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az supporter
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Location: Toowoomba, QLD

Post Posted: Sat Feb 04, 2012 11:42 pm 
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Here is a chart i made to confuse myself more....

Image


This chart makes the 5.14's look far more appealing...

I think i'll go ahead and call that a decision...bloody 130 bucks.....

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Joined: Tue Jan 12, 2010 10:30 pm
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Location: Perth

Post Posted: Sun Feb 05, 2012 12:17 am 
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ajsr wrote:
yeah and I bet red is really mechanicly sympathic bloke when it come to his car, his driving style and technique.
also he is locked which makes a massive difference to the life of your components if your carefull how you put the power down.

wheelspin and bounce under power is the enemy to all things drivetrain not the gear ratio in the transfer and gearbox gear selection

Depends on who you ask, all the Toyota drivers I wheel with reckon I drive like a 'typical suzuki driver' but yes in general I dont let it bounce and clutch dumping launches are only ever a last resort.

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az supporter
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Post Posted: Sun Feb 05, 2012 1:38 am 
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Yeah i'm not a complete neanderthal when it comes to mechanical sympothy...lol

May have bitten off a bit more than I could chew going in that comp in the GQ against tuff truck competitors though..

But hey, there was free camping, and it only cost $800 to fix the truck afterward...rofl

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Location: Newcastle
Vehicle: G13BB Jimny

Post Posted: Sun Feb 05, 2012 5:42 am 
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wolf_rt wrote:
not really much fun always swapping from low 4th to high 1st all the time though...

is it reasonable to use low 5th and get stuck in???

Quote:
No, only low for off road.

i meant are you swapping to high range all the time when you get to easy trails...


I could do 110-120 at about 3500rpm. 4.16 will allow higher speeds in most situations on road.


And no I think occasionally I hit 5th when there is a fast flat section of track but I'm usually in 1st-3rd.

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Joined: Thu Apr 30, 2009 11:30 pm
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Location: Ipswich
Vehicle: LJ80V-II (a proper Stockman)

Post Posted: Sun Feb 05, 2012 8:12 am 
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wolf_rt wrote:
Here is a chart i made to confuse myself more....

Image


This chart makes the 5.14's look far more appealing...

I think i'll go ahead and call that a decision...bloody 130 bucks.....





I do my gearing charts a slightly different way, not saying what you did up there is bad, just thought I'd throw this up for another way to look at it (these plots are old and I am recycling them so they are not exactly what you are after). I chose the RPM band I like to keep my engine at, and plot the speeds that particular gearing will give me at that rpm range.

So here is some stock gearing and 31's:
Image


I like how it shows overlap. I also find once I get 1 gear in a car right, I know all future gearing for the same engined car should have one of that gear (I count tyre as gearing).

4.9 transfer is close to 5.14, so here is a plot for that (This is what my Sierra is):
Image

and some 6.5's:
Image


These plots don't tell you much more than allowable speeds until you have some seat time (or even spectator time) in a car with one of the combos to compare to. One day when I am crazy bored and motivated (somewhat of a rarity) I'll try and find a more meaningful way to show that gearing can be too high and too low, and you need to have some gears within a certain range to be useful.

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az supporter
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Post Posted: Sun Feb 05, 2012 11:23 am 
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Thanks for all the responses guys, since I'm running 30's and unlocked for now, I'm going to go with the 5.14's.

Once the car is dual locked with ~31's I'll see how it feels and go from there.

(I tried to do charts like yours HIghway-Star... but it was beyond me at the time...)

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Post Posted: Sun Feb 05, 2012 2:27 pm 
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I found the 5.14's to be pretty good when I had 31's and stock diff gears, it was only when I went up to 33's that I needed to change the diffs to 5.12's, to slow me down a bit when crawling.

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