[Llewellyn92]

G'day guys, Im in the process of doing a full rebuild on the not so common 16 valve throttle body injected g16 which i just bought and will be using for a swap into my sierra. First off my confusion starts with the fact that the block says G16A, Does this mean both the A and B motors use the A block with different pistons for the 16 valve head? or is my motor a bitsa? Also Im having trouble finding a rebuild kit for the motor as i dont know what year it is and have read there is a different kit for the pre 1996 G16B's? can anyone varify this or is it safe to just buy a generic G16B rebuild kit with the correct sized pistons/rings/bearings etc . Also anyone got any ideas on undoing the bolt on the crank that holds on the timing belt sproket??? ive started to fill my bin with broken tools haha. cheers guys any advice is well apreciated

[want33s]

If it has 16V pistons fitted it is a G16B. While every 16V sold new in Aust was marked G16B, lots of engines sold in other countries were only marked G16A...
Just ask for bits for a 94 Vitara.
Try a rattle gun on the crank bolt.

[Llewellyn92]

Why for a 94? is it the most common? haha tried the rattle gun....... no success

[want33s]

Llewellyn92 wrote:

Why for a 94? is it the most common? haha tried the rattle gun....... no success

94 was the first of G16B's in SWB's.
LWB's had G16B's a few years before that.

If you ask for 94 Vitara G16B parts the cabbage at the parts shop can't really get it wrong.

[royce]

I'd be asking for parts for a 16valve Throttle body injected Swift engine personally, afterall that is what it is

Using G16B ar A is a surefire method of confusion, when as youve already found you have a G16A

[matty]

about that bolt, just did mine and we jamed a pinch bar between the block and the fly wheel teeth and abit of muscle power and she came loose first go. dont use rattle guns you will only break stuff.

[bohuler]

Hit the head of the bolt with an oxy, just enough to heat it up a bit. The heat helps the loctite let go.
Dave

[Ben_Sierra]

matty wrote:

about that bolt, just did mine and we jamed a pinch bar between the block and the fly wheel teeth and abit of muscle power and she came loose first go. dont use rattle guns you will only break stuff.

Using lots of leverage is far more likely to shear a bolt than using a rattle gun...

[Llewellyn92]

I think ill run with the oxy idea. This thing is freaking tight, 3 foot of leverage and its the tools giving up not the bolt.
Royce, parts for vitara G16 motors are much easier to come by and usually cheaper. beacuse im a tight ass i was trying to workout which parts were compatable. Im still comfused, so the block and bottom end on both the G16 A and B are the same except for the cut aways on the piston face for the valves? will these parts be compatable?
cheers

[shane1992]

america and australia didnt have efi in 91 and earlier.. Mine is a G16A.. I just bought G16B gear when i rebuilt mine, and it all fits,.....

[joeblow]

Llewellyn92 wrote:

so the block and bottom end on both the G16 A and B are the same except for the cut aways on the piston face for the valves? will these parts be compatable?
cheers

No, the EFI blocks also have a fully counterweighted crank shaft. The carby jobs don't.

[FullyZooked]

This worked for me, remove clutch instection plate and lock flywheel with a Magic tool eg. Big arse screwdriver, then grab the 1/2" 17mm socket and 600mm+ breaker bar and give it some muscle.

If it doesn't budge try heating the bolt as per last previous post to break loctite.

Make sure when doing the bolt back up it's to 94 foot pound.

Good luck.

[Llewellyn92]

cheers guys thanks for the feedback

[skyman]

I used the handle from my farm / hi-lift jack to break mine that thing was damned tight, hey! I think the handl i damned near 4', or near 1.5 meters long.

Ya know if anyone reading doesn't have a oxy/ace torch (which really helps), just really good propane torch will get it hot enough to break the locktight. it takes a little longer, but will get the job done.

There was a technical bulletin here about that crank pulley coming loose when torqued to the FSM specs, and wallowing out the key-way. It completely buggers the crank when it comes loose.

So FullyZooked is right on the money when he says to get that thing at 94 foot pounds use locktite too.

[Llewellyn92]

Does the heat damage the bolt in anyway, for instance does it anneal the metal?

[Llewellyn92]

Time to find all the new parts since all the machining has been done. Where have people found the best value for money on clutches, gasket kits, water/oilpumps, timing belt kits and big/mainbearing? . Already got new pistons and rings but need the rest befor i can go ashead. Any ideas befor i find myself at RIPCO or the like?
cheers guys