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Post Posted: Sat Jan 28, 2012 7:16 pm 
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i have found a set of manual hubs in the shed.. though i had given them away, turns out not..
i was under the impression i needed to use a adapter to run them on my jimny but i have been told otherwise today...

can people confirm this?? and what needs to be done?

they are off a Wt leafy (sj70)

Phil

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Post Posted: Sat Jan 28, 2012 7:22 pm 
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From what I understand if you don't ever plan to switch back to the autos you can grind down the vacuum ring. Then you can just bolt them straight on. Don't know if it's 100% fact but sounds fair, I read it somewhere.

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Post Posted: Sat Jan 28, 2012 7:25 pm 
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viewtopic.php?f=15&t=15009

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Post Posted: Sat Jan 28, 2012 7:38 pm 
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Bruce wrote:
http://auszookers.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=15&t=15009


i know this...

however wondering if i actualy need it!

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Post Posted: Sat Jan 28, 2012 7:55 pm 
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For you to fit Sierra hubs without spacer rings you'll need to grind or cut the bearing nut down.
With out doing that benT sells the rings nd bolts for $60 posted

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Post Posted: Sat Jan 28, 2012 8:09 pm 
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zooky08 wrote:
For you to fit Sierra hubs without spacer rings you'll need to grind or cut the bearing nut down.
With out doing that benT sells the rings nd bolts for $60 posted


thats what i thought, however some one did mention something about vit hub nuts?

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Post Posted: Sun Jan 29, 2012 6:59 am 
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jonno_racing wrote:
zooky08 wrote:
For you to fit Sierra hubs without spacer rings you'll need to grind or cut the bearing nut down.
With out doing that benT sells the rings nd bolts for $60 posted


thats what i thought, however some one did mention something about vit hub nuts?



I'm pretty sure it's just the vacuum ring that gets in the way and why you need a spacer.

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Post Posted: Sun Jan 29, 2012 7:32 am 
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That ring that sticks out is part if the nut, the nut is a funny design, bit people might call it the vacuum ring as that's what it is
I had my Jimny diffs apart yesterday. So it's the nut you have to grind down.
But doing this you won't be able to go back to Jimny hubs as that ring on the nut must seals when it goes into the auto hub
To buy the nut it's $72 btw, I found this out the other day :(
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Post Posted: Sun Jan 29, 2012 7:39 am 
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ya dont need to buy a bodylift kit either but sometimes doing things properly is worth it.

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Post Posted: Sun Jan 29, 2012 8:25 am 
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Cool info zooky08, I haven't had to pull the spindle hub apart yet on either of my Jimnys so it's good to see what's behind it. Using the spacer is definitely the simplest way to fit the manual hubs.

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Post Posted: Sun Jan 29, 2012 8:35 am 
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Ok got this info from a guy oversees.. you dont need to cut anything if u have the right parts... i think i do...
Quote:
you need a set of fwh's, and the axle nuts off a vitara. you need both nuts off each side and the little screws that screw the nuts together. You will also need the tapered washers and botls for the hubs. Take the vacuum hub off then unscrew the big jimny nut then replace with the vit ones.

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Post Posted: Sun Jan 29, 2012 8:38 am 
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jonno_racing wrote:
Ok got this info from a guy oversees.. you dont need to cut anything if u have the right parts... i think i do...
Quote:
you need a set of fwh's, and the axle nuts off a vitara. you need both nuts off each side and the little screws that screw the nuts together. You will also need the tapered washers and botls for the hubs. Take the vacuum hub off then unscrew the big jimny nut then replace with the vit ones.



Try it and take pics

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Post Posted: Sun Jan 29, 2012 8:44 am 
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yeah i will.. i am wondering atm if i can use leafy wheel bearing nuts, as they are the 52mm nuts with better locking tabs... not sure if i can or not tho atm.

