[christover1]

Old vit motor has these bits, but new Swift Baleno doesnt.
Don't want to crack open crank bearing bolts if I don't have to.
Anyone know what they are for?

[11_evl]

They are bearing cap stiffeners. Better to leave if possible

[zukmeista]

Looks like bracing for extra strength. I'd put it on the new motor if it fits, stronger is better

[christover1]

Yeah I think I just decided to change them over to the new donk.

Gone to so much trouble to get everything else right,
may as well put them in.

Now to look up torque setting for crank bearing bolts.
I better check bolt length, too, in case they different

[atari4x4]

crank girdle

[want33s]

It is called a stud girdle and is A GOOD THING... Helps to stop the main caps and block webbing from flexing. Block/cap flexing is A BAD THING.

[christover1]

atari4x4 wrote:

crank girdle

Does that make it a girly car then

[christover1]

Thanks all, it will be going onto the new donk for sure.
Wouldn't fit without the sump change.

Forgot to buy a sump gasket,
so its all tomorrows job now

[christover1]

http://www.suzimotive.com.au/technical.htm

Found a useful listing of torque settings and other useful info.

Is it the Main bearing torque figure I'm to use?

[zukmeista]

Yep, those are the main bearing caps.

[christover1]

zukmeista wrote:

Yep, those are the main bearing caps.

Thanks muchly.

[losfer]

personally , i wouldnt worry too much about the girdle . Have built a 1.6 engine that has been running progressive power figures since 2006 without a girdle .
2006-2008 .. 118 hp n/a
2008-2010 .. 128.3 hp n/a
sept 2010- june 2011 206hp turbo
june 2011 210hp turbo

has just had another $8000 spent on the engine , still no girdle ...
expecting to make 250hp plus atw (over 310hp at the flywheel)

only failures in the last 5 years have been detonation (aggressive tuning)

[christover1]

I have an unfortunate reputation as an engine killer.
Going to try real hard to keep this one alive for a long time.
I can't see the girdle doing any harm,
so I will stick it in, it is easy job anyway.

I was just surprised,
first I seen or heard of them.
Could be a Vit thing?

[shandy92]

mate, make sure you use a torque wrench that is calibrated, i have to calibrate mine at work every 6 months. wouldnt be expensive to take it to a shop that could calibrate it.

i have seen some very expensive torque wrenches (norbar, snap-on, cat etc) go out of calibration by a long way in 6-12 months.

[Jester]

Yeah the bracing I switched it over to my baleno block too, hey extra stiffness cam only be a good thing

[christover1]

Jester wrote:

Yeah the bracing I switched it over to my baleno block too, hey extra stiffness cam only be a good thing

At my age that is very important

[christover1]

shandy92 wrote:

mate, make sure you use a torque wrench that is calibrated, i have to calibrate mine at work every 6 months. wouldnt be expensive to take it to a shop that could calibrate it.

i have seen some very expensive torque wrenches (norbar, snap-on, cat etc) go out of calibration by a long way in 6-12 months.

Going to use thread locker, too, to be sure.

[royce]

christover1 wrote:

shandy92 wrote:

mate, make sure you use a torque wrench that is calibrated, i have to calibrate mine at work every 6 months. wouldnt be expensive to take it to a shop that could calibrate it.

i have seen some very expensive torque wrenches (norbar, snap-on, cat etc) go out of calibration by a long way in 6-12 months.

Going to use thread locker, too, to be sure.

Be aware thread lock could give you a false tension reading, usually the numbers will be based on a certain fitting condition, IE dry or oiled etc

I wouldnt use it, if a bolt were to come loose by itself something else is gravely wrong

[christover1]

royce wrote:

christover1 wrote:

shandy92 wrote:

mate, make sure you use a torque wrench that is calibrated, i have to calibrate mine at work every 6 months. wouldnt be expensive to take it to a shop that could calibrate it.

i have seen some very expensive torque wrenches (norbar, snap-on, cat etc) go out of calibration by a long way in 6-12 months.

