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jbonevia
Joined: Thu Sep 11, 2008 11:30 pm Posts: 15 Location: Sydney
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 Posted: Sun Jan 25, 2009 6:14 pm |
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OK so how the fudge do you get the rear flange off the transfer case? Any tricks?
I have a leaking seal from behind the flange, i dropped the tailshaft off and got to the big nut on the back of the tcase but i couldnt get the nut off.
Doesnt help i dont have a compressor or a rattle gun, i tried a big breaker bar but couldnt get the nut to come undone.
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lump_a_charcoal

az supporter
Joined: Wed Feb 28, 2007 10:30 pm Posts: 4454 Location: Botany, NSW
Vehicle: MY2019 Jimny
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 Posted: Sun Jan 25, 2009 7:11 pm |
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I think a rattle gun will be the best way, maybe an electric one would do the trick?
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Damo

az supporter
Joined: Sat Jul 22, 2006 11:30 pm Posts: 4661 Location: Brisbane
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 Posted: Sun Jan 25, 2009 7:29 pm |
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The output shaft has 2 slots milled into it, they are about 3mm wide and opposite each other. During installation of the nut it is punched to lock it in place. If the nut has been punched quite deep you may find it helpful to lever it out of the milled slot a little before trying to undo it.
In my experience a rattle gun does come in handy. A large breaker bar may also do the trick.
_________________ SJ50.4.LYF
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Pubic

az supporter
Joined: Sat Feb 23, 2008 10:30 pm Posts: 1303
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 Posted: Sun Jan 25, 2009 7:34 pm |
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a bit of pipe off the breaker bar for extra leverage always helps pain in the arse bolts
_________________ Web wheeler extroadinaire
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jbonevia
Joined: Thu Sep 11, 2008 11:30 pm Posts: 15 Location: Sydney
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 Posted: Sun Jan 25, 2009 8:17 pm |
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cool, i noticed the nut had the sides punched in, tried to lever the indents out and snapped the point of the screwdriver off in there!
Is there a good way to lock the tcase? i just put it in 4L but noticed there was still 'flex' in the gears when trying to undo the nut.
Tried the long breaker bar trick but might have to jack the car up a bit to get better leverage.
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keechox
Joined: Sat Dec 29, 2007 10:30 pm Posts: 242 Location: launceston Tasmania
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 Posted: Sun Jan 25, 2009 9:55 pm |
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ive got the same problem at the moment, i pulled the transfer out to change front input flange seal, used the rattle gun to no avail.... im now going to put it back in and hang off the end of a very very long breaker bar
_________________ 85 NT, SPOA, 2" BL, sliders, f&r lockers, bull bar
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royce

omnipotent being
Joined: Sun Jun 11, 2006 11:30 pm Posts: 17216 Location: Pluto
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 Posted: Sun Jan 25, 2009 10:31 pm |
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you could *cough* put some pipe over the bar and wedge it against the correct chassis rail so when you drive a little in low 4 it jams against the chassis rail *cough*
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want33s

az supporter
Joined: Fri Nov 16, 2007 10:30 pm Posts: 8134 Location: Sunshine Coast Qld
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 Posted: Sun Jan 25, 2009 11:24 pm |
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Drill two holes in a piece of angle iron and bolt it to the flange then put a socket and breaker bar (with extension pipe) on the nut to undo it.
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Trojan
Joined: Mon May 26, 2008 11:30 pm Posts: 390
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 Posted: Mon Jan 26, 2009 12:37 am |
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jbonevia wrote: Tried the long breaker bar trick but might have to jack the car up a bit to get better leverage.
Don't jack your car up for better leverage, use the jack for better leverage.
Pretty much running on the idea of what Royce suggested but a little different. Put the Breaker bar on the nut in such a way it sits fairly flat, then place the jack under the breaker bar and use the jack to push on the breaker bar. it will either come off or you'll break something.
Done it in the past on troublesome nuts underneath and it works good, without putting in to much effort.
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lump_a_charcoal

az supporter
Joined: Wed Feb 28, 2007 10:30 pm Posts: 4454 Location: Botany, NSW
Vehicle: MY2019 Jimny
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 Posted: Mon Jan 26, 2009 12:39 am |
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Lots of WD40 as well, let it soak in for half an hour first...
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kenn
Joined: Tue Nov 11, 2008 10:30 pm Posts: 1202 Location: Melbourne
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 Posted: Mon Jan 26, 2009 1:15 am |
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Heat the nut up with a blow torch or similar then put ice on the end of shaft,then try your big breaker bar.. if simple physics doesn't help take it to a mechanic...
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brendan
Joined: Sun Jul 27, 2008 11:30 pm Posts: 1484 Location: Sydney
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 Posted: Tue Jan 27, 2009 4:33 am |
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i used a good rattle gun and an oxy set. had to get the nut red hot
_________________ navara on 33s. hopfully rear air locker soon
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Rockhopper
Joined: Sun Jun 22, 2008 11:30 pm Posts: 1265 Location: Chipping Norton
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 Posted: Tue Jan 27, 2009 10:59 am |
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If at first you don't succeed, go bigger  If you can't get the nut off with a decent 1/2" rattlegun, beg borrow or steal a 3/4" rattlegun.
_________________ We're riding in the Ninky Nonk!
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zookernator
Joined: Sun Mar 16, 2008 10:30 pm Posts: 813 Location: Tasmania
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 Posted: Tue Jan 27, 2009 1:27 pm |
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i also had this problem a few weeks back.. i got some RHS, drilled 2 holes in it that lined up with any of the holes on the flange, bolted it on, then had the RHS long enough to crash against the chassis. Worked a treat!!

_________________ F&R ARB air lockers, lux diffs, 4 link coil rear,
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want33s

az supporter
Joined: Fri Nov 16, 2007 10:30 pm Posts: 8134 Location: Sunshine Coast Qld
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 Posted: Tue Jan 27, 2009 4:13 pm |
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Good work Liam, thats what I do to remove them but your picture explains it more clearly.
I like the Copyright by the way! 
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jbonevia
Joined: Thu Sep 11, 2008 11:30 pm Posts: 15 Location: Sydney
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 Posted: Thu Jan 29, 2009 4:48 pm |
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Thanks guys, gonna try again this weekend, will try the RHS method or failing that i might give royce's suggestion a try!
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