrote:
I cringe at easy outs... Maybe welding something to it out of the car would be easier?


i cant weld, and have never used an easy out but keen to learn... could i just grind the top of the bolt off, remove the starter & transmission, and look at removing the rest of the bolt with an easy out or the weld another bolt to it once its all apart? would it be easier or no?

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Post Posted: Tue Aug 16, 2011 10:57 am 
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if its just one bolt giving you the hassle, you could grind it, but you would have to do a good job and grind the head completely off, and give the starter a bit of a touch up to take off the lip.
thn just take the other bolt off, and you would have to pry the starter off a bit, that vise grips to get the bolt out and happy days, i would try all above options before taking the engine and all that out.

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Post Posted: Tue Aug 16, 2011 10:59 am 
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The worst of the two. The top is bolt and nut and the bottom it bolt into thread on box.
Assuming you have stripped the nut head and not the thread try a socket. You will need a thin walled socket (might even need to grind one down) an extension and a uni. Hopefully that will give you enough bite.
If not then a nut welded on would be the next best option imo.

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Post Posted: Tue Aug 16, 2011 10:59 am 
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Easy outs are pretty easy to use just drill a hole in the bolt and turn the easy out to the left and they undo the bolt. Problem is they are brittle and snap easily then they are harder then drill bits :crazy:

Grinding the head off might be an easier option though it is probably in a shit spot...

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Post Posted: Tue Aug 16, 2011 11:02 am 
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joel wrote:
i would try all above options before taking the engine and all that out.


needs to come out because theres fuel lines about 2" from the bolt... as a rule, i prefer no grinding near something like that.

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Post Posted: Tue Aug 16, 2011 11:11 am 
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Just take the engine out. It will make everything easier... Doing the clutch, cutting the bolt, etc plus its not even hard to lift out. I know coilys aren't the same but NT's are like 10-15 bolts to take the front guard, front grill and inner guards off definitely makes lifting the lot out easier too.

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Post Posted: Tue Aug 16, 2011 12:09 pm 
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you can buy twist sockets, they are essentially a easy out but for ruined bolt heads
http://www.tengtools.com.au/9-pce-twist-socket-set.html
otherwise a small pipe wrench or vice grips, bit by bit

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Post Posted: Tue Aug 16, 2011 2:13 pm 
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This is hardly means to pull the whole engine and gearbox out.

Twist sockets are the first thing I'd be trying. If this fails a cold chiesel. The bolt will only need a good 1/4-1/2 turn until it comes loose. I know it's in a prick of a spot so try move as much shit out of your way as possible.

If all else fails, disconnect fuel output on tank and isolate. Blow remaining fuel out of lines, grab the 4" with a 1mm cut off disk and cut between the bellhousing and the engine to cut the fucker in half.

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Post Posted: Tue Aug 16, 2011 2:17 pm 
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read & learn with shep... it gets slightly off topic. :lol:

http://auszookers.com/index.php?name=Fo ... wheel+weld

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Post Posted: Tue Aug 16, 2011 2:22 pm 
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whincup wrote:
...most of the head is gone. by "failed attempts" i mean i tried everything including the cold chisel and a hammer method. and the mechanic i took it to to remove it pretty much destroyed what was left of it...


Missed this. Ditch the cold chiesel idea! And probably the twist socket idea. Sounds like the head of the bolt looks like a half eaten pastie.

Only good thing for it is a cut off disk. Keep us updated.

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Post Posted: Tue Aug 16, 2011 2:30 pm 
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Thanks Atari, that threads a pisser!

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Post Posted: Tue Aug 16, 2011 6:27 pm 
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atari4x4 wrote:
read & learn with shep... it gets slightly off topic. :lol:

http://auszookers.com/index.php?name=Fo ... wheel+weld


i'll have a read of that when i get home from work. but coming from shep, i know its gotta be good :lol:

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Post Posted: Tue Aug 16, 2011 10:10 pm 
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I'd be suprised if you can get a twist socket in there. A ring spanner only just fits on there.

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Post Posted: Tue Aug 16, 2011 10:32 pm 
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die grinder and carbide burr or dremel with small burr or cut off wheel

they are rather small and easy to use but will take time. a lot less time than removing the engine though

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Post Posted: Wed Aug 17, 2011 7:52 am 
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TZAR wrote:
die grinder and carbide burr or dremel with small burr or cut off wheel

they are rather small and easy to use but will take time. a lot less time than removing the engine though


everythings undone except engine mounts and transmission mounts, ready to remove on the weekend... wish i had the money to go G16B while it was out :(

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