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Post Posted: Tue Jan 10, 2012 12:44 pm 
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Hi Ya'll

Im looking at making up a half box so a battery can sit in it under the passenger side seat.

No room in engine bay at all.
Drycell.
1battery only.
Must be ok for winch if needed.(rarely)
Coon 100amp alt.
Stockish wiring/lights bulbs etc. Might get some hid'spots or ledbar later. Led rocklights.
Would one of Danks cheaper options be ok?

Whats everyone doing with the wiring? Holes in the floor? Plug connectors?

I need it weather proof underneath, but i also dont want it filling with water.

Should i just make a semi-tray under the floor, With a full high top sealed lid? That might be nicer.

Just thinking in my head. Any ideas would be great. :)

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Post Posted: Tue Jan 10, 2012 1:14 pm 
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Will ya have ya rear seats in still?

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Post Posted: Tue Jan 10, 2012 3:35 pm 
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. Pretty sure Gwagon done it on michaels trolly tug.

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Post Posted: Tue Jan 10, 2012 7:32 pm 
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drivers side will be less cable to the starter and not as hot, use the fattest cable you can find at work and it might work well to run the cable inside the tunnel and round to the starter.

Put an isolator switch on the negative cable as close to the battery as possible and think about having an anderson plug somewhere with a set of jumper leads made up to connect to it

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Post Posted: Tue Jan 10, 2012 8:35 pm 
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After i turned the pc off i was thinking drivers side will be nicer under the seat, No exhaust there. I have some thick cabling here that was chucked out from an old machine install ready to go in, Copper core is at least 10mm and flexy.

Otherwise there is room above the extractors, at least 200mm away from them, Still not the best position though because of heat.

I want the tub to have usable room for things. Its already cut and raised for a 2L v6 tank and still 4 seater. Lwb.

The plug is a good idea for jumpers, as it will kind of be tricky to get to once installed. I saw the plug idea you said earlier on here. Can always put the isolator in the floor also. Are these fairly weatherproof?

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Post Posted: Tue Jan 10, 2012 9:15 pm 
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Just get an industrial one, we use them on the outside of all the earth moving equipment at work..... Rain hail or shine they work great :D

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Post Posted: Tue Jan 10, 2012 9:47 pm 
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Just done this, haven't got time to post picture at the moment, but will post some up after work.

I ran the fat wire through the right hand guard for the shortest and coolest path.

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Post Posted: Tue Jan 10, 2012 9:54 pm 
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Oh yeah! Just earth it at the Body and chassis! Der! My mind is in Fabrication mode. More fab than wiring atm.

A small insulated teminal/fuse block in the engine bay would also work.

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Post Posted: Tue Jan 10, 2012 10:17 pm 
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Teaser...

Image

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Post Posted: Tue Jan 10, 2012 10:19 pm 
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Moag wrote:
Teaser...

Image


I am sure all will be revlealed later on but if that is the only fuse in the system you have a fire hazard there should you get hit in that guard, be better to have them on the battery terminals at either end if its a dual system

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Post Posted: Wed Jan 11, 2012 12:23 am 
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I have a blue top mounted under the passenger seat in my sierra with battery (winch power) cables running under the dash back to the original location of the battery.

We used one of these to go through the firewall for the positive:
http://www.vpw.com.au/productgroup.asp?CatID=8&SubCatID=922&priorCatID=922&PrdGrpID=4218

We just used a bolt for the negative.

The underside of the box was coated in heat proofing material.

One problem with the installation in my car was that the battery sits upright (per standard) and this caused a bit of pain with the passenger seat sliders - we ended up pillaging a second seat to run a slider mechanism on both sides of the seat.

A better solution would have been to mount the battery on its side.

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Post Posted: Wed Jan 11, 2012 12:54 am 
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So i have to run it under the passenger side. The driver side seat just doesnt allow it to fit nice, Not enough clearance.

The battery/box will be semi under the floor, So i will make a chassis mount for the battery, Then run a box only around the top for a floor with a lid to remove if needed.

I wish i could mount it lower but i have fully custom raised transfer mounts under there, both sides of the chassis, And im not moving those. :lol:

I will have to run a small heat guard doova to keep abit of heat away from the zorst.

Should be ok. :D

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Post Posted: Wed Jan 11, 2012 1:10 am 
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why not go behind the drivers seat?

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Post Posted: Wed Jan 11, 2012 1:16 am 
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Footwell for rear passenger. The back seat will be as close as a swb one because of the rear coilover towers.

Everything on this is a compromise. :lol:


edit*

Going to make body hold battery, not chassis. Will Look neater.

