[kemlar]

No worries. Just my experience though. But I would start there, and if you can get it under warrenty, why not.

[Bab81c]

Yep, free is always best, but I am not waiting for mods! Already waited long enough for them to get delivered, If not shims after mods will have to do. Cheers!

[monley]

Mines got it's 12month service this month and i will get a wheel balance and aliment before it goes in cus it's bad atm, the rtc helped big to reduce the wobble but there is still a wobble. If it is still there i will get them to put him on, but i don't think i will get it under warranty with the few mods i have

[kemlar]

Does your Suzuki place do wheel alignments? Cause it might be better to do the alignment after the shims. Not that they should put it out much anyway.
My Suzuki place dosent do alignments at their workshop and didnt do one after.

[monley]

kemlar wrote:

Does your Suzuki place do wheel alignments? Cause it might be better to do the alignment after the shims. Not that they should put it out much anyway.
My Suzuki place dosent do alignments at their workshop and didnt do one after.

Not sure i want to get it done before in case the wobble goes away. so i don't have to pay for the shim kit

[steak_knife]

kemlar wrote:

Does your Suzuki place do wheel alignments? Cause it might be better to do the alignment after the shims. Not that they should put it out much anyway.
My Suzuki place dosent do alignments at their workshop and didnt do one after.

At all, doesn't change the alignment one bit.....

[kemlar]

True.. But read my story... They don't really sound like they know what they are doing any way. Just hope Suzuki don't follow the same standard all over Australia.

[smiffkid]

well our jimny had a death wobble the other day, caused from panhard mount being warn, welded new plate in problem solved, drives like a street car once again

[zukenutter]

smiffkid wrote:

well our jimny had a death wobble the other day, caused from panhard mount being warn, welded new plate in problem solved, drives like a street car once again

It'll be back. Pesky friggin' wobble.
I'm still having the wobble occasionally but this time it's caused by the rotors.

[smiffkid]

well we haven had a problem since fitting the rtc about 3 yrs,
the car has dne 260000km and still seems alright, only time notice a slight wobble is if tires are bald

[zukenutter]

I've been having some wobble again, still only when jumping hard on the brakes at 75km. I attacked all the contact surfaces on the rotors and hubs with a grinder with wire brush, put it back together to find the wobble was worse. I decided to try rotating the wheel by a couple of lugs and found the wobble to be much reduced, spent another four hours trying different positions with no further improvement. Definitely different results which got me thinking about on car wheel balancing.

After much frustration I removed the panhard. Definitely got quite a bit of wear in the bushes so I'll replace them soon when I get a chance. Also going to swap in some new wheel bearings in the new year. I think while I have it all apart that I may as well do a king pin and scraper seal kit. I have a set of brand new early Jimny rotors that need some machining to fit, so I'll get this sorted as well.

Hopefully then it'll be good for a while then.

[steak_knife]

zukenutter wrote:

I've been having some wobble again, still only when jumping hard on the brakes at 75km. I attacked all the contact surfaces on the rotors and hubs with a grinder with wire brush, put it back together to find the wobble was worse. I decided to try rotating the wheel by a couple of lugs and found the wobble to be much reduced, spent another four hours trying different positions with no further improvement. Definitely different results which got me thinking about on car wheel balancing.

After much frustration I removed the panhard. Definitely got quite a bit of wear in the bushes so I'll replace them soon when I get a chance. Also going to swap in some new wheel bearings in the new year. I think while I have it all apart that I may as well do a king pin and scraper seal kit. I have a set of brand new early Jimny rotors that need some machining to fit, so I'll get this sorted as well.

Hopefully then it'll be good for a while then.

Not a good idea, either get em machined or replace em.....

[atari4x4]

after seeing the wobble that the battle truck mkII (GU on 35s') had on the way back from beachport with stuffed panhard rod bushes, i'd be replacing them first.

[zukenutter]

atari4x4 wrote:

after seeing the wobble that the battle truck mkII (GU on 35s') had on the way back from beachport with stuffed panhard rod bushes, i'd be replacing them first.

