[christover1]

Bugger, just started assembling the Vit at last.
But could not bolt engine to auto,
as the torque converter would jam,
with about a 3mm gap.
I suspect a spacer or similar was used from wrong engine.
Think I used all the auto bits from mine.
I used my flex plate, and torque converter.
New engine came with a flex plate, too, but it was a bit bent.
So will have to remove engine and have a look see.
Thought about trying to do it in engine bay,
but probly faster to take it out first.

Anybody have any ideas what else to look into.

[Scrawny]

Is the torque converter right in? It may have come out a little bit. If you push on it while turning it around it might just pop back in a bit. May take a few turns

[christover1]

Scrawn wrote:

Is the torque converter right in? It may have come out a little bit. If you push on it while turning it around it might just pop back in a bit. May take a few turns

Yes I been doing that all arvo.
Pulled motor off the auto a few times.
Thought I 'd found problem, when I found a blob of grease on the splines.
It did go on better when I cleaned splines.
I do remember picking what looked to be the best spacer for the flex plate.
Hence my wondering if thats it.
I'll measure up properly termorra.

Oh well first auto I ever worked on,
so I am allowing myself a few oopses.

Fresh brain tomorrow will probably solve it.

[christover1]

or an angle grinder

[TZAR]

Some engines run a bearing in the back of the crank to support the input shaft of the manula boxes. The autos run a bush in the middle of the crank.

But as Shep said if they are both autos then it may be the torque convertor not going all the way on. Sometimes there is three clicks in.

And also is the flex plate on the right way. I have done these twice. On different cars.

[christover1]

I been taking photos to make sure things go back the same way.
Tho I guess that assumes it was right to start with.
Torque converter bolts to flex plate, and slides in with motor.

[dank]

chris try and put the torque converter onto the auto input shaft first. It's vitally important that you make sure the torque converter is properly seated all the way in. If it's not you risk destroying the pump on pretty much the first start of the motor and then you'll be up for big bucks getting the auto pump rebuilt.

Had a mate recently do this to his commo V6 in a hilux. ended up costing him about $800 to fix!

You can bolt the torque converter to the flywheel once the motor is bolted on. This means you can also check the clearance in the inspction panel on the bottom part of the bellhousing, there should be at least 1-2mm of play in the torque converter to flexplate union. If it's hard up against it you might need to change the spacer or check the converter again.

[christover1]

Thanks mate, gives me a good starting point for tomorrow.
cheers

[christover1]

Scrawn wrote:

Is the torque converter right in? It may have come out a little bit. If you push on it while turning it around it might just pop back in a bit. May take a few turns

I misunderstood what you meant,
it is now a bit clearer, thanks

[Brett]

put the converter on the flex plate loose, there is 2 bits that has to engage on the converter, some times it needs to move a fair bit to line up.

when its all the way home and box it tightened up turn the engine and converter over 5 or 6 times, that will center it on the flex plate.

[christover1]

dank wrote:

You can bolt the torque converter to the flywheel once the motor is bolted on. This means you can also check the clearance in the inspction panel on the bottom part of the bellhousing, there should be at least 1-2mm of play in the torque converter to flexplate union. If it's hard up against it you might need to change the spacer or check the converter again.

This will be so much easier than what I was trying.
Never entered my head that I could access the flex plate bolts underneath.
would have been easier to pull out that way, too.

Oh well, I learning lots a new stuff

[christover1]

Brett wrote:

put the converter on the flex plate loose, there is 2 bits that has to engage on the converter, some times it needs to move a fair bit to line up.

when its all the way home and box it tightened up turn the engine and converter over 5 or 6 times, that will center it on the flex plate.

Cool, thanks.
I'll be an auto expert by end of tonight.

[DSzuke]

I don't want to hijack your thread Christover1 but...


I recently had an auto gear box installed (I didn't want to do it on my garage floor)

I noticed the inspection panel when I was under there. Does it usually have a cover on it?

It looks odd so I suspect they haven't put it back on but I can't see any bolt holes or anything to mount a plate. I'll have to go back and ask for it if it is indeed missing.

[christover1]

DSzuke wrote:

I don't want to hijack your thread Christover1 but...


I recently had an auto gear box installed (I didn't want to do it on my garage floor)

I noticed the inspection panel when I was under there. Does it usually have a cover on it?

It looks odd so I suspect they haven't put it back on but I can't see any bolt holes or anything to mount a plate. I'll have to go back and ask for it if it is indeed missing.

