[bob9909]

Hey, this isn't written by me, but something I came across while trying to find info on how to adjust my tappets. It is written for the samurai but everything is the same for the sierra as far as I can tell.

This looks just like what I was looking for and it took quite a while to find

http://www.off-road.com/trucks-4x4/tech ... 20383.html

Hope it helps somebody

[ChrisRinai]

i need to do this! cheers!

[Scales]

thats one for the proposed wiki fer sure! nice find.

[bob9909]

I don't know what they mean by this

Quote:

"Remove the rubber plug from the ignition timing check window. This plug is located on the bell housing on the driver's side of the engine (left-hand drive vehicles)."

And the only way I can see to get the timing cover off to get at the crank is to remove the fan and everything else first. Is there an easier way?

[Jester]

bob9909 wrote:

I don't know what they mean by this

Quote:

"Remove the rubber plug from the ignition timing check window. This plug is located on the bell housing on the driver's side of the engine (left-hand drive vehicles)."

And the only way I can see to get the timing cover off to get at the crank is to remove the fan and everything else first. Is there an easier way?

back of motor on flywheel, is what they are meaning there, i dunno my 16a vit ive always timed on the crank pulley no worries without removing anything

[Shansh]

just to throw this in there, i just put my G13A back together after a rebuild, my mate who has been building engines for years showed me to do it this way;

make sure the car is in neutral, there is no way for anyone to turn the engine other than you, remove positive battery lead, or at least keep the keys in your pocket!!! hand brake is on and wheels chocked

step 1- remove valve cover

step 2- remove fan, pulleys & belts, etc & timing cover

step 3- remove spark plugs to ensure there is no compression and to make turning the engine by hand easier, use a long handled breaker bar or ratchet & socket on the crank bolt

step 4- turn the engine by hand until you can see both of the lobes on the cam at one set of valves are pointing equally downward, ie. at 4 & 8 on the clock, loosen off the capture nut on the valve stem & set the gaps between the rocker & valve on both the intake and exhaust valves as per the workshop manual ( cant remember them off the top if my head)

step 5- retighten capture nut on the valve stem, re check the gap to ensure the capture nut hasn't opened it up when you tightened it, if the gap has gotten bigger, re-adjust the gap as in above step, recheck after tightening & re-adjust until the gap is correct, repeat steps 4 & 5 for each cylinder until all valves are adjusted

step 6- turn engine by hand to ensure none of the valves come into contact with pistons, go through the whole sequence of firing from cylinders 1 through to 4

step 7- if all is ok at this point, put everything back together & take it for a burn!!!


I know this is a very long process for doing something as simple as adjusting the valves, but I dont mind it taking a bit longer and I feel like I get a better job this way as the valves are all adjusted when they are not under any load which makes for a more consistent adjustment across all of them.

That being said I am often guilty of doing things the long way, but I seem to learn more about how things work like that, hopefully this will be of help to someone.

Shan

[losfer]

easiest way is this ....

remove #1 spark plug and wind engine over with finger in hole to bring it up to compression on number 1 cylinder , once you feel compression , line up timing mark on harmonic balancer to "0" timing mark on cover.

in this position set number #1 and #2 intake valves , and #1 and #3 exhaust valves , then wind the crank one full revolution and then set #3 and #4 intake and #2 and #4 exhaust valves

[bob9909]

Thanks for the tips guys, I have just finished setting the tappets to specification. started it up and for a brief second it wasn't clicking.... but it seems it is just not clicking as much =P

Probably a piston I think, that would explain my excessive oil use as well.

Problem is, it is making a new noise now that makes me hope I didn't get anything wrong with the adjustment. It sounds more like a hissing sound, and only under revs. Took it for a short drive and didn't go very far as I was worried if I did something wrong all kinds of bad things would happen :S

[bob9909]

I realize what I did wrong, I'm embarrassed now :S

Instead of going down the table and reading the cold exhaust measurement I went across and used the warm intake measurement for the exhaust (was reading it on my phone at the time, is my excuse and I'm sticking with it)

Hope nothing is badly damaged as a result, will go fix it now.

EDIT: changed them while warm before, now it is a bit better, but I still think it is making a weird sound. I am going to readjust them tomorrow morning when it is cold. Will let you know how they go then