[Damo]

The box section is 50x25 2mm RHS. The plan was to slot the bottom out and weld the shock mount in along the bottom edge. Also to cut the RHS on an angle from the reaf bottom corner to where the top meets the axle tube. Then weld the lot to the housing.

The problem is that i'm starting to think the housing might be opened up along the welds. I Think what I should do is plate the housing, similar to how you'd plate a chassis before welding to it. 2mm flat bar should be heaps for the plating.

[alien]

thats a LOT of leverage on the diff housing!

what about doing it off the u-bolt plates and have the pin facing towards the hub? kinda like mine but turn it 180 degrees would have it in a similar position to what you have there SPUA.

[BlueSuzy]

Make some gussets. once rhs is welded on, weld some gussets on the sides of it and make them wrap around the diff housing more.

[Fatzook]

Why are they so long?

[Rusho]

I got a spare set I bought from LROR that I'm not using if your interested?

[Fatzook]

Rusho wrote:

I got a spare set I bought from LROR that I'm not using if your interested?

same.

[steak_knife]

Fatzook wrote:

Why are they so long?

diff going forward???

[Damo]

Rusho wrote:

I got a spare set I bought from LROR that I'm not using if your interested?

Which ones are they? i'm interested!

The first pic was a little misleading, the mount doesn't need to stick out as far as it looks in that pic.

I cut the RHS down a bit and also trimmed the shock mount. I tacked it into place with the standard spring plate in plate as a comparison. I kinda think it will actually be OK without plating the housing, but would hate to tear the housing open.

If I plate it it'll have to wait to next week as I don't have any material on hand.

Pics of it mocked up:

[alien]

looks a LOT weaker than the factory one IMO... factory is clamped in with the u-bolts and has the perch to stop it twisting etc... yours relys on only a small amount of welding on the diff only.

[Lockie666]

alien wrote:

looks a LOT weaker than the factory one IMO... factory is clamped in with the u-bolts and has the perch to stop it twisting etc... yours relys on only a small amount of welding on the diff only.

They are only shocks, they don't take all of the impact the spring would be taking most of the resistance.

[joel]

what will be the advantage of this? will be handy if moving the diff forward, looks pretty cool.

[alien]

true, but they take TONS of vibration and constant back & forward pressure, plus as the spring cycles the shock levers on the mounts too (even if the bushes absorb it, its still applying a twisting force).

[Damo]

joel wrote:

what will be the advantage of this? will be handy if moving the diff forward, looks pretty cool.

Doing a RUF conversion, Diff will be coming forward slightly.

[Lockie666]

alien wrote:

true, but they take TONS of vibration and constant back & forward pressure, plus as the spring cycles the shock levers on the mounts too (even if the bushes absorb it, its still applying a twisting force).

Might eventually break depending on his welding ability, either way it's a Suzuki it's ment to be broken and welded again hell look at my radius arm mounts

[joel]

Damo wrote:

joel wrote:

what will be the advantage of this? will be handy if moving the diff forward, looks pretty cool.

Doing a RUF conversion, Diff will be coming forward slightly.

im planning on moving my front diff forward, let me know how ya go on this.

[Damo]

joel wrote:

Damo wrote:

joel wrote:

what will be the advantage of this? will be handy if moving the diff forward, looks pretty cool.

Doing a RUF conversion, Diff will be coming forward slightly.

im planning on moving my front diff forward, let me know how ya go on this.

ill be doing a write up once its done

[royce]

I reckon some flat that runs along your open angled section on the top and up over the diff tube some and the same underneath will take care of a lot of the bending force weakening the diff housing

Ive seen really strong and well tested shock mounts fail really quickly when under strain so they are under a decent amount of strain

[Fatzook]

That will be fine damo. I used the same design on my ute for almost 2 years without a problem.

[Damo]

Fatzook wrote:

That will be fine damo. I used the same design on my ute for almost 2 years without a problem.

Cool, I will bring it to you if it breaks

[royce]

hmmm talking about a car that hasnt moved in how long

[Teracis]

So are you mounting these out wider or something? Why do you need to make new shock mounts? Couldn't you just modify the original plates?

I may have missed something here.

[Gwagensteve]

Fatzook wrote:

That will be fine damo. I used the same design on my ute for almost 2 years without a problem.

If it's reasonably well welded it will be fine.

Steve.

[Damo]

Teracis wrote:

So are you mounting these out wider or something? Why do you need to make new shock mounts? Couldn't you just modify the original plates?

I may have missed something here.

I'm doing a RUF conversion on a WT but moving the springs inboard to NT specs. So the upper mounts will be WT and the NT mounts will be NT. I am pretty sure that this will cause me some chassis clearance issues, hence why I want to move them out a little.

[Teracis]

All good, was just wondering why you didn't have them in the original spot, I figured there was some WT+NT stuff going on.

Good luck with it dude!

[Damo]

Gwagensteve wrote:

Fatzook wrote:

That will be fine damo. I used the same design on my ute for almost 2 years without a problem.

If it's reasonably well welded it will be fine.

Steve.

Thanks Steve. I was kinda assuming birdshit and Sikaflex weren't going to cut it this time

Now I have two people to blame if it tears the housing open i'm going to do it this way