Mine had a cover, held on by 2 tiny bolts, 6mm I think, uses 10mm spanner.
Also cover would not come off until the bracing mount came off.
Not sure if the extra braces are a Vit thing, or a auto thing.

Many mechanics leave them off, lose them, whatever, probably why new ones are sold by lowrange etyc.

[steak_knife]

Check your not doubled up on your locating dowel's....for bell housing & block..

[christover1]

Well I wish I'd asked before I started work,

but had no idea it would be different to a manual

[christover1]

steak_knife wrote:

Check your not doubled up on your locating dowel's....for bell housing & block..

Have done that before, tried all night to fit a gearbox, many swear words and curses
So yep, checked that more than once

[steak_knife]

christover1 wrote:

I been taking photos to make sure things go back the same way.
Tho I guess that assumes it was right to start with.
Torque converter bolts to flex plate, and slides in with motor.

No, converter has to mate in the pump drive in the g/box first, then stick the eng in & bolt con to flexing plate..

[DSzuke]

christover1 wrote:

Mine had a cover, held on by 2 tiny bolts, 6mm I think, uses 10mm spanner.
Also cover would not come off until the bracing mount came off.
Not sure if the extra braces are a Vit thing, or a auto thing.

Many mechanics leave them off, lose them, whatever, probably why new ones are sold by lowrange etyc.

Thanks mate. I will head back and see if I can find one.

Good luck with your install

[christover1]

steak_knife wrote:

christover1 wrote:

I been taking photos to make sure things go back the same way.
Tho I guess that assumes it was right to start with.
Torque converter bolts to flex plate, and slides in with motor.

No, converter has to mate in the pump drive in the g/box first, then stick the eng in & bolt con to flexing plate..

cheers, worked that out from eveyones help.

Will certainly be a lot easier that way, too.

Thought I had researched this thouroughly, but clearly not

[Scrawny]

christover1 wrote:

Scrawn wrote:

Is the torque converter right in? It may have come out a little bit. If you push on it while turning it around it might just pop back in a bit. May take a few turns

I misunderstood what you meant,
it is now a bit clearer, thanks

I just assumed you were doing it that way

They take a few turns and a bit of pressure to seat properly on the input shaft of the gearbox. You will see when it has seated properly

[christover1]

Cool thanks, wasn't easy to get off, so assumed on could be also be tricky.
Tomorrows another day. And now I know a little bit more than everything

[christover1]

I had to pull engine out back on to floor,
to safely remove the torque converter.
Torque converter did go on all the way onto out put of auto,
with no interference.
Altho fitting correctly was a hell of a lot easier,
it still didnt work.
So out with the engine again (I'm getting good at it)
Spacers for flex plate are different.
Not so much the thickness of inner spacer,
but the length of the centre bit.
One outer spacer was also thicker.
Maybe thats the problem.
It could be fouling on the centre bit.
I'll put it together with the thinner spacers,
and the thinner headed nuts,
and try again

[christover1]

Changing them round didn't seem to make any difference,
was no catching or interfence going on.
Will measure the bits flex plate bolts to, see if anything there is different.

[christover1]

Brett wrote:

put the converter on the flex plate loose, there is 2 bits that has to engage on the converter, some times it needs to move a fair bit to line up.

when its all the way home and box it tightened up turn the engine and converter over 5 or 6 times, that will center it on the flex plate.

I am trying it this way now,
as converter keeps falling out of its position while engine goes in.

I measured all me spacers, not much in it, so used the thinner anyway.

[christover1]

christover1 wrote:

Brett wrote:

put the converter on the flex plate loose, there is 2 bits that has to engage on the converter, some times it needs to move a fair bit to line up.

when its all the way home and box it tightened up turn the engine and converter over 5 or 6 times, that will center it on the flex plate.

I am trying it this way now,
as converter keeps falling out of its position while engine goes in.

I measured all me spacers, not much in it, so used the thinner anyway.

This way worked, 4 bolts are in and it can still rotate

Thank you all,
everyones advice made it go together easily this time.

[christover1]

PS I must remember to do up the flex plate bolts, soon as I can get underneath.

[Scrawny]

[christover1]

Only took 25 minutes from garage floor, to 4 bolts inserted.

What the heck was I doing for the last 2 days

Just swept all the tools off driveway and into the garage,
closed garage door, and walked away....

The rest can wait for the morrow.

Its beer oclock now

[Moph]