Going to use thread locker, too, to be sure.

Be aware thread lock could give you a false tension reading, usually the numbers will be based on a certain fitting condition, IE dry or oiled etc

I wouldnt use it, if a bolt were to come loose by itself something else is gravely wrong

Good point,
haven't used it anywhere else on the job,
found no evidence of its use in the old engine yet.
And is especially nasty when trying to get stuff off.

[royce]

I am a big fan of using it correctly on the bottom pulley bolt as flogging the keyway there is a problem, but you should be ok everywhere else

[christover1]

royce wrote:

I am a big fan of using it correctly on the bottom pulley bolt as flogging the keyway there is a problem, but you should be ok everywhere else

Had no reason to touch that, but have heard its an issue.
I try not to disturb things if I can, but will do that I think.

I got some gasket maker for sump,
auto shop found no gasket listed,
only a recommended gasket maker.
So hope its good enough.

[christover1]

A warning note for anyone doing sump related things.
With no gasket, and using a sealer instead,
my bolts were too long for some of the holes.
2 snapped off but a lot of swearing and a dremel,
all was cool again.
(So glad I bought that thing, used 3 times on engine jobs already)
So a 5 minute job took all arvo. Nothing new there.
So engine is ready for fitting now, I think.

[want33s]

Chris how could the auto shop not find a listing for a sump gasket?
Are they retarded or just on drugs?

1.3 Sierra/Swift is same gasket as 1.6 Vitara/Swift/Baleno.

[christover1]

want33s wrote:

Chris how could the auto shop not find a listing for a sump gasket?
Are they retarded or just on drugs?

1.3 Sierra/Swift is same gasket as 1.6 Vitara/Swift/Baleno.

No idea, maybe he meant none in stock,
I mishear sometimes,
not that I'm worried,
never used a diff gasket,
or even a water pump gasket for a long time.
Though I noticed new engine had no sump gasket.
Just something red.
Most bolts were fine,
just 4 down each side, don't have a hole right thru.

[losfer]

no 1.6 suzuki engine ever came from factory with a sump gasket , all were sealed with silicone/threebond

[christover1]

My import donk had a red sealant only.
My dead Vit had a cork gasket, and some black shit as well.
The dead one wasn't the oiriginal motor,
so probly explains that.

In my day we went to the cupboard
and cut a gasket out of weet bix packets.
And used stuff called gasket goo, that was used with a gasket, too.

Cheers.

[royce]

christover1 wrote:

In my day we went to the cupboard
and cut a gasket out of weet bix packets.
And used stuff called gasket goo, that was used with a gasket, too.

This is exactly how the oil filter housing on my mini is sealed, but I used cornflakes

[christover1]

royce wrote:

christover1 wrote:

In my day we went to the cupboard
and cut a gasket out of weet bix packets.
And used stuff called gasket goo, that was used with a gasket, too.

This is exactly how the oil filter housing on my mini is sealed, but I used cornflakes

Thats clearly of higher quality

[TheOtherLeft]

christover1 wrote:

royce wrote:

christover1 wrote:

In my day we went to the cupboard
and cut a gasket out of weet bix packets.
And used stuff called gasket goo, that was used with a gasket, too.

This is exactly how the oil filter housing on my mini is sealed, but I used cornflakes

Thats clearly of higher quality

And people complain of Chinese products using cardboard or Coke cans for winch drum gaskets...

[christover1]

TheOtherLeft wrote:

christover1 wrote:

royce wrote:

christover1 wrote:

In my day we went to the cupboard
and cut a gasket out of weet bix packets.
And used stuff called gasket goo, that was used with a gasket, too.

This is exactly how the oil filter housing on my mini is sealed, but I used cornflakes

Thats clearly of higher quality

And people complain of Chinese products using cardboard or Coke cans for winch drum gaskets...

But we only use high quality Coke cans and Cardboard