[jonno_racing]

ok so i have new flairs for my pos. they are plastic wt flares but i have no idea how to attach them so they wont fall off..

they are genuine suzuki flares. i am just after ideas..

Phil

[Rusho]

Nut serts

[TZAR]

X 55

[jonno_racing]

Rusho wrote:

Nut serts

stainless nutserts tigged to the mounts??? (yes i am just coming up with excuses to use my new tig.

[jonno_racing]

TZAR wrote:

X 55

they would just tare off i recon.

[Rusho]

jonno_racing wrote:

Rusho wrote:

Nut serts

stainless nutserts tigged to the mounts??? (yes i am just coming up with excuses to use my new tig.

That'll do

[jonno_racing]

m5 should do it.

[ando_zook94]

rivet

[Rhino]

Are the the 88.5 wt Flares??
Dont they mount the same as tin Wt flares?

[Fatzook]

jonno_racing wrote:

Rusho wrote:

Nut serts

stainless nutserts tigged to the mounts??? (yes i am just coming up with excuses to use my new tig.

Is the mount made from stainless? If not, don't waste your time. Stainless threads bind and strip out far to easily. And welding them to mild steel is piontless. Just use zinc nutserts.

[CompTruck]

how are the metal ones connected? i wanna remove mine for paintjob but dunno how to get em off

[Zuccinni]

Remove flare by unscrewing philip head bolts on inside of flare. May need to grind bolt heads of depending on rust. Buy one of these spot weld drills from Trade Tools or the like. Punch center of spot weld and slowly drill out first layer.



End Result.

[CompTruck]

are the screwed AND spot welded?

i dont understand fully. am i using a spot weld drill bit on the screw heads if there rusted too bad?

[Zuccinni]

Grind the head of the Philip head bolts if they cannot be unscrewed. Use a cutoff wheel at right angles to the bolt being careful not to cut into the flare, or use a grinding wheel perpendicular to the bolt and stopping short of the flare. There maybe 6 and one nut at top center. Take the flare off and under the flare there is the flare holder that is spot welded to the guard. Its these spot welds that are drilled out.

[CompTruck]

ok now i get it. thanks heaps

[bohuler]

Zuccinni, you are my new bestest friend!! I have never heard of the spot weld drill but faaaaark its looks a million times easiers and quicker AND neater then sitting there with a grinding wheel trying to take out the spot weld
Thanks heaps for giving me another toy to go out and buy!
Cheers
Dave

[Zuccinni]

I can't take all the credit, another Suzuki enthusiast put me on to them. They work pretty good and the one bought has a doubled ended holesaw so I get two bites at the cherry.

[bohuler]

http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/120678177633 ... 1423.l2649
I found this bad boy, i really like the fact it has a shitload of extra cutter head things, the cheaper ones I looked at only had 1 or 2 extra heads. Just wondering wtf is the drill bit for? I get the crown cutter from your pic, do you use the cutter head as you have done then the drill be is to take the rest of the middle of the spot weld out?
Dave

[Zuccinni]

Yes, I reckon the drill is to take the rest of the spot weld off after you've cut it with the holesaw. If you noticed the drill point is fairly flat for that purpose. I only have the holesaw and arbour. The point on the arbour is to locate the tool in the punch indentation in the center of the spotweld. The point is spring loaded so when you push against it it slides into the body of the arbour. Take care because when the saw contacts the metal it might bite in and wander off. I just re-read your post and what saying is probably right.

[bohuler]

Okkies, when I sober up tomorrow I'll be spending some of my allowance money and buying it I know from expererience if I buy it tonight while pissed I might forget to pay it till I next log into eBay, could be a week or so
Dave