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Post Posted: Sun Jan 29, 2012 10:13 am 
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You can use Sierra nuts. Tried it yesterday they screw on.
But can't use the locking tab ring as the little tab inside of the ring that goes in the key slot only goes half way on a Jimny were on a Sierra the key slot goes all the way.
You could cut the tab out but what stops the ring from rotating then

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Post Posted: Sun Jan 29, 2012 10:21 am 
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well u just saved me from pulling my front end appart!!
well i might go on the hunt for some vit wheel bearing nuts.

i dont want to use the spacers as its just one more surface to fail and let crap in

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Post Posted: Sun Jan 29, 2012 10:26 am 
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jonno_racing wrote:
i dont want to use the spacers as its just one more surface to fail and let crap in
that's why mine are packed with gasket silicone :wink:
No shit is going to get in

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Post Posted: Sun Jan 29, 2012 10:29 am 
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yeah thats true! i am trying to avoid using anything that could cause a fail in my jimny..

did u block off the vac hose for hub engagement?

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Post Posted: Sun Jan 29, 2012 11:23 am 
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i did the conversion on mine, all u need are the 2 spacer rings and some new bolts. takes 5mins to fit and your done. i never did anything with the vac lines and i havent had any problems.

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Post Posted: Sun Jan 29, 2012 2:03 pm 
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I blocked the hoses of so I don't have a flashing light.
I also blocked the fittings that are on the spindle and took all the hardlines of the front diff housing

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Post Posted: Sun Jan 29, 2012 4:17 pm 
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Phill by the time you have found somewhere to buy the nuts from, driven there got em driven home frigged around with it all, you will have cost yourself more then the $60 it costs to get BenT to post it to you.

Just count the time it would cost you to do all this then work out your going rate, and see if it's really worth it.

+1 with shep.

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Post Posted: Sun Jan 29, 2012 4:22 pm 
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31zook wrote:
Phill by the time you have found somewhere to buy the nuts from, driven there got em driven home frigged around with it all, you will have cost yourself more then the $60 it costs to get BenT to post it to you.

Just count the time it would cost you to do all this then work out your going rate, and see if it's really worth it.

+1 with shep.


i am avoiding having another seal serface to fail.

+ i am driving home to tassie in a week and a bit!

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Post Posted: Sun Jan 29, 2012 4:29 pm 
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just put some gasket goo on both sides before you put it together, thats what i have done and its never gotten any shit inside, been running it for about 18months now.

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Post Posted: Sun Jan 29, 2012 5:57 pm 
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jonno_racing wrote:
31zook wrote:
Phill by the time you have found somewhere to buy the nuts from, driven there got em driven home frigged around with it all, you will have cost yourself more then the $60 it costs to get BenT to post it to you.

Just count the time it would cost you to do all this then work out your going rate, and see if it's really worth it.

+1 with shep.


i am avoiding having another seal serface to fail.

+ i am driving home to tassie in a week and a bit!



Leave the standard hubs on it then!

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Post Posted: Sun Jan 29, 2012 6:08 pm 
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superduki wrote:
jonno_racing wrote:
31zook wrote:
Phill by the time you have found somewhere to buy the nuts from, driven there got em driven home frigged around with it all, you will have cost yourself more then the $60 it costs to get BenT to post it to you.

Just count the time it would cost you to do all this then work out your going rate, and see if it's really worth it.

+1 with shep.


i am avoiding having another seal serface to fail.

+ i am driving home to tassie in a week and a bit!



Leave the standard hubs on it then!

vacum hubs suck!
i think i will just go buy some new vit nuts from suzuki

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Post Posted: Sun Jan 29, 2012 6:10 pm 
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That will most likely cost more then the rings.

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Post Posted: Sun Jan 29, 2012 6:24 pm 
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zooky08 wrote:
That will most likely cost more then the rings.

possibly... i am trying to avoid the rings.. the cost isnt the factor in this...
anyways there is 100's of vits in wreckers aus wide some one WILL have these nuts!

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Post Posted: Sun Jan 29, 2012 6:28 pm 
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Honestly, you are just wasting your time ( yours to waste though)

One more sealing surface, sealed with gasket goo will make no difference to the water resistance of the hub assembly.

$60 well spent IMO..... And much better than getting some; all too often; munted nuts from a wrecker.

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Post Posted: Sun Jan 29, 2012 6:31 pm 
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your probably right... and i will probably end up cracking the shits and getting spacers anyways..

i have read a few people have taken to there jimny nuts with a grinder.. thats a bit ruff imo..

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Post Posted: Sun Jan 29, 2012 7:03 pm 
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There would be one advantage to avoiding using spacers is that the outer profile of the hub would be inboard by 8mm.

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Post Posted: Sun Jan 29, 2012 7:05 pm 
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and also the hub bolts would be MUCH stronger.

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