[Zook_Fan]

yeah i think they are still kicking round the back yard. will check tomorrow for you and measure them again without load

[zookernator]

Woo Hoo!! (fingers crossed) Thanks mate!

[brendan]

ive got half ruf. i run stock zook rear springs and they sit dead flat. but i do have a winch and bar so thats probably why they sit flat

[zookernator]

pretty sure the problem with my springs is cause they must be lifted.. hopefully i can get a set of dead flat ones..

[brendan]

IMO if you buy a set that are dead flat with no load when put under load they are going to invert and you will be back at the start

[zookernator]

brendan wrote:

IMO if you buy a set that are dead flat with no load when put under load they are going to invert and you will be back at the start

im after a set that are flat when loaded.. sorry for the confusion!!

[Zook_Fan]

ok well i double checked the measurements just now and they came up with:
no load at all: 145mm
with less then 80kg on them (me ) : 100mm
i no for a fact that they were almost flat before i took them out of the car and with more weight like the winch and bar over the top of them im sure they will do the same for you

when the car was flexed slightly on a single car ramp they bend like this:


and a bad pic but you can see how flat they are here too:

[zookernator]

woo hoo!! Sounding good!! Thanks heaps!! Are they standard zook ones do you know?? How many leaves are in them?? And how did you measure them?? Thanks again mate.. and pm sent!!

[Mike]

i got a set of rears that with no load that are 120mm

[zookernator]

shit mate.. this is all good news!! Where did you measure them from.. and do they have the load leaves in them still?? These sound alot more suitable.. and closer!!

[Mike]

i measured them like you showed in your noobcad pic yeah they have got load leaves in them

[Zook_Fan]

yeah my spring packs are complete and where measured same as yours did.

[zookernator]

hhmmmm.. might take some working out hey! So you have already got a chassis ext?? I ended up buying the springs off Zook Fan. I Just came up with an idea for my setup.. im going to take off the front hanger, then get a piece of flat bar ?(125X60X6)? and run under the chassis (where the hanger was), and extend it forward, so when i weld the hanger back on.. it will be 2" forward. I will then make up 2 gussets (per side), which will go back to the chassis. Seems as though the shackle angle will be sweet at the end of it all too.. Hope my beautiful artistic skills makes sense!!

[Zook_Fan]

springs are in the mail!!

[Mike]

so that means your gonna have to modify your front bar mounts too

[mike_nofx]

want33s wrote:

Half RUF is probably the best bang for buck solution.
Get a pair of rear Zook springs.
Redrill the rear of the front spring mounts back 20mm and up 20mm and fit longer shackles... About 100mm between bolt centres instead of stock 60mm.
25mm bumpstop extensions and away you go.
This moves the diff forward 25mm from standard.


Jas.

My spring hangers look a fair bit wider than yours... I was able to drill 22mm back and still have plenty of meat left. Mines a 90' WT Sierra, whats yours?

Mike

[zookernator]

Mike wrote:

so that means your gonna have to modify your front bar mounts too

Nope.. wont go that far across.. you can sort of see what i mean in this pic (just forget the missing link design).. not a very good pic though sorry

[Zook_Fan]

u get my last pm?

[zookernator]

Zook_Fan wrote:

u get my last pm?

Pm replied!! hehe, i wouldnt do the dodgy on anyone champ

[Zook_Fan]

wasnt thinking that just wanted to make sure you got the tracking number

[zookernator]

hahaha.. love ya work

[want33s]

mike_nofx wrote:

want33s wrote:

Half RUF is probably the best bang for buck solution.
Get a pair of rear Zook springs.
Redrill the rear of the front spring mounts back 20mm and up 20mm and fit longer shackles... About 100mm between bolt centres instead of stock 60mm.
25mm bumpstop extensions and away you go.
This moves the diff forward 25mm from standard.


Jas.

My spring hangers look a fair bit wider than yours... I was able to drill 22mm back and still have plenty of meat left. Mines a 90' WT Sierra, whats yours?

Mike

Mines a 82 1.0 NT chassis with 89 WT body and 89 WT driveline.

[zookernator]

Now.. i know that zook rears are 3" longer than the fronts.. i already have the rear hanger re-drilled 1" back.. so that means i should move the front hanger 2" forward.. Can anyone see any reason why this wouldnt work?? Tar

[Mike]

why don't you move the rear spring hangers back an inch instead of drilling them it would look more profesional

[zookernator]

Good plan!! i reckon i will do that.. but i'll get the front done first.. then do the rears later on down the track

[want33s]

Most of the advantage of a half RUF comes from the increase in shackle angle and length giving (lots) more droop.
Moving the rear mount back an inch is a good idea as far as an inspection goes but I don't think I'd move the front mount forward (but this doesn't really apply to you with your wacky shackles).
Jas.

[zookernator]

Well i started doing the RUF conversion tonight.. got one side tacked together!!
before:

Cut the old hanger off, put it on a section of flat bar, and moved it forward 2"

Made up some support gussets, which will brace the new mount, and also allow me access to the bolts etc


Will get the other one done tomorrow, then get it all fully welded, then hopefully go for a play on sunday and test it out!

[2stroker]

zookernator wrote:

Now.. i know that zook rears are 3" longer than the fronts.. i already have the rear hanger re-drilled 1" back.. so that means i should move the front hanger 2" forward.. Can anyone see any reason why this wouldnt work?? Tar

The perch locating pin on rear springs is not in the middle it is closer to the non shackle end of the spring, to keep the diff in it's original position the front mount needs to go forward further than the rear mount goes back.

[2stroker]

want33s wrote:

Most of the advantage of a half RUF comes from the increase in shackle angle and length giving (lots) more droop.
Moving the rear mount back an inch is a good idea as far as an inspection goes but I don't think I'd move the front mount forward (but this doesn't really apply to you with your wacky shackles).
Jas.

For the record this is mu opinion re RUF's

There that a lot of people who play around with RUF conversions and many of them create a host of problems and gain little benifit. These are some common things I see, people do not move the top shock mount forward the same distance as the bottom shock mount, the shock twists on its mounting point and experiences binding and side loads during the suspension cycle. When the diff is moved forward the steering arms move closer together, with poorly done RUF's binding of suspension arms is common and dangerous, steering geometry is also affected as the steering box does not move so the angles of the arms to the box become more acute. Extended shackles change castor angles and are detrimental to directional stability of the vehicle which is why they are illegal. I would not encourage anyone to redrill the rear mounts, if you look at the photo's the bushes in the springs hang outside the brackets it is not right and shouldn't be done. Sure you can get away with it but it is poor practice.

[zookernator]

2stroker wrote:

zookernator wrote:

Now.. i know that zook rears are 3" longer than the fronts.. i already have the rear hanger re-drilled 1" back.. so that means i should move the front hanger 2" forward.. Can anyone see any reason why this wouldnt work?? Tar

The perch locating pin on rear springs is not in the middle it is closer to the non shackle end of the spring, to keep the diff in it's original position the front mount needs to go forward further than the rear mount goes back.

I've got the 3 hole perchs from Low range.. so i will be able to get the same location by using the middle hole. I will be replacing there rear mount in the near future, which will eliminate the bush popping out