[atari4x4]

joeblow wrote:

atari4x4 wrote:

nah, ya mum's useless to me.... i've got one already.

i think polar_bear paid $600 to get the 2 complete bearing carriers machined, stub axles annealed, chopped, resplined & rehardened including the bearing, circlip & seal.

p.s. polar_bear i'll be up your way on the weekend, do you want me do drop in & give you the cash or are you're working tomorrow?

i could have made that from new virgin material for that price!


seriously people, if you are heading down this path DONT cut and shut an axle.

but did you have the facilities to do it 8 months ago when we first went ahead with it?

what we had done was shortening the LHS axle & resplined rather than the cut & shut.

[Polar_Bear]

joeblow wrote:

atari4x4 wrote:

nah, ya mum's useless to me.... i've got one already.

i think polar_bear paid $600 to get the 2 complete bearing carriers machined, stub axles annealed, chopped, resplined & rehardened including the bearing, circlip & seal.

p.s. polar_bear i'll be up your way on the weekend, do you want me do drop in & give you the cash or are you're working tomorrow?

i could have made that from new virgin material for that price!

you could have made it for that, or someone could have paid you that to do the work? i thought we got out of it pretty reasonably.

joeblow wrote:

seriously people, if you are heading down this path DONT cut and shut an axle.

as in cutting up a cv and welding on a flange, or cutting up an axle and re-spline it. Is either of them really that bad, if done properly wouldnt the cv give up before the axle shaft?

[christover1]

Got me stubby sorted.
The actual price was less than quoted.
$240 total including tax
Nice to get a good surprise.

[atari4x4]

is that a 22 spline or 26 spine?

[christover1]

22 spline, which is ok, mine is a 22 spline front end...thought about going to 26, but that meant chasing up more parts, when I had tons of 22 stuff lying around. I think it will be ok.

[christover1]

About to go chase up a housing mount bolt, with less protrusion, maybe an allen key type, for clearance for the flange.

[christover1]

Stubby All done Pix Here

[atari4x4]

so i'm nearly done, with the bolt in RHS CV mod.

the bearing carrier is mounted, holes drilled & tapped... just need to reseal up the diff & refit it. we had to increase the circlip groove as it's slightly in the wrong spot on the original drawing for the size of the bearing or the internal circlip is fatter than the drawing & he also had reduce the length of the large spigot so the outer flange part would would bottom out in the housing.

the stub axle seems good, just need to chase up the little spring clip from the bit we had chopped off the LHS axle... the little buggers are a different size to the one RHS CV stub & the groove looks like it was cut for the LHS spring clip.

also spent a few hours of modding the calmini diff drop bracket to suit the SV420, infact pretty much ended up recreating a complete new bracket.

looking at the lengths of the Right & Left CV's + the bearing carrier/stub axle flange it appears that I will also have to run a RHS CV with the left hand bolt on cup to get it all to work.... spewing i ordered a complete LHS CV before doing the swap.

bearing carrier & bearing mounted.





custom diff drop bracket.



stopped past my friendly suzuki dealership & stole their last spring clip thingo... i'm pretty sure it's the cheapest SGP that they have listed on their computers, $4.75

[atari4x4]

the spring clip groove wasn't machined deep enough by the guy who did the cutting & resplining, a trip to the other side of town to chuck it in my brothers lathe fixed that pretty quick.

had to make up a combo drive shaft using the RHS CV with the LHS flange, so it kind of defeats the purpose of only carrying one spare CV around but it does make track side repairs a lot easier.

ended up having to drill & tap another hole in the diff housing & diff drop bracket as the original hole & bolt was going to get hit by the flange & bolts when spinning & had to thin down the heads on the bolts that bolt the CV to the flange...

a massive amount of work has gone into getting it done & while it's not 100% as expected with the CV's I'm glad it's done & knowing that the RHS is supported by a bearing gives me peace of mind & the ability to swap the right hand side CV with out having to pull everything off is a bonus.

[christover1]

Will be adding these to my front end.
Not only will they correct castor, from the lift, they will also give me a few more mm of room for the axle conversion

[inbits]

With this mod is it meant to make the rhs cv removable while the car is still on it's own weight. I tried to remove the lhs cv and it fouled on the A arm I still had to undo the strut to get it out.

I don't want to spend the money on this mod if you have to use a combo of left and right cvs and notbe able to change it easily

[atari4x4]

inbits wrote:

With this mod is it meant to make the rhs cv removable while the car is still on it's own weight. I tried to remove the lhs cv and it fouled on the A arm I still had to undo the strut to get it out.

I don't want to spend the money on this mod if you have to use a combo of left and right cvs and notbe able to change it easily

you must be doing it wrong, or it might only be able if it's lifted?

both left & right CV's come out of mine with it on the ground.

[christover1]

I have to turn the steering to the direction of the cv I want to remove,
then they come out easily with car still on all wheels.
But a jack under the chassis a bit does help when you have no lift.

I use 2 lhs cv/axles with no problem.

[inbits]

I have 60mm lift but I only have standard struts with top mount flip when I pit it back together I'll try turning the wheel and see if that helps

[inbits]

When i was under my vit on friday night installing my steel housing I noticed that the diff mount rubbers are incredibly soft. From what i can see if you were to install urethane bushes instead of the stock rubber ones it would stiffen it up and prevent the alloy housing from exploding.

this is also a good idea

It seems that guys in the US are running alloy housing and 3rd members with either airlocked diffs or welded diffs on 35's and they are holding up

[atari4x4]

inbits wrote:

It seems that guys in the US are running alloy housing and 3rd members with either airlocked diffs or welded diffs on 35's and they are holding up

got link/links?

[inbits]

This is one you posted in timbo's thread
http://bbs.zuwharrie.com/content/topic, ... 0/all.html

while this the best option it will help people on a tight budget

There is also a good write up on converting a sierra housing to fit the vit front for the people with the tools and know how to do it

[atari4x4]

cool, i remember the link but didn't see the the pic of it on 35's.

[inbits]

From what i can see is that the housing is able to rotate too far under load and then snaps the alloy third member .

Might be worth somone trying i have a steel diff now i just need the bits to finish it so i wont be trying it.

[inbits]

I'm thinking about making one of the bearing carriers for my steel
Diff conversion but instead of using the circlip and drilling and tapping the housing use loctite to retain them. And to remove it all it would need is some heat applied this would save removing the diff and pulling it apart to drill and tap it

Thoughts?

[atari4x4]

you need the circlip on the spline to retain the stub axle in the diff centre.

[inbits]

Yeah that one Is fine but for the bearing carrier thing (retain bearing in carrier with loctite and retain carrier into housing with loctite)
Make sense?

[swifty_ano]

Can anyone help.

I just ordered the GV bush off Bruce. I must be doing something wrong but when I try and put the centre in it hits on the bush and won't go in

[christover1]

swifty_ano wrote:

Can anyone help.

I just ordered the GV bush off Bruce. I must be doing something wrong but when I try and put the centre in it hits on the bush and won't go in

The bush goes in from the outside,
try fitting the centre first, then the bush.

And make sure diff centre is right way up, also.

[swifty_ano]

All the pictures I've seen have been inside the diff. If its from the outside the deal has no where to go

[atari4x4]

pretty sure it goes in from the outside & hole down from memory

[christover1]

swifty_ano wrote:

All the pictures I've seen have been inside the diff. If its from the outside the deal has no where to go

You may be right. It's a while since I did it.
I will check my photos out.

[swifty_ano]

Got it. Just gotta stop being a girl

[atari4x4]

swifty_ano wrote:

Got it. Just gotta stop being a girl

which way did it go in?

[christover1]