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Post Posted: Wed Jan 11, 2012 2:04 am 
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if you can you really want it on the lhs, to get rid of a bit of the weight on the right.

mine is on the floor directly behind the passenger seat, only because I couldn't be f'd cutting another hole in the floor

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Post Posted: Wed Jan 11, 2012 2:08 am 
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I'm doing this at the moment with a Blue top. Sounds pretty similar to GregCs. I'm running it on its side though with the terminals facing backwards. should be able to jump it by reaching into the back from behind the hoop. I'm putting it in a battery tray that drops down through the floor by around 70mm I think. I don't see the heat being a huge issue as the floors cool enough to touch normally. Can't be warmer than in the engine bay. I wondered if it was worthwhile putting a positive post in the engine bay like what BMW's run also.

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Post Posted: Wed Jan 11, 2012 2:31 am 
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Not sure how hard it is to get to with guards on but as I am guardless I simply jump off the starter or connect the air compressor to the starter, whatever the case may be.

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Post Posted: Wed Jan 11, 2012 7:53 am 
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royce wrote:
Moag wrote:
Teaser...

Image


I am sure all will be revlealed later on but if that is the only fuse in the system you have a fire hazard there should you get hit in that guard, be better to have them on the battery terminals at either end if its a dual system


You're so right royce and it was one of my main concerns as to how fuse them welding cables.

Wiring diagram..

Image

The most dangerous part is the 25mm2 red cable from the starter battery and the first fuse. So were it goes through the inner guard it gets two layers of conduct and heat shrink....

Image

This picture shows were i drilled a hole back into the cab. I made sure i knew were that drill bit was going to break through.
There's a shit load of wires and plugs in this location.

Image

This is on the other side..

Image

Then down next to the door to the front of the seat..

Image

Then across to the dual charging relay then big on off switch and back under
seat next to the seat rail..

Image

To another fuse and then the second battery..

Image

You can get an idea of how l mounted the battery and where I earthed it on the seat rail bolt in the above.

Oh and something to keep the co-pilot happy and see what's going on..

Image

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Post Posted: Wed Jan 11, 2012 8:54 am 
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zooky08 wrote:
. Pretty sure Gwagon done it on michaels trolly tug.


x2 :)

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Post Posted: Wed Jan 11, 2012 9:11 am 
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Moag, would one of the projecta battery terminals with the fusible links built in suit your start battery?

What you have certainly has all bases covered (though I prefer negative terminal battery isolation) but I have a thing about fusing as close to teh battery as possible

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Post Posted: Wed Jan 11, 2012 9:13 am 
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zooky08 wrote:
. Pretty sure Gwagen done it on a whole bunch of cars.


and I think Piggles will be getting the battery under the passenger seat too.

Steve.

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Post Posted: Wed Jan 11, 2012 9:29 am 
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royce wrote:
Moag, would one of the projecta battery terminals with the fusible links built in suit your start battery?

What you have certainly has all bases covered (though I prefer negative terminal battery isolation) but I have a thing about fusing as close to teh battery as possible


The project battery terminals would of been great if the batteries had terminal posts.

The batteries I'm using have M8 bolts and those cool marine terminal fuses for lugs were a bit pricey.

:wink: no lead in these batteries and both combined are less weight then the 27kg yellow top that i just gave to a good mate.

I ended up tabbing some brass terminal busses.

I was contemplating fusing of the earths and i might still do it, as it kind of made sense to do it this way.

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Post Posted: Wed Jan 11, 2012 9:57 am 
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What my terminal look like.

Image

Home grown terminal buss.

Image

Light weight batteries I'm giving a go.....40AH and second 60AH

Crazy hey :crazy:

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Post Posted: Wed Jan 11, 2012 10:00 am 
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on mine I used a gold maxi blade fuse and a really short piece of cable to a ring terminal, cheap easy to replace fuse and its right at the terminal

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Post Posted: Wed Jan 11, 2012 10:22 am 
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These were what i was going to get fuse and what they fit on

I think the 60AH battery might fit under the seat on its side or this 90AH one on its side (155mm) and 13kg

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Post Posted: Wed Jan 11, 2012 10:53 am 
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You certainly have some wiring in that jimny!! :lol:

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Post Posted: Wed Jan 11, 2012 12:06 pm 
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Has anyone used these types of fuses/circuit breakers? Avaliable in different amperages also. Acts as a fuse and cutoff switch in one.
http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/12V-DC-CAR-A ... 3a637f8ee3

Also looking at that sellers other parts, The generic relays+holders look ok also. Going to need some for Starter, Airhorns, Airlocker solinoids, headlights,fuel pump etcetcetc

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Post Posted: Wed Jan 11, 2012 7:43 pm 
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BlueSuzy wrote:
Has anyone used these types of fuses/circuit breakers? Avaliable in different amperages also. Acts as a fuse and cutoff switch in one.
http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/12V-DC-CAR-A ... 3a637f8ee3

Also looking at that sellers other parts, The generic relays+holders look ok also. Going to need some for Starter, Airhorns, Airlocker solinoids, headlights,fuel pump etcetcetc


these guys have great stuff
http://www.vehicle-wiring-products.eu/V ... mepage.php

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