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Post Posted: Fri Dec 16, 2011 8:10 pm 
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I am planning a big install of a heap of electrical in the Jimny. Second horn with 1/Off/2 switch, Rear LED work light with Reverse/Off/Work switch, AC Fan switch AC/Off/On, Rear Accessories sockets with Ammeter etc.

I reckon I'd like to use Carling Contura II switches with 1 or 2 (for On/Off;On/Off/On) lenses and custom screen printing. Found an ebay seller who does close to what I want for around $22 each.

Question is, Is there a cheaper supplier, or can I buy the blank switches/actuators and do the screen printing myself and how?

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Last edited by Bugsta on Wed Dec 21, 2011 12:19 pm, edited 2 times in total.
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Post Posted: Fri Dec 16, 2011 8:12 pm 
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Google "custom rockers"

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Post Posted: Fri Dec 16, 2011 8:17 pm 
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http://www.customrockers.com.au/epages/cucu3398.sf

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Post Posted: Fri Dec 16, 2011 10:24 pm 
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Bruce wrote:
http://www.customrockers.com.au/epages/cucu3398.sf


dyslexia's fun some time's.... :lol:

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Post Posted: Fri Dec 16, 2011 11:08 pm 
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A whip strobe?? :roll:

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Post Posted: Fri Dec 16, 2011 11:36 pm 
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I got about six switches thru that custom rockers mob, they seem to be fine.

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Post Posted: Fri Dec 16, 2011 11:47 pm 
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I have 4 custom ones on Casper :-)

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Post Posted: Sat Dec 17, 2011 6:35 am 
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Bruce wrote:
I have 4 custom ones on Casper :-)


Hope royce wired em... 8O

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Post Posted: Sat Dec 17, 2011 6:36 am 
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steak_knife wrote:
Bruce wrote:
I have 4 custom ones on Casper :-)


Hope royce wired em... 8O


who else would do it, bruce just drinks piss and yells instructions.

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Post Posted: Sat Dec 17, 2011 6:37 am 
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steak_knife wrote:
Bruce wrote:
I have 4 custom ones on Casper :-)


Hope royce wired em... 8O


:wink: Fuck Royce won't let me near wires anymore :oops:

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Post Posted: Sat Dec 17, 2011 6:49 am 
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How do I get the centre vertical dash panel apart on the late Jim and how do I get the little plastic cap out of its hole beside the 4WD buttons.

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Post Posted: Sat Dec 17, 2011 7:18 am 
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Bugsta wrote:
How do I get the centre vertical dash panel apart on the late Jim and how do I get the little plastic cap out of its hole beside the 4WD buttons.


Leaver out then pull.....

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Post Posted: Sat Dec 17, 2011 7:21 am 
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steak_knife wrote:

Leaver out then pull.....


you say that to all the girls!

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Post Posted: Wed Dec 21, 2011 12:17 pm 
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Ok, so I am designing the circuits for all that I want to do.

First segment is dual horns. Geting a cool Stebel Nautilus for xmas.

I'm sure it can be done with one 3 position switch and one new changeover relay. Switch options are SPDT/DPDT Centre off or SPTT.

Objectives:
Switch Pos 1 + Horn button = Horn 1
Switch Pos 2 + Horn button + 4WD mode OFF = Horn 1
Switch Pos 2 + Horn button + 4WD mode ON = No Horn
Switch Pos 3 + Horn button = Horn 2

This 4WD mode state is so that on the road in 2WD, a horn will always be active so I don't get caught out, but whilst off road I can disable the horns so I don't keep tooting when maneuvering.

Switching the horns is the easy part. Bringing in the 4WD status into the equation is the complex bit.

I have a good idea how to go about it but need some insignt into how the 4WD system works. I either need a wire that is pulled to and latched to earth or +12v when in 4WD mode, or perhaps in 2WD mode. I am positive that the 4WD and 2WD dash buttons are only momentary so they are of no use. I am also sure that the dash indicator flashes under certain circumstances, so thats no help either.

I don't get how the Vacuum switch is actuated. It is shown as a NC earthing switch, so perhaps I could pull it high with a resistor when open, but how does this switch work. And the circuit mentions nothing about the 2WD or 4WDL switch, so there must be something missing?

Other options are to use the 2WD or 4WD shift vacuum switching valve signal wire (common 12v, so earthed through the ECU when activated I assume) ARe these momentary or latched?

I have a basic circuit in mind which requires keeping a N.O. signal high with a resistor and it gets latched low (and latched) when in 4WD mode. I just don't know how the ECU will like its signal being pulled high.

Any insight please?

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Post Posted: Wed Dec 21, 2011 8:09 pm 
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Holy crap, does it really need to be that complicated?

All you want to do is isolate the horn circuit when you're in 4wd. So use the 4wd light circuit to run a NC relay. 4wd light comes on, relay goes open circuit, no more power to horn and no tooting.

And btw, do you really toot that much??? Seems a bit OTT

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Post Posted: Wed Dec 21, 2011 8:56 pm 
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No tooting lately because my clock spring has been broken, but yes, I found my arm brushing the wheel centre quite a lot, and it is sensitive.

Your suggestion however, would require a third relay. I don't want to pass 18 amps through the switch. It would also not allow horn selection when in 4WD mode.

The circuit in reality won't be that complex. Its just knowing how the 4WD signals works and making use of the appropriate line.

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Post Posted: Wed Dec 21, 2011 9:23 pm 
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It's too complex and all you are doing is creating a thread for people to try and fill with half baked ideas which will just confuse other people later on

fit the stebel, learn how to drive offroad so you arent headbutting the horn

seems pretty simple to me

the fact you cant work out that somewhere something will be telling something to do something with 12v kind of excludes you from calling the circuit not too complex

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Post Posted: Thu Dec 22, 2011 12:36 am 
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Ok, forget the rest as I know how switchers and relays work - How do the signals from the ECU to the various 4WD system controls work? Will they be affected if I pull them high, or low with a resistor.

That really is the point of my questions. Just thought people might like to know why I am asking and be interested in what I am trying to achieve and how, for future reference. Once again - I thought these objectives were the point of an open forum. I seem to be getting this wrong a lot lately.

It actually doesn't matter to me that you think its a silly idea. I'm doing it anyway.

Oh, and I didn't say headbutting.

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Post Posted: Thu Dec 22, 2011 1:34 am 
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I dont see he point of both horns, a nautilus is a perfectly legal horn, jimnys already have a relay for the horn so just remove the stock one and fit it, there is 50% of your circuit removed

Now to the 4wd part, so you want to turn it off unless you need to turn it on? Also too complex, just fit a switch to disable the horn, make it light up when the horn is off to remind you

I am sure youll get a decent 12v supply able to drive a relay if you really want to go down your route from the vacuum solenoid for the hubs or at the tcase

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Post Posted: Thu Dec 22, 2011 11:02 am 
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Ok, Thanks for your input.

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Post Posted: Thu Dec 22, 2011 12:02 pm 
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do the custom rockers switches fit in the stock jimny blanks?

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Post Posted: Thu Dec 22, 2011 1:04 pm 
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I have 3 ARB locker switches, which are Carling, in the top 3 positions on the right. Had to file the recessed holes out a little, but aside from that they are a snug fit.

There are no more spaces, so I might purchase a 3 switch shroud and mount it below the mirror control. I may want a fourth button so will have to find another spot for that...

Horn, AC Fan, Reverse/Work light and Rear ACC.

What I want to do with the rear ACC is have a load indicator, but I might just put in a Ammeter, so I know when my fridge is on.

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Post Posted: Thu Dec 22, 2011 6:54 pm 
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U need a light to tell u when u turned your fridge on?

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Post Posted: Thu Dec 22, 2011 7:35 pm 
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thanks mate, sorry for hijacking

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Post Posted: Fri Dec 23, 2011 2:37 am 
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I had a novelty horn in my sierra, I devised a cunning system for it. using the existing horn. With a flick of a single pole single throw switch it would engage the novelty horn which was operated from the steering wheel as per normal horn.

I can't remember exactly how I did it, I had the schematic scribbled down, but I left that with the car when I sold it.

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Post Posted: Fri Dec 23, 2011 6:33 am 
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foonji wrote:
I had a novelty horn in my sierra, I devised a cunning system for it. using the existing horn. With a flick of a single pole single throw switch it would engage the novelty horn which was operated from the steering wheel as per normal horn.

I can't remember exactly how I did it, I had the schematic scribbled down, but I left that with the car when I sold it.


Yeah that would probably just be to engage a changeover relay to the second horn.

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Post Posted: Fri Dec 23, 2011 6:37 am 
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gypsy wrote:
U need a light to tell u when u turned your fridge on?

What I actually said was...
Bugsta wrote:
What I want to do with the rear ACC is have a load indicator, but I might just put in a Ammeter, so I know when my fridge is on.

This will show when something is drawing power, to remind me so I don't leave it on indefinitely. I'm not in that habbit, just a precaution really.

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Post Posted: Fri Dec 23, 2011 6:38 am 
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jonno_racing wrote:
thanks mate, sorry for hijacking

Not a problem. This thread was originaly about the Carling switches anyways :)

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Post Posted: Fri Dec 23, 2011 12:25 pm 
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ive got them from here

http://order.waytekwire.com/scategory2/ ... /Switches/

they are cheap as chips, but they dont stock every colour lights in the lens, or do them screen printed

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Post Posted: Sat Dec 24, 2011 3:52 am 
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Yeah I have been looking at them to. I also found a UK companby that do a printed vynil sheet.

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