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Post Posted: Mon Sep 19, 2011 11:45 am 
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So who is running tires 31 or better in a spring under config, and how did you do it? How much guard chopping did you have to do, and does anyone care to share pictures?


I currently have YJ's spring over with missing links. The YJ's give about 3 inches, and the spring over gives about the same, give or take.

The rig wheels nice, and handles side hills ok, but I would like to be alittle more comfortable when we are taking tracks that lean to the side, right now it's alittle tense to say the least. :blink:

Looking at my rig, it seems I could probably get away with going to spring under. M concern is stock sheetmetal. I want my rig as stock looking (body) as possible, keeping the most amount of sheet metal I can. I also do not want to sacrifice uptravel if I do not have to, I need as soft a ride as possible.

So what size tires are you running, and how did you get them to fit? I am curious to see what others have done to fit the tire they want.

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Post Posted: Mon Sep 19, 2011 11:57 am 
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running 31's (that measure 32") presently with 2" lifted springs and 2" extended shackles plus a little hammer work on the footwells and minor grind on the front bumper. Adding a 2" bodylift along with the above mods allowed me to run 33" simex jt2's on my previous rig.

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Post Posted: Mon Sep 19, 2011 11:59 am 
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2 inch springs, 2 inch shackles, 35mm body lift, rear springs up front and some extention on my front bump stops allow me to run 32 inch simex that measure up to 33 inches sprung under. low and slow!!!

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Post Posted: Mon Sep 19, 2011 12:24 pm 
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33x12.5 with very worn out and sagged calmini springs 25mm shackle lift and 25mm body lift.
shackles are more because of the length of the spring.
the fuel filler hose thing needed to pulled in a little tighter to the chassis and a hammer to the back of the rear wheel well.
the front has the diff moved forward a fair bit, approximately 50mm. tyre does rub on the headlight bucket thing but i am just going to cut it out so it wont be a issue then.

the rear tyres do still rub a bit on the edge of the wheel arch so i am going to unbolt the flares and move them up a fair bit
and just plasma off any thing that is in the way :D

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Last edited by shep on Mon Sep 19, 2011 12:29 pm, edited 1 time in total.
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Post Posted: Mon Sep 19, 2011 12:25 pm 
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no lift, ruf and cut guards for 34's
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Joined: Wed May 27, 2009 11:30 pm
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Location: Fremantle, WA
Vehicle: '85 Sierra LWB Ute, Lkd 33's

Post Posted: Mon Sep 19, 2011 12:28 pm 
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I'm working on 33's for my project, plenty of trimming and trying to avoid bumpstop extensions

body will be 45mm off the chassis..not sure what this is compared to standard
guards have been tapered in to avoid tires hitting the headlights
front diff moved forward ~30mm, needs to move back 10mm though
the springs are standard (i think) and are pretty flat
2" extended shackles

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gwagensteve built a sierra for a guy on 35s i think sprung under with no body lift or extra spacing

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Post Posted: Mon Sep 19, 2011 12:47 pm 
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Chassis extension, 65mm EFS rears in front, 2 inch body lift. I have heavy motor so it sits a little flatter but this week I am pullling a couple leaves out of the front to get it lower as it doesn't need the height.

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Post Posted: Mon Sep 19, 2011 1:24 pm 
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Thanks guys, a much better response than I was expecting. Keep them coming if you got them.

Sheps, It looks like you have had some experience with the fuel filler pipe how much of a pain in the ass is it? if I drop my suspension by 2.5-3" is it going to be in the way?here in the states that;s kind of like the one "don't fruck with" item, because they are odd shaped and we can't get replacements easy.

I am thinking the YJs are giving me about 3" of lift, and doing the conversions it looks like you are lifted about 4.5 inches Dank, what size tires are you running?

AJ,
Did you have to cut out the inner part of the fender that protects the engine bay? That black one is looking pretty sharp and well done.

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Vehicle: '92 Sierra, 1.6efi, SPOA, 31s.

Post Posted: Mon Sep 19, 2011 1:30 pm 
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hey skyman, out of curiosity, how are the YJ's giving 3" of lift??? my hilux leaves ait dead flat, infact slightly inverted at the front. all my lift is from the SPOA and not the leaves.

it sounds like you could retain your SPOA and flatten the leaves, which would be the easiest option...

