[want33s]

2stroker wrote:

want33s wrote:

Most of the advantage of a half RUF comes from the increase in shackle angle and length giving (lots) more droop.
Moving the rear mount back an inch is a good idea as far as an inspection goes but I don't think I'd move the front mount forward (but this doesn't really apply to you with your wacky shackles).
Jas.

For the record this is mu opinion re RUF's

There that a lot of people who play around with RUF conversions and many of them create a host of problems and gain little benifit. These are some common things I see, people do not move the top shock mount forward the same distance as the bottom shock mount, the shock twists on its mounting point and experiences binding and side loads during the suspension cycle. When the diff is moved forward the steering arms move closer together, with poorly done RUF's binding of suspension arms is common and dangerous, steering geometry is also affected as the steering box does not move so the angles of the arms to the box become more acute. Extended shackles change castor angles and are detrimental to directional stability of the vehicle which is why they are illegal. I would not encourage anyone to redrill the rear mounts, if you look at the photo's the bushes in the springs hang outside the brackets it is not right and shouldn't be done. Sure you can get away with it but it is poor practice.

My top shock mount is standard and creates no problems. Shocks dont rub or bind at all.
My diff is 22-25mm forward of standard. The drag link has been reinforced with a piece of 4mm wall tube over it and there is still 3-4mm of clearance at its tightest position. NO dramas there.
If the diff is moved any further than 25mm you will have more problems with the pitman arm hitting the drag link (at full compression) than the tie rod/drag link binding up.
Steering geometry is affected but the effect is negligible. Moving the diff 25mm forward reduces the angle from the box by about half a degree. Way less than the angle changes cycling from lock to lock.
Extended shackles do change caster angles but caster wedges are available (and legal) to fix any changes.
I will be moving my rear mounts soon to correct the tiny bit of spring/bush that is visible but I don't see how having 1/10th of the bush visible is a safety concern, it's not like it can escape.

Jas.

[shep]

2stroker wrote:

want33s wrote:

Most of the advantage of a half RUF comes from the increase in shackle angle and length giving (lots) more droop.
Moving the rear mount back an inch is a good idea as far as an inspection goes but I don't think I'd move the front mount forward (but this doesn't really apply to you with your wacky shackles).
Jas.

For the record this is mu opinion re RUF's

There that a lot of people who play around with RUF conversions and many of them create a host of problems and gain little benifit. These are some common things I see, people do not move the top shock mount forward the same distance as the bottom shock mount, the shock twists on its mounting point and experiences binding and side loads during the suspension cycle.

i moved the bottom shock mount back and have not had any problems with any thing after moving my diff enough that i had to offset my bumpstops so they didn't miss the diff.

[2stroker]

Zookanator, mate I am not too sure about using the 3 hole perches from Low Range. The way I see it is that if you leave the rear mount where it is and move the diff backward so it is in the original position by using those 3 hole perches you then have a spring length behind the diff that is exactly the same as you had before with standard front springs. Sure the spring length in front of the diff housing is longer but you have effectivley halved the advantage of the longer spring.

Shep, you're right, that is the other way to correct the shockie problem, move the bottom shockie mount back so that the shock is vertical again.

Jas, mate as I said you can get away with it but it is poor practice, I don't think you understand what I am getting at with the shockies, I don't mean the shockie rubbing or binding against anything around it what I mean is that the shockie needs to move in a direct plane, the top mount has to move directly toward the bottom mount, if the shockie lays backward by 25mm when you compress it it is fighting against the rubber mounting points trying to come back into the same plane. The bottom shockie mount faces backward i.e. the shockie slides on from the back towards the front of the car, this allows the shockie to be laid in or out at the top but not backward or forward. When the spring is in the middle position of its range of flex the top and bottom mount should be directly in line to eliminate this side loading of the shockie.

[zookernator]

Well got the RUF all done!! Went out for a play to test it out, and to try out the RTC damper. Its heaps softer in the front now.. and got HEAPS more flex! The shocky is out of travel now, and the drop shackle and the spring, both havent fully opened up!! So gotta look into different ways to fit longer shockys next! These pics are with my own rear springs.. which i thought was going to be to high (lifted). They have settled down nicely, and the ride height is pretty much spot on!! So at this stage, i didnt need to buy the springs off zook Fan!!

[shep]

hay zookernator do you embarrass that fella in the shitbox toyota
when ya out playing.

[zookernator]

haha, i do try mate!!!