[Boneheimer]

Question time again

I'm at the stage in my engine rebuild where i'm about to to put oil in my G16B mpfi - going into SJ413. (This is my first rebuild with no prior experience)
I did a bit of reading on here and had a google, and found that it is better to run in the engine with non-synthetic oil for the first 1000k's or so and then change to preferred engine oil?
(My FSM doesn't say anything about run-in after rebuild)

I also read that I should prime the oil pump, which makes perfect sense, although how to actually do this isn't as simple...
So do I just fill the oil filter with engine oil and pray that it will self prime, or is there something I should do to prime the crank driven oil pump?

Thanks heaps
Hopefully this will help others later down the track as well.

[DAZOOK]

With the engines I've built use running in oil, pull the plugs out and disconnect the distributor and pull the fuel inj relay and crank it until the oil pressure light goes out. Reinstall the plugs, reconnect the distributor and pop the relay back in. Start it up, run it till its warm, dump oil and filter. Put in new running in oil and filter, do your 1000ks and go back to using regular oil.

Hope this helps

[sogone]

Win dazook. Do the same.

[Boneheimer]

Cheers guys, I've also read to keep it at or above 1500rpm for the first 5 mins/until it's warm.

My main concern is with the synthetic/mineral oil and which one to use to allow the piston rings to bed correctly.
In the readings I did it seemed to say that using a synthetic/semi-synthetic oil for the run-in can slow the bedding process and stop them from seating correctly?

DAZOOK wrote:

pull the plugs out and disconnect the distributor and pull the fuel inj relay and crank it until the oil pressure light goes out.

Thanks DAZOOK, i'm guessing that this is done to prime the oil pump? When you say disconnect the distributor, do you just mean the dizzy cap?

[sogone]

Just pulling the leads out should be enough. Ya just tying to stop fuel and spark.

[Boneheimer]

Thanks sogone

[DAZOOK]

Yep, or the the plug on the distributor.

[Vits93]

I know it's for more hi performance stuff using their ductile iron sleeves, but it still might be useful.

http://www.dartonsleeves.com/break_in.htm

[Boneheimer]

Thanks Vits93, the article you pointed me to reinforces the idea of running mineral oil for the run-in.

Quote:

Synthetics work so well that the engine will never break in properly if it is used too soon.

Another thing mentioned is limiting the revs based on the km's, I had to do this with my Aprilia for the first 5000km, so it would make sense to do the same for any piston engine.
I think the key is alternating your rev range in order to avoid glazing your cylinders, whilst not revving the guts out of a fresh engine which would heat up your piston rings and cause excessive wear (low spots) whilst the rings are still bedding in.

[Che]

I used some Repco $20 oil to avoid all the friction modifiers that synthetics and semi-synthetic oils have in them. I did my first oil change at 1000K to expel any metal shavings or other contaminates from the rebuild, more Repco oil went in.

I switched to Magnatec after 5000K - now 10,000K later my engine doesn't use a drop of oil and goes like stink

[shandy92]

i know that this might not be totally relevant but its still useful, when we build engines at work, either a 3.8L or a 15L....the 60L are done the same to, they are filled with decent diesel oil straight out of the bat and are rev'd out to full revs. the revs are not held for longer than a few seconds but still, after that the engines are then dyno's for 1-3hrs depending on engine and have a series of load put on them. starting from zero load to full load and held at full for a good 25-30 mins.

we often get trucky's asking what is need to run them in, and we say just drive it like you would normally.

where i am atm, we re-build up to 4 engines a week, next door is doing 25ish a month!

[Boneheimer]

Haha, good to hear your engine runs like a champ che_guitarra.