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Post Posted: Mon Sep 19, 2011 3:10 pm 
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I think it is part missing links, and the other part the wy the made the mounting brackets for the spring hangers.

I had a set of flat springs on before (they were too soft), and it really didn't drop the rig much compared to where it sits now.

That is an excellent idea though, and something I should really look at for getting even lower.

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Post Posted: Mon Sep 19, 2011 6:48 pm 
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I have 31's with just 2" spring lift.

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Post Posted: Mon Sep 19, 2011 8:22 pm 
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skyman wrote:
Thanks guys, a much better response than I was expecting. Keep them coming if you got them.



AJ,
Did you have to cut out the inner part of the fender that protects the engine bay? That black one is looking pretty sharp and well done.


I did on this one but the red one still ran them with a few mods

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Post Posted: Mon Sep 19, 2011 8:50 pm 
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skyman wrote:
Sheps, It looks like you have had some experience with the fuel filler pipe how much of a pain in the ass is it?


mate i just put a hose clamp around it and pulled it closer to the chassis. no problems.

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Post Posted: Mon Sep 19, 2011 10:04 pm 
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Skyman they are the same tyre as ajsr. 34x10.5-15 LTB swamper.

I hope to pull about 2 inches out of the front as the rear has come down a bit and it's way too high in the front. I also have longer shackles which I might shorten down as well.

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Post Posted: Tue Sep 20, 2011 11:04 am 
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SierraDan wrote:
I have 31's with just 2" spring lift.


me too, no bumpstop extensions either. the back is fine, the front scrubbed on the standard front bar a little until i got the hammer out, but the only other part that rubs is on the flare where theres a massive dent from when i rolled it... i dont have a whole lot of flex though either.

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Post Posted: Tue Sep 20, 2011 11:09 am 
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31's aren't what I'd call a BIG tyre in the states, pretty sure ajsr is winning this game atm... waits patiently for gwagon to post the pic of the tintop on 35's :wink:

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Post Posted: Tue Sep 20, 2011 11:59 am 
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skyman wrote:
So who is running tires 31 or better in a spring under config, and how did you do it?

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Post Posted: Tue Sep 20, 2011 12:06 pm 
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My car, on the right, runs skinny 32s (similar to 235/85s). Suspension is completely standard; springs, shocks, shackles and bump stops all unchanged. Guards are uncut. Has a 2" body lift, seams hammered flat and bar mounts trimmed. It doesn't rub on the guards anywhere but it does hit the springs at full lock (rims have zero offset).

The trolley tug on the left runs 36s. Mods done to make them fit are in this thread. http://www.auszookers.com/index.php?nam ... ic&t=14025

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Post Posted: Tue Sep 20, 2011 12:07 pm 
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yes Dan, i can read.

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Post Posted: Tue Sep 20, 2011 12:27 pm 
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steve125 wrote:
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My car, on the right, runs skinny 32s (similar to 235/85s). Suspension is completely standard; springs, shocks, shackles and bump stops all unchanged. Guards are uncut. Has a 2" body lift, seams hammered flat and bar mounts trimmed. It doesn't rub on the guards anywhere but it does hit the springs at full lock (rims have zero offset).

The trolley tug on the left runs 36s. Mods done to make them fit are in this thread. http://www.auszookers.com/index.php?nam ... ic&t=14025


Are they 15's or 16's?

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Post Posted: Tue Sep 20, 2011 1:12 pm 
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stockman wrote:
Are they 15's or 16's?


7.50 16 tyres on 16x4.5 rims

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Post Posted: Tue Sep 20, 2011 2:35 pm 
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steve125 wrote:
stockman wrote:
Are they 15's or 16's?


7.50 16 tyres on 16x4.5 rims


What tyres are they, SATs or something?

