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Post Posted: Wed Jan 11, 2012 1:17 pm 
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hey all,

not sure if this is allowed to be in here or if its ment to be in the "i made it" section but feel free to move.

as some of you may know i have a way of letting nature take its course in increasing my sill clearance....rocks have mashed my sills. so its time for them to go. i have seen a few people do it, eg "swifty_ano" using some 70x50 RHS ( http://www.auszookers.com/index.php?nam ... 9&start=30 ) and RIKSTR and his C section ( http://www.auszookers.com/index.php?nam ... sc&start=0 )

but my question is, is it possible to use 4-5mm flat bar once it has been chopped off? will i have any issues in welding in the inner side (something to weld to)? and will i have any issues legally with cutting it off?

this is where i plan on cutting it.
Image
Image

this was taken from rikstr's thread: this is what i want to do but cut the back off as well, then put the flat bar in. understanding??
Image

this is what i want to achieve, but without the slider and the inner wall of the C section.
Image

hope this makes sense, any help would be great. im doing this to increase clearance and to make it looks a little better.
thanks
Mitch

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Post Posted: Wed Jan 11, 2012 4:59 pm 
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Hope ur a great welder because suzuki panels are like tin cans
I would cut the bottom off and neatly fold the back up into the sill then the front over that then weld it up
Then u can make what ever slider u want to sit below it and fix it to the chassis

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Post Posted: Wed Jan 11, 2012 5:51 pm 
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Can I ask why you want to do that? Benefits?
When mine was done, he cut just on the top line where it starts to curve down and then tapped the flap down onto the rhs. I bogged up then welds and you can't tell.

+1 for being a good welder. Chester(who did mine) struggled with the upside down weldind due to the thiness of the panels and lack of room.

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Post Posted: Wed Jan 11, 2012 6:18 pm 
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if you take it all out and just put 4-5mm flat bar in there with no sliders i think your doors will start to look pretty average.

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Post Posted: Wed Jan 11, 2012 8:24 pm 
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if you dont put a slider in the gap you will just bend the door

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Post Posted: Wed Jan 11, 2012 8:37 pm 
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Flat bar has no strength in it
It will just bend
U need some thing with some profile to it
Try 25x 50 or 25x75 box

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Post Posted: Thu Jan 12, 2012 10:06 am 
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Just found this on Zuki world, which may help:
http://www.zukiworld.com/forum/build-di ... a-tracker/

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Post Posted: Thu Jan 12, 2012 11:49 am 
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You can use flat bar just make it 12mm or thicker and brace the fuck out of it

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Post Posted: Thu Jan 12, 2012 12:42 pm 
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boatside it 8)

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Post Posted: Thu Jan 12, 2012 12:56 pm 
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+1 for boatsides =)

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Post Posted: Thu Jan 12, 2012 1:06 pm 
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swifty_ano wrote:
Can I ask why you want to do that? Benefits?
When mine was done, he cut just on the top line where it starts to curve down and then tapped the flap down onto the rhs. I bogged up then welds and you can't tell.

+1 for being a good welder. Chester(who did mine) struggled with the upside down weldind due to the thiness of the panels and lack of room.


i wanted something different, i dont mind urs but it looks factory. im trying to gain clearance and strength, but it seems that i wont be getting much from flat bar :(

well im getting monkey off here to do it for me, he is a boily so i can only assume that he is good. he told me to try get 4mm as anything bigger would be to hard.

got_bar_work wrote:
....I would cut the bottom off and neatly fold the back up into the sill then the front over that then weld it up
Then u can make what ever slider u want to sit below it and fix it to the chassis

i doubt i could do this with the state of my current sills, they are almost flat as it is so trying to straighten them out to over lap would be a mission.

how would using 25x 50 or 25x75 box work?

shorty- thanks for the link mate, looks really good. might have a good think about that and talk to my miniun lol.

boatside???

any body know about the legalities? if i ever have to go over the pits, will i have any issues.

cheers

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Post Posted: Thu Jan 12, 2012 1:36 pm 
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shandy92 wrote:
swifty_ano wrote:
Can I ask why you want to do that? Benefits?
When mine was done, he cut just on the top line where it starts to curve down and then tapped the flap down onto the rhs. I bogged up then welds and you can't tell.

+1 for being a good welder. Chester(who did mine) struggled with the upside down weldind due to the thiness of the panels and lack of room.


i wanted something different, i dont mind urs but it looks factory. im trying to gain clearance and strength, but it seems that i wont be getting much from flat bar :(

well im getting monkey off here to do it for me, he is a boily so i can only assume that he is good. he told me to try get 4mm as anything bigger would be to hard.

got_bar_work wrote:
....I would cut the bottom off and neatly fold the back up into the sill then the front over that then weld it up
Then u can make what ever slider u want to sit below it and fix it to the chassis

i doubt i could do this with the state of my current sills, they are almost flat as it is so trying to straighten them out to over lap would be a mission.

how would using 25x 50 or 25x75 box work?

shorty- thanks for the link mate, looks really good. might have a good think about that and talk to my miniun lol.

boatside???

any body know about the legalities? if i ever have to go over the pits, will i have any issues.

cheers
IMO I wouldn't imagine it'd be legal to modify the body outside of stock specification. Not sure though Mitch although with the look of your sills now might be a good thing to chop em anyway beacuse don't think they'd let that pass

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Post Posted: Thu Jan 12, 2012 6:01 pm 
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With mine you can't tell and if they ever ask ill just say it was a sill/rust repair (even though there is not a spot of rust in my car ;)

With mine, the top of my sill was dinted aswell. You can see pics in my thread about "sill repairs). It was bumpy as all hell as I had to bend the fold down so it wouldn't stop my door from opening lol

Nothing a hammer and bog couldnt fix.

