[Benchai]

Apologies if this has been covered before; I've done the search thing. If it has please post the link and feel free to spank me

Setting aside whether it's a warranted modification, is it possible to fit a booster to a 1.0L, and if so what are the parts I need and problems I will encounter?

I don't have a problem with the brakes as they are, it's the other cars I get into that I have to adjust to the more effective pedal. Also, with my children both on learners having a consistent pedal feel may be an advantage. If it's reasonable easy to do I'll consider it, otherwise it's a couple of cans of HTFU

[royce]

the hole in the firewall is different, but you can grind it out to match or weld a section in, then use the booster and mastercyl out of a 1.3 and its all apples I believe

[Fatzook]

I'm pretty sure that the bolt spacings are different at the base of the steering column and pedal box as well.

[MrRocky]

u will have to enlarge the hole to suit the booster and drill some new holes for the booster, also depending on what year 1ltr u have you may have to adjust the rod going into the master cyl, cant remember if i swaped pedal boxes either ?

[mnemonix]

My maruti had 1.0 brakes (unboosted).
I removed the master cylinder, ground out the firewall centre hole to about 60mm diameter, drill 4 new m8 holes and bolted on a sj70 brake booster. To this I fitted a subaru master cylinder to suit my rear disks.
Inside the cab, I fitted an sj70 pedal box as this bolts to the brake booster adding to the rigidity of the whole setup.

The heater tap needed to be relocated to clear the brake booster.

It makes the car so much more pleasant to drive now. Brakes are solid with good feel and pedal travel. My rear brake pads no longer wear excessively.

[Gwagensteve]

I'll take some photos today of the respective differences, but the spacing between the steering column and the master cylinder is different between early 1.0 litres and the later 1.0 (or Maruti's, I imagine)

On late 1.0's, it is 100% possible to enlarge the M/C hole, drill the booster pattern and drop a booster in, which is exactly what I am planning to do with Blingy.

On Piggles, there's no way there's enough clearance between the M/C and column to fit a booster.

I have seen a couple of early 1.0's adapted to take a booster and it has always involved welding in the reinforced firewall section form a 1.3.

Steve.

[mnemonix]

When I dodgied mine I was worried about firewall flex being an issue. But it seems that the firewall is double skinned. Combined with the sj70 pedal box this seems to have ample stiffness for long term safe braking.
It's not an area where you want mechanical fatigue to occur.

The cut/shunt idea with a piece from a 1.3 firewall is the most "proper" way to do the job and would be my preference on a ground up project.

[Fatzook]

mnemonix wrote:

The cut/shunt idea with a piece from a 1.3 firewall is the most "proper" way to do the job and would be my preference on a ground up project.

That is how I had to proceed when fitting the 2.0L booster and master to my 1.0L cab. I also added an extra skin ( total of 3) to the immediate area for the clutch master cylinder.

[Benchai]

Thanks guys, that's excellent. I was thinking clearance would be an issue, and it would if the centre of the existing and the centre of the booster were in the same place, but with the later pedal box centres in a different place. Sweet! I have the booster, pedal box, jig body for hole positioning. Should be cheap and easy mod, I hope.

[Gwagensteve]

Here's the photo's I promised:

Here is a Type 3 1.0 litre firewall. Note the distance between the column and the hole for the M/C.



and this is an early 1.0



There's 40mm more room in the late 1.0, which has the same spacing as a 1.3.


Steve.

[Rhinoman]

I once fitted an SJ413 booster into a 1984 SJ410 based buggy and I ended up changing the steering column too because the nuts and studs were the other way round. I could have modded one of them but the column came up cheap.

[2stroker]

Hi Benchai, if you have not started doing this I will go look in my shed today and get the "special adaptor" which was on an LJ that I wrecked which was fitted with disc brakes and a 1300 booster and sierra steering. As the LJ and 1litre master cyls are interchangeable it may be just the ticket, I dont want to sell it but you are welcome to borrow and copy.

[Benchai]

Thanks Kas. Just looking at both the jig body and mine in the context of the posts above, there appears to only be a difference in where the holes are placed. An offset pedal allows the centre line of the booster to be up and to the right allowing for the battery and steering column. The hole for the column is exactly the same for KT and the WT. I'd love to see this adaptor though. Is it possible that the LJ firewall is entirely different to the SJ? Need to call you about the jig too - have a long list of people who haven't paid me since before Chrissy so the bikky tin is a bit empty
Hey, if you find a lonely 1.3 MC in your vast array of bits and pieces can you save it for me please?

[Benchai]

Gwagensteve wrote:

Here's the photo's I promised:


and this is an early 1.0



There's 40mm more room in the late 1.0, which has the same spacing as a 1.3.


Steve.

Thanks Steve
That MC looks nothing like mine, which is cylindrical and has a pipe to input to the rears. Aslo the pipes exit on the engine side. Steering column hole is in the same spot mine vs the WT body I have. It appears that it will be no more than a case of making the appropriate holes and using the WT parts unless I'm missing something

[Gwagensteve]

That's a forester 1-1/16" m/c redrilled and running unboosted, which is why it looks different. The photos were for reference for the spacing only . You will either have the spacing of the white car I posted (easy to fit a booster) or the green car which will require firewall and potentially pedal mods.

Steve