Pretty sure it'll be the main culprit.

steak_knife wrote:

zukenutter wrote:

I've been having some wobble again, still only when jumping hard on the brakes at 75km. I attacked all the contact surfaces on the rotors and hubs with a grinder with wire brush, put it back together to find the wobble was worse. I decided to try rotating the wheel by a couple of lugs and found the wobble to be much reduced, spent another four hours trying different positions with no further improvement. Definitely different results which got me thinking about on car wheel balancing.

After much frustration I removed the panhard. Definitely got quite a bit of wear in the bushes so I'll replace them soon when I get a chance. Also going to swap in some new wheel bearings in the new year. I think while I have it all apart that I may as well do a king pin and scraper seal kit. I have a set of brand new early Jimny rotors that need some machining to fit, so I'll get this sorted as well.

Hopefully then it'll be good for a while then.

Not a good idea, either get em machined or replace em.....

Didn't mean the friction surfaces. Surfaces between rotor and hub, rotor and wheel

[joel]

royce wrote:

FWIF every 4wd that uses the same design front end wobbles, google Patrol Steering Shimmy, puts the Jimnys problem to shame!

oh wow, i had a gu patrol before i got into zooks, holy fuck, at 80kmh i used to hold onto my big akubra and see if i could ride that bitch for 8.5 seconds,
jeeeeezaass, was easier to do 70kmh or 90kmh, just not 80, sold the car, and it still has the same prob.

[steak_knife]

zukenutter wrote:

Didn't mean the friction surfaces. Surfaces between rotor and hub, rotor and wheel

Buy new rotor's & pad's mate...

[zukenutter]

steak_knife wrote:

zukenutter wrote:

Didn't mean the friction surfaces. Surfaces between rotor and hub, rotor and wheel

Buy new rotor's & pad's mate...

Front end is getting a full rebuild first week of January.
Already have new rotors although a bit of machining is required. New pads are also a great idea.

Have you come across this size difference before?

VVT Jimny



Non VVT Jimny

[steak_knife]

Did your ole one have ABS???

Does you new one have it???

But no, I've never seen that, sell em mate & get new one's....

[zukenutter]

Neither have/had abs. You don't think machining the centre is a good idea? How come?

I can't find any after market so would need to be genuine

[steak_knife]

zukenutter wrote:

Neither have/had abs. You don't think machining the centre is a good idea? How come?

I can't find any after market so would need to be genuine

I doubt you will find anyone to do it....
Have you measured EVERY other thing on the rotor's to be sure that's the only difference??

[zukenutter]

steak_knife wrote:

zukenutter wrote:

Neither have/had abs. You don't think machining the centre is a good idea? How come?

I can't find any after market so would need to be genuine

I doubt you will find anyone to do it....
Have you measured EVERY other thing on the rotor's to be sure that's the only difference??

I know a machinist who'll find this to be one of their easiest jobs in years
Will check all measurements though, measure twice cut once. Will give them the genuine rotor too as I don't 100% trust my $29 digital caliper.

So you don't think I could just use a file

[royce]

zukenutter wrote:

steak_knife wrote:

zukenutter wrote:

Neither have/had abs. You don't think machining the centre is a good idea? How come?

I can't find any after market so would need to be genuine

I doubt you will find anyone to do it....
Have you measured EVERY other thing on the rotor's to be sure that's the only difference??

I know a machinist who'll find this to be one of their easiest jobs in years
Will check all measurements though, measure twice cut once. Will give them the genuine rotor too as I don't 100% trust my $29 digital caliper.

So you don't think I could just use a file

That hole is the point that all other machining runs from, but any other surface that you might attach the rotors to aren't usually machined to the same precision so I dunno where he will get a point to work from without spending forever on a dial gauge getting it concentric

Any other point needed machining yeah but that seems like hard work for making rotors fit, why not just machine your old ones?

[zukenutter]

I hate machined rotors (as in braking surface), call it just fussy but I've always preferred new.

I'll price genuine from Suzuki but I'll also see what the machinist says.

[royce]

Saying you hate machined rotors is like saying you will only drink milk from an unopened carton, they are designed to be machined, its called servicing.