Imo sill clearence is a bit pointless as chassis rails are the lowest point anyway.

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Post Posted: Thu Jan 12, 2012 6:55 pm 
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Shorty_34 wrote:
Just found this on Zuki world, which may help:
http://www.zukiworld.com/forum/build-di ... a-tracker/


Just supply the RHS and we can do any of this ;)

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Post Posted: Thu Jan 12, 2012 7:05 pm 
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I ment just weld the sill up level with the door like u want then make some sliders off the chassis in 25x75 rhs so they don't hang down so far

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Post Posted: Thu Jan 12, 2012 8:11 pm 
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31zook wrote:
Shorty_34 wrote:
Just found this on Zuki world, which may help:
http://www.zukiworld.com/forum/build-di ... a-tracker/


Just supply the RHS and we can do any of this ;)


I'll bring the beers :lol:

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Post Posted: Thu Jan 12, 2012 8:19 pm 
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turbo_deo wrote:
31zook wrote:
Shorty_34 wrote:
Just found this on Zuki world, which may help:
http://www.zukiworld.com/forum/build-di ... a-tracker/


Just supply the RHS and we can do any of this ;)


I'll bring the beers :lol:


:lol: sorted then!

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Post Posted: Thu Jan 12, 2012 8:46 pm 
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swifty_ano wrote:
Imo sill clearence is a bit pointless as chassis rails are the lowest point anyway.

I disagree. Off road I tend to put my wheels over the humps/obstacles,
which are right in line with the sills.
And sills catch edges of ruts easily.
Thus sill clearance is very important to me.

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Post Posted: Thu Jan 12, 2012 10:15 pm 
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christover1 wrote:
swifty_ano wrote:
Imo sill clearence is a bit pointless as chassis rails are the lowest point anyway.

I disagree. Off road I tend to put my wheels over the humps/obstacles,
which are right in line with the sills.
And sills catch edges of ruts easily.
Thus sill clearance is very important to me.


X2

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Post Posted: Fri Jan 13, 2012 2:51 am 
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31zook wrote:
turbo_deo wrote:
31zook wrote:
Shorty_34 wrote:
Just found this on Zuki world, which may help:
http://www.zukiworld.com/forum/build-di ... a-tracker/


Just supply the RHS and we can do any of this ;)


I'll bring the beers :lol:


:lol: sorted then!


hmm righto sounds like a good plan :)

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Post Posted: Fri Jan 13, 2012 6:12 am 
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What's boatside mean? :oops:

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Post Posted: Fri Jan 13, 2012 6:17 am 
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Joe wrote:
What's boatside mean? :oops:


Curving inwards like a side of a boat.
Good for slipping over things, rather thasn getting hung up

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Post Posted: Fri Jan 13, 2012 6:18 am 
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Joe wrote:
What's boatside mean? :oops:


to taper/angle the sides like a boat.... :wink:

like this:

\___________/

instead of like this:

|___________|

usually it's a bit more drastic than just cutting the sills, some even chop the lower section out of the doors to boatside it even more.

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Post Posted: Fri Jan 13, 2012 6:21 am 
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Image

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Post Posted: Fri Jan 13, 2012 6:21 am 
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Cutting the sills up at an angle.

These are radical examples, but it shows the effect.

Image

Image

Image

In some cases, the bottom of the door is cut, in others, it's all under the door.

The idea is to provide a smooth, angled face rather than a square slider that gets hung up.

Steve.

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Post Posted: Fri Jan 13, 2012 6:25 am 
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Cool i learned something today :D thanks guys :helloo:

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Post Posted: Sun Jan 15, 2012 1:55 am 
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how structural is the sill? i realize that theres a full chassis under the body but is the sill part of the cars structure?

basically i've cut mine the same as this to fit chassis mounted sliders, do i need to reinforce whats left with some 3mm or something or can i just seal it off with some sheet metal?

Image

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Post Posted: Sun Jan 15, 2012 2:13 am 
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theyre only structural if you dont have a slider there to take the beating =)

fancy control arms too!

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Post Posted: Sun Jan 15, 2012 3:51 am 
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the pics from rikstr's build.

next question, how much gap should i leave between body and slider to allow the body to flex on the chassis? 2-3mm?

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Post Posted: Sun Jan 15, 2012 3:56 am 
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i'd say it's structural & you need something like a large piece of angle or a piece of box section as the A & B pillars have now lost the little bit of box section rigidity that they had with the fromed sill panel section.

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