[royce]

How many of you that are doing low km do regular changes?

the biggest killer of oil is acid, which start to build up as soon as you start the engine and is most common in engines that do a lot of short trips and dont heat the oil fully and engines that arent driven a lot, in these cases you really need to think about 3 monthly oil changes rather than 5000km

If I waited 5000km on my mini it would still have the same oil as when I bought it

[MacDaddy]

royce wrote:

How many of you that are doing low km do regular changes?

the biggest killer of oil is acid, which start to build up as soon as you start the engine and is most common in engines that do a lot of short trips and dont heat the oil fully and engines that arent driven a lot, in these cases you really need to think about 3 monthly oil changes rather than 5000km

If I waited 5000km on my mini it would still have the same oil as when I bought it

I do

I would like to know how the acid is formed, and its effects...

Yep, even if i dont do 5000km, normally average about 3000km, i change it every 3months, i know when its getting close by the colour of the oil, its stays pretty clear for the first 2 months, then starts to discolour about mid 3rd month, gotta love engine flush for keeping the oil cleaner longer...

[TheOtherLeft]

MacDaddy wrote:

Yep, even if i dont do 5000km, normally average about 3000km, i change it every 3months, i know when its getting close by the colour of the oil, its stays pretty clear for the first 2 months, then starts to discolour about mid 3rd month, gotta love engine flush for keeping the oil cleaner longer...

I thought oil getting dirty is a good thing. Engine oil is meant to suspend particulates/soot etc. So if your new oil is not getting dirty then the soot is going somewhere else? I know filters are well designed but they can't be that good that it filters all of the soot out of the oil.

I know on my old 1HZ Troopy the new oil would go black as night after a few starts.

On my GV it starts to darken slightly after a few starts as well. This was with an engine flush and using Castrol Magnetec oil.

Maybe I'm off target???

[mcwilly]

I use second hand diff oil

[Rockhopper]

royce wrote:

How many of you that are doing low km do regular changes?

the biggest killer of oil is acid, which start to build up as soon as you start the engine and is most common in engines that do a lot of short trips and dont heat the oil fully and engines that arent driven a lot, in these cases you really need to think about 3 monthly oil changes rather than 5000km

If I waited 5000km on my mini it would still have the same oil as when I bought it

Every 6 months on mine (and the wife's) car. I like the Penrite 'Sin' series of oils for our cars. Not cheap, but it's good quality. I've looked around for Motul oils, but Sydney seems to be short of suppliers. Went into one place that has Motul plastered all over the front of his shop and he tried to sell me Shell Helix at a heavily inflated price

[Reubs]

MacDaddy wrote:

I would like to know how the acid is formed

I'm no expert but isn't water and sulphur both by-products of combustion?

A very small amount get into the sump caused by blow-by past the pistons.

Mix sulphur with water and you have sulphuric acid.

[MacDaddy]

Reubs wrote:

MacDaddy wrote:

I would like to know how the acid is formed

I'm no expert but isn't water and sulphur both by-products of combustion?

A very small amount get into the sump caused by blow-by past the pistons.

Mix sulphur with water and you have sulphuric acid.

Ahhh ok, that makes sense, especially all the Sulphur they put in regular unleaded... which is why i only use premium unleaded...

Correct, H2SO4, Sulphuric Acid...

[Scales]

Penrite does all my fluids

Engine
EVERYDAY DRIVING 15W-40

Gearbox & T-case
TRANSAXLE 75

Diffs
HYPOID 80W-90

as per the penrite site.

i dont use oil flush, not sure if i should be or not... advice on that?

ps I do engine oil & filter every 5k, never let go more than 7k if i forget.

[MacDaddy]

Scales wrote:

Penrite does all my fluids

Engine
EVERYDAY DRIVING 15W-40

Gearbox & T-case
TRANSAXLE 75

Diffs
HYPOID 80W-90

as per the penrite site.

i dont use oil flush, not sure if i should be or not... advice on that?

ps I do engine oil & filter every 5k, never let go more than 7k if i forget.

It really cant hurt to use it, when i used it on my old 89 Vit the first time, i was shocked at how much crap and sludge came out
I use it all the time now, even in my GV... And i think it helps the new oil stay cleaner, and work/flow around the engine better...

