[Joshyboy26]

Sweet yh i got my old one i munched a pinion on so that will work just fine.

[86slowsierra]

what product do you guys use for sealing up the welds?
Im no boiler maker so im counting on some product to make my welds oil tight.
ive used the metal putty in my shave and im fairly sure my car should be nick named 'The Sieve'
Perhaps a silicone based product would have achieved better results but i thought this might be a bit prone to failure in a diff housing.

[mrw82]

learn to weld better or get someone that can weld properly to do the job for you.

[86slowsierra]

learn to post some positive information or get someone to do it for you

i believe i asked about sealing products not about my welding skills.

[mrw82]

seal it with a decent fucking weld was my point you simpleton.







it appears it's not just your sierra thats slow.....

[alien]

fight fight fight fight fight!

sikaflex would do it (i can't remember the number off the top of my head). Still, i wouldnt trust the sikaflex to hold pressure, which a diff goes through when its nice and hot and you go flying through a nice deep puddle of water...

[86slowsierra]

Cheers Alien.

i remember the first time i acted tough on an internet forum...

[atari4x4]

lol your keen taking advice from a graphic designer.

@ alien

[Joshyboy26]

I dont think it was meant as an insult. Its better to do something right in the first place rather than fuck it and bodgy it fixed. If ur really worried take ur diff apart and grind out ur welds and redo it. this is a bajillion times better than putting putty in it which will most likely come out and munch ur diff and seals to bits

[mrw82]

Joshyboy26 wrote:

I dont think it was meant as an insult. Its better to do something right in the first place rather than fuck it and bodgy it fixed. If ur really worried take ur diff apart and grind out ur welds and redo it. this is a bajillion times better than putting putty in it which will most likely come out and munch ur diff and seals to bits

[alien]

atari4x4 wrote:

lol your keen taking advice from a graphic designer.

@ alien

you know, i almost wrote that he should buy it in black, cos it looks nicer even if you're coating it in paint? =)

[Gwagensteve]

Diff shaves are a NIGHTMARE to seal up - it's not uncommon to have a couple of little weeps from them.... but I just mean oily stains on the housing, not actual dripping leaks.

I would agree with buffing the welds back with a flap disc and having a very good look for any imperfections - even tiny ones will weep oil once the paint gets rubbed off. If you wee anything, reweld and buff back again. Repeat 6867586757 times.

I would not use a sealant. IMHO it's never going to last in that environment.

Steve.

[Fatzook]

After a diff shave I pop a bung in where the outer seals go, then fit a blanking plate over the third bolting flange, and shove 60psi up its arse ( through a hose on the breather ). Then you spray the welds with soapy water and look for bubbles.

No bubbles, means no oil leaks

[ajsr]

Fatzook wrote:

After a diff shave I pop a bung in where the outer seals go, then fit a blanking plate over the third bolting flange, and shove 60psi up its arse ( through a hose on the breather ). Then you spray the welds with soapy water and look for bubbles.

No bubbles, means no oil leaks

X2
but 10 psi is heaps

[Gwagensteve]

Another option would be to buy some penetrant test aerosol cans from an engineering supplier.

Spray the penetrant on the inside, leave it 1/2 an hour or so, and check to see where it's worked its way through by spraying developer on the outside.

This stuff is available from most bearing sales/engineering supply places.

http://www.rocol.com/corp/index.php?opt ... Itemid=428

Should only be $20 a can or so and only two cans are really needed (penetrant/developer) cleaning can be done with carby/brake cleaner or thinners.

Steve.

[SierraDan]

x2.

That's how we crack tested the crossmember recall on the Hiluxes when I worked at Toyota. Awesome stuff.

[jdk81]

Used that stuff to check welds at my old work, after doing mechanical testing on the piece welded. great stuff.

[86slowsierra]

dwelling on it for a bit (mrw82 will love this) im going to have to rip the metal putty out and hit the welds up again. its far too a contaminated/volatile area.
But once i get it to a point where its just weeps out i think ill give brazing rods a go. But there is no welding back over it once i do that.
For leaks i just put the 2 bottom bolts in and fill with water and wait a bit. other wise its a pain/ cost to clean the area again, so i can weld over.

[GRPABT1]

Anyone remember Twisty's FJ40 Ubolt mounts? I always liked them, might need a little rethinking with the thin zook spring packs but the concept is good.

[Joshyboy26]

Yh they look pretty good too could be another option. Im goin away for a week before i start it so ive got some thinkin time haha

[Red89]

Fatzook wrote:

After a diff shave I pop a bung in where the outer seals go, then fit a blanking plate over the third bolting flange, and shove 60psi up its arse ( through a hose on the breather ). Then you spray the welds with soapy water and look for bubbles.

No bubbles, means no oil leaks

Did the same when my mate made my fuel cell, except we put a bit too much pressure in and ballooned it

[Joshyboy26]

Haha more capacity woohoo haha