What you have done is basically what I seem to find when I search around.
Mineral oil - 0/1000km - Oil Change, inspect for particulates that indicate excessive journal/bearing wear
Mineral oil - 1000/5000km - Oil Change, inspect for particulates
Preferred oil - 5000km/dead engine, Oil change roughly every 5000km or 3 months


Shandy92, pretty relevant I think, when the engines are revved out like that i'm guessing you're running through all of the rev ranges, on full, off, on full?
Do you do that as a sort of pre-bed in for the pistons before you run it on the dyno?
Not being a dick, but are the engines put through this process because you've got a high workload at the moment, or is that your standard process?

Thanks everyone for all the input so far!

[sogone]

Same as most engine workshops can offer you a run in process where they will dump it under various loads for a certain amount of time. Some people prefer it this way. Brand new car aren't run in. They are started on the factory line and left to idle to warm and shut down. Well that's at least what Holden does. I watched a doco on mega factories about the production line.

[shandy92]

Boneheimer wrote:

Shandy92, pretty relevant I think, when the engines are revved out like that i'm guessing you're running through all of the rev ranges, on full, off, on full?
Do you do that as a sort of pre-bed in for the pistons before you run it on the dyno?
Not being a dick, but are the engines put through this process because you've got a high workload at the moment, or is that your standard process?

Thanks everyone for all the input so far!

for truck engine run in we do this: basically we put the truck in high range and the 2nd highest gear (more torque less road speed) and then take the truck to its full RPM which is usually about 2500rpm. then set the dyno for a certain speed, usually 70kph. the dyno will then slowly increase the load on the engine and all you do is keep the revs up.

a comp then tells you the hp and the RPM, once its getting full power you just sit there. if its not getting power the dyno speed is decreased (not exactly sure what that is doing)

this is done with all engines that have been rebuild, if there is enough time we would go for a decent drive up a few of the local hills.

at the very first turn of the key, the engines are rev'd up to get all the air blockages out of the fuel passages in the head. but are not let to idle for more than a few minutes.

[Scrawny]

What engines are these shandy?

[shandy92]

Scrawn wrote:

What engines are these shandy?

the above is a straight 6, 15L, HP rating varies from 400 to 620hp with a touch of a few buttons, very cool. not sure if i should say who i work for but if you know deisel engine then they a company that only makes deisel engines and is ONE of the biggest in the world. and its not cat (westrac)

[Scrawny]

So you're working on the real motors! My guess would be Cummins or Detriot

I sometimes wish I got to see more of the big stuff, I only get mid range and small stuff now.

[shandy92]

Scrawn wrote:

So you're working on the real motors! My guess would be Cummins or Detriot

I sometimes wish I got to see more of the big stuff, I only get mid range and small stuff now.

yeah pretty much, work on stuff as small as 4cly 8.3....still big lol up to v16 60L

[Boneheimer]

Thanks for clarifying shandy, and I'm sure that since you work for a respectable company that this would be common practice for engine run-ins for those with access to a dyno.

I see that the full RPM is still quite low, but I'm guessing the practice would be the same for higher revving engines with having the engine under constant load being the key factor in order to simulate driving conditions?

[shandy92]

Boneheimer wrote:

Thanks for clarifying shandy, and I'm sure that since you work for a respectable company that this would be common practice for engine run-ins for those with access to a dyno.

I see that the full RPM is still quite low, but I'm guessing the practice would be the same for higher revving engines with having the engine under constant load being the key factor in order to simulate driving conditions?

yeah pretty much, because not everyone has there license to take the trucks for a proper drive but the dyno also allows for a continuous load for a certain time.

glad i could help.

p.s- im not a qualified deisel mechanic by any means so dont take my word for as being 100%, im still an apprentice

[Boneheimer]

Cheers mate, even if you're not qualified you have more time with the engines and more knowledge than me, so thanks for the input.

[youda]

If you really wanna get all the shit out throw one of those oil filter magnets (the big wrap around ones) on your oil filter. it is amazing how much shit they hold in the filter. (not a theory something i have actually trialed). I use it for all the bedding in runs when i do a engine rebuild now.