[alien]

royce wrote:

alien wrote:

IMO brand isnt as important as the viscosity...

alien wrote:

i run 20w50 in mine... no syth or semi synth.

this is from the SJ413 FSM:

The vitara fsm has the same chart.

that chart kind of says viscosity doesn't matter so much, you've got just about every common viscosity listed as acceptable in Australia

cmon... not really... right now in WA we're having 26 degree nights and 40 degree days, pretty obvious that 20w50 is the better choice for the current season.

[Scales]

what oil flush do you guys recommend? just a generic nulon jobby from supergays? or something different? and how do you use it personally? ive heard different techniques involving leaving it in for longer and shorter periods etc.

[atari4x4]

Nulon Oil Flush is what Nissan Aust & many other manufactures use. I've been using it for the last 10 years in 2 4wds as I used to get free boxes from a mate at a Nissan Dealership, I've run out & can't get it for free any more so now I buy it.

I'm convinced it helps in keeping a clean motor clean inside for longer, wouldn't go using it on an oldish engine that is gunked up with sludge.

I'll dose mine with a full bottle to 5.5l of oil & let it idle for 10-15 minutes, drop the oil & let it drain properly, then splash another 150ml's or so in to wash down any of the crap that might be sitting around in the sump & to push out any of the left over old oil/oil flush. let it drain properly, change the filter, put the plug back in & refill.

I dump my oil every 5k, by that stage it's just starting to darken from the nice golden honey colour to the darker golden brown colour on the dipstick/paper towel. Run the Oil Flush through it & dump the oil & it comes out almost black. I think I could push my oil changes out to 6000 or 7000kms but it's to hard to remember when it needs doing I just do it as the ODO clicks over another 5k.

The J20a's are renowned for timing chain rattle on startup, mine doesn't rattle at all @ 163,000kms & the top end of my motor is spotlessly clean.

[MacDaddy]

atari4x4 wrote:

Nulon Oil Flush is what Nissan Aust & many other manufactures use. I've been using it for the last 10 years in 2 4wds as I used to get free boxes from a mate at a Nissan Dealership, I've run out & can't get it for free any more so now I buy it.

I'm convinced it helps in keeping a clean motor clean inside for longer, wouldn't go using it on an oldish engine that is gunked up with sludge.

I'll dose mine with a full bottle to 5.5l of oil & let it idle for 10-15 minutes, drop the oil & let it drain properly, then splash another 150ml's or so in to wash down any of the crap that might be sitting around in the sump & to push out any of the left over old oil/oil flush. let it drain properly, change the filter, put the plug back in & refill.

I dump my oil every 5k, by that stage it's just starting to darken from the nice golden honey colour to the darker golden brown colour on the dipstick/paper towel. Run the Oil Flush through it & dump the oil & it comes out almost black. I think I could push my oil changes out to 6000 or 7000kms but it's to hard to remember when it needs doing I just do it as the ODO clicks over another 5k.

The J20a's are renowned for timing chain rattle on startup, mine doesn't rattle at all @ 163,000kms & the top end of my motor is spotlessly clean.

Yep i just use the Nulon Flush... i am convinced it keeps the engine cleaner for longer too...

If you are using it for the first time, i would poor it in a go for a drive, 15mins of idleing wont be enough to loosen all the years of gunk and sludge up, my last service on my GV, i put the flush in, and then drove to my Mechanic, a good 30 to 40min drive, it wont hurt the engine at all doing this... and then be amazed how much crap comes out of your engine !

[atari4x4]

personally i wouldn't drive it with the oil flush in the motor.

[wolf_rt]

I wouldn't use full synthetic in a engine that wasn't run in for, and has always used synthetic, or you get an experience like SuziBlu (btw, there's nothing wrong with your engine, you just shouldn't swap to synthetic after using mineral oil for a long time)

if you don't run a catalytic converter or oxygen sensor I would run diesel 15w-40 (Rimula Super) at it contains zinc dithiophosphate, which is good stuff

[MacDaddy]

atari4x4 wrote:

personally i wouldn't drive it with the oil flush in the motor.

Well it hasnt hurt any zook i have