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Post Posted: Sat Dec 06, 2008 3:45 am 
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Muhahaha good luck.

Trying to find a ke30 front seat brown vinal creamy/brown woven material! usually few rollas there. But had to be when i bought 1 they have none :?

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Post Posted: Sun Dec 14, 2008 6:21 pm 
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well a little progress today.

i now have both lux diffs sitting under the springs, everything sits pretty nice. the front perches JUST line up, well they are close enough to pull the spring out to fit into the hole.

the rears will need to be moved and re welded.

now can some one please school me on castor angles. and castor wedges.

what do i need to do with the front perches? seein gthat they line up should i just leave them as they are?

i have double cardin joints to run, will these be good enough to cope with the drive shaft angle? or do i need to rotate the diff?


another question, can i drill the springs them selves to shift the diff forward or is this a huge no no?

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Post Posted: Sun Dec 14, 2008 7:19 pm 
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the perches dont fucking line up dont be bodgy!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

wait till greg sees this, he will come and take it off you, pet hate of his

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Post Posted: Sun Dec 14, 2008 11:13 pm 
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royce.. are we in need of a new panty liner....

fair enough, a little cutting and welding wont be too difficult.

but the question remains, do i need to rotate the diff up to point to the transfer case or should i try to leave it in its stock position.

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Post Posted: Sun Dec 14, 2008 11:20 pm 
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hehe just hate to see you put all this work in and swear heaps when the front dont flex :wink:

I would set it so the caster angle matches stock, measure the pinion angle on a stocker and rotate yours to match, you only point the pinion up if you are using a CV at the transfer end, then you would also need to rotate the knuckles back to get your castor happening again

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Post Posted: Sun Dec 14, 2008 11:26 pm 
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so basically try and sit it the same way it sat in the hilux when stock.

with the rear, i can just rotate it until it points straight to the transfer, correct?

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Post Posted: Sun Dec 14, 2008 11:34 pm 
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NO!!!!!

unis only work when they are both working at teh same angle, ideally you want the pinion angle to be pretty close to parallel with the tcase outputs

if you have a cv at the tcase end you have to point it at teh tcase so the uni is running straight with no twist in it otherwise it will vibrate

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Post Posted: Fri Jan 02, 2009 9:26 pm 
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chasis extension done today.

added 200 mm, i used 100x50x3mm. i welded everything as a vertical up for max penetration.

tomorrow i cut off the old perches in the centre of the chassis and do a shackle reversal.


i'll post pics of everything tomorrow arvo.

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Post Posted: Fri Jan 02, 2009 9:34 pm 
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Pubic wrote:
i welded everything as a vertical up for max penetration.


How did you weld the underneath bit? I suck bad at overheads.

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Post Posted: Sat Jan 03, 2009 1:48 am 
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tig is a lot easier to control your weld once you learn.

the bottom sections were done as overheads.....

when tig'ing mild steel... you get SUCH a better job if you sand off all of the paint and rust. the welds turned out super clean "in some spots"

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Post Posted: Sat Jan 03, 2009 12:04 pm 
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Pubic wrote:
tig is a lot easier to control your weld once you learn.

the bottom sections were done as overheads.....

when tig'ing mild steel... you get SUCH a better job if you sand off all of the paint and rust. the welds turned out super clean "in some spots"


Never tried an overhead TIG, was referring to MIG. But enough of this welding geekery, where's the pics???

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Post Posted: Sat Jan 03, 2009 9:18 pm 
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pics of bits and pieces


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Post Posted: Sat Jan 03, 2009 9:20 pm 
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more pics


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Post Posted: Sat Jan 03, 2009 9:23 pm 
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a few pics fo shackles etc

i will be gussetting the top of the front hanger and putting a plate across the top of it.


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Post Posted: Sat Jan 03, 2009 11:10 pm 
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Nice, Pubes!

Ya reckon you'll have to trim those old bumper mounts? :lol:

I want a drop saw like that too!

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Post Posted: Sun Jan 04, 2009 12:16 am 
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looking good. did you tig weld the chassie bits?

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Post Posted: Sun Jan 04, 2009 4:31 am 
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damo... i think i may just need to trim them.. :lol:


yeh brendan, they were tig'ed most of the welding was done around 100-120 amps..... stupidly didnt wear a long sleeve shirt.... only a singlet... :oops: paying for it now.

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Post Posted: Mon Jun 29, 2009 4:47 pm 
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so there has been a little bit of progress....

i now have the rear diff bolted in, just temporarily so i have a rolling chassis.

im not welding them to the hangers until everything else is done, i will aslo adjust the front diff pinion angle at the same time.

motor and gearbox mated and in their final position.

jack shaft made as you will see. machined a piece to join the two, pressed them together and tig welded. splashed a bit of pressure pack over it, now it looks good enough to work in with the rest of the crap :lol:

i checked to see if the body fitted over the engine+box.

the gearbox touches the tunnel slightly, but a little massaging with a BFH will fix that. and there is no need for a body lift.

will be doing a virtual lift to try and keep things low.

to get the body back on i used the mcgyver body hoist again everything slid striaght down where it needed to.

next on the list is to build a cradle for the transfer case and look at moving the rear diff back. ATM the diff is much too close to the t/case and the angle is much too steep.

i have heard people mention using CV's for the steep angles.

can anyone add more light to my lack of knowledge of these?

i also need to know if there is any other reason to stopping me form rotating my transfer case down to lower the angle of the rear tailshaft apart from it hanging lower than the chassis rails and hitting on the middle cross member, i will be customising the middle crossmember for the driveshaft to go under instead of over it and the transfer case cradle will have a skid plate encorporated.

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Post Posted: Mon Jun 29, 2009 4:48 pm 
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a couple of photos


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Post Posted: Mon Jun 29, 2009 4:51 pm 
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more photos... by the way.. .taken with a phone last night.. sorry about the quality


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Post Posted: Mon Jun 29, 2009 5:25 pm 
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Lucky your welding is better than your photography :thefinger:

I'm guessing they are 12.5 wide tyres but faaark they look heaps wider than that!

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Post Posted: Mon Jun 29, 2009 11:43 pm 
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you still havent made more room in the shed mate.Good work has come along way since i was there,keep it up 8)

matt

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Post Posted: Mon Jul 27, 2009 11:19 pm 
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seriously a cool truck

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Post Posted: Wed Sep 30, 2009 4:58 pm 
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a little more progress......

seats in, some guard chopping and body lift to go in this weekend.

pics...........


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Post Posted: Wed Sep 30, 2009 5:00 pm 
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will post up some pics later to explain what im doing to stop tyre rub on the headlight bucket.

basically cut and flipped that section that has been cut out... moves the headlight in 2"ish, just need to customise a grill....

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Post Posted: Wed Sep 30, 2009 5:06 pm 
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It is actually coming together!! :D :D :D

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Post Posted: Wed Sep 30, 2009 5:29 pm 
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what were you expecting.... :oops:

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Post Posted: Wed Sep 30, 2009 5:39 pm 
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:lol:

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Post Posted: Wed Sep 30, 2009 10:45 pm 
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your hand brake looks painful if you bounced onto it.... :D :D

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Post Posted: Wed Sep 30, 2009 11:18 pm 
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Pubic wrote:
a little more progress......


Excellent to see you still working on it Pubic! :goodjob:

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