There is no cooler Sierra than a tin top on tall skinny tires, 8)

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Post Posted: Tue Sep 20, 2011 10:45 pm 
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LWB
2inch body lift
1 inch spring lift
headlight bucket trimmed
RUF (rears up front conversion) - front diff 25mm forward
40mm bump stop spacing in the front
25mm bump stop spacing in the rear
seams hammered
cleared 33x12.5 BFGs on 15x8 -25

Those tyres are sold and have purchased 34x10.5r15 LTB swampers and will not change anything (hopefully)

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Post Posted: Tue Sep 20, 2011 10:50 pm 
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steve125 wrote:
stockman wrote:
Are they 15's or 16's?


7.50 16 tyres on 16x4.5 rims


Thats an excellent set up.

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Post Posted: Tue Sep 20, 2011 11:34 pm 
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sideways wrote:
steve125 wrote:

7.50 16 tyres on 16x4.5 rims


What tyres are they, SATs or something?



Goodyear Hi Miler Xtra Grip

Second hand from the Army. The ones I bought were mostly unused spares off the back of Landrovers.

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Post Posted: Wed Sep 21, 2011 12:13 am 
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Nice ride Brenno, how is the uptravel? s there any way you could get a side shot of your rig at about frame height from say like 6 feet away? (or enough to fit the LWB in the frame). I would like to see how the frame looks.


So for those of you running body lifts, do they look ok, and is there any drama's associated with them? I have always been against body lifts, but the more I see done, and the better they are done, the more I am starting to like them.

I suppose I could go spring under and do a 1-2" body lift. With the drive line angles better from the lowered frame, I could also tuck the transfer up and get a flat belly.

Atari,
you are right, 31" tires are not considered really big here, but what is funny is that with the Zooks short wheelbase stockish tires can do 70% of our trails, 31's would probably do 85-95% on a Zook, and 35"s ( a true 35) wil go just about anywhere.


FWIW
I kinda have a problem with tires over 35"s (37-39") for our trails, they dig big tranches and ruts which channel the water, make the trails impassable, and get them shut down by the greenies for erosion. When a 33 can do the same job as a 39 incher what's the point?

Thanks for all the posts so far, it looks like you guys use all kinds of combinations to get your tires to fit where as here, it's just spring over, and taller shackles or springs.

*edited to get rid of bad grammar ,and random rambling*

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Post Posted: Wed Sep 21, 2011 12:29 am 
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^ I now know what you mean from being over there.. Every truck over there has at least 10" of lift with ifs and lift blocks between the rear diff and leaf springs with 35's+

I ran 33-realsize32" 15x8 -28 rims, 2"Body, maybe 1 " spring lift total.(ruf, Extended shackles,corolla spring mix rear) Hammered seams, front moved 30mm forward, rear was 17mm rearward, Lifted transfer, Stock bumps.

I scrubbed, front corner edge was touching the tyres when turning while flexed, not enough to worry though, and rear cleaned the paint off the seams only, Also front rubbed on springs under full lock.

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Side picture of 2" bodylift.(Not finished with spring height in pic yet)
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Height when sold. Next to spoa on 31's
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I didnt like 2 things, The stupid crossmember underneath that is like a hook on eveything, And the rear spring mounts for the front of the springs. These caught on everything. So i deleted them on my new rig. :lol:

My fuel hose was held back with a push button/self locking strap only. No problems, but then i changed my tank to a vit, so hose comes above chassis with a bodylift.

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Last edited by BlueSuzy on Wed Sep 21, 2011 12:46 am, edited 1 time in total.
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Post Posted: Wed Sep 21, 2011 12:44 am 
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For me, body lift was the simplest way to clear biggish tyres. The alternative is to cut and weld thin body panels. Something I don't have the tools or skills for.

Gwagensteve helped build a low car on 35s. There's some info on Pirate4x4 about the car and the work involved.

http://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/showthread.php?t=964558

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Post Posted: Wed Dec 07, 2011 9:29 pm 
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steve125 wrote:
stockman wrote:
Are they 15's or 16's?


7.50 16 tyres on 16x4.5 rims


7.5" off a tape measure is only 190mm, would a 235 be safe to run on 4.5'' rims?

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Post Posted: Wed Dec 07, 2011 9:49 pm 
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33x14.5, flipped 10" rim's max offset. Bashed seams, 50mm bump stop spacers, 50mm body lift, RUF and lift springs in the rear
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