[zukenutter]

royce wrote:

Saying you hate machined rotors is like saying you will only drink milk from an unopened carton, they are designed to be machined, its called servicing.

More like I don't want the crap at the bottom of the carton.

Designed to be machined yes. Getting the best out of fixing my front end, no.

[royce]

zukenutter wrote:

royce wrote:

Saying you hate machined rotors is like saying you will only drink milk from an unopened carton, they are designed to be machined, its called servicing.

More like I don't want the crap at the bottom of the carton.

Designed to be machined yes. Getting the best out of fixing my front end, no.

Your logic is flawed and surprising really, I get that we are in a throw away society and people dont understand the term repair any more but this is one part that is totally designed to be resurfaced and used again!

your car wont stop any worse, it wont wobble any different, hell they may even run truer than an out of the box set!

[zukenutter]

royce wrote:

zukenutter wrote:

royce wrote:

Saying you hate machined rotors is like saying you will only drink milk from an unopened carton, they are designed to be machined, its called servicing.

More like I don't want the crap at the bottom of the carton.

Designed to be machined yes. Getting the best out of fixing my front end, no.

Your logic is flawed and surprising really, I get that we are in a throw away society and people dont understand the term repair any more but this is one part that is totally designed to be resurfaced and used again!

your car wont stop any worse, it wont wobble any different, hell they may even run truer than an out of the box set!

Royce there's nothing flawed with my logic, when you have to turn back from holidays and take another car you may understand. Everybody doesn't have to think the same as you. If I want a fresh start why can't you just give feedback based on my choice. In my experience (of course much less experience than you) the caliper piston has to extend further for clamping and I'm trying to have as little opportunity for any unwanted movement as possible.

I always appreciate your input and have taken plenty on board but a lecture about something like this seems like a soap box moment.
Worthwhile info though and I'm sure some guys will find it very useful.

[zuk85]

Hey everyone. i got my wobbles back a few months back. after all the rebuilds and replacing and bullshit!!

I put the car up on the hoists at work and got into it with the head mechanic. as soon as we got the car up gave the wheel a wobble < > side to side movement and MY GOD was loose as a goose!!!

checked wheels bearings all sweeet!! checked ties rod ends have small play in draglink to pitman arm tie-rod.

so we went to the steering box as i said it been running 235's from the show room floor, was a demo model with 80km on clock and started doing it about 1 year after getting it slighty now its hell bad.

so we adjusted the steering box, total of 1min exactly. checked the free play in the wheels.

AND HEY PRESTO fuckin tight as a nun. and no BLOODY WOBBLES!!!!

had a slight wobble around 70km/hr put the tyres on the balancer and they where out a bit so fixed em up and,

ohhhhhhhhhhhh yeaaaaaaaaaa mack daddy!!

[zuk85]

royce wrote:

zukenutter wrote:

royce wrote:

Saying you hate machined rotors is like saying you will only drink milk from an unopened carton, they are designed to be machined, its called servicing.

More like I don't want the crap at the bottom of the carton.

Designed to be machined yes. Getting the best out of fixing my front end, no.

Your logic is flawed and surprising really, I get that we are in a throw away society and people dont understand the term repair any more but this is one part that is totally designed to be resurfaced and used again!

your car wont stop any worse, it wont wobble any different, hell they may even run truer than an out of the box set!

nothing wrong with using machined rotors but it does come down to personal prefference,

but in saying that the rotors still need to be within the minimum size allowance. 8mm min thickness for jimny i think?
one thing also though with rotors being machined is they are more likely to start to warp, as the hardend surface has been taken off.

and I wouldnt say we are a totally throw away society, more of the stuff we use is recycled then used again so no difference really......

[zukenutter]

A bit of an update for future reference.
I've tried a few suppliers of aftermarket rotors in the hunt for replacements for my VVT Jimny with no luck. Most manufacturers have misinformation in their catalogues. I've priced genuine and almost fell over backwards when I heard the price tag of $274......... EACH!!
Royce it looks like I'll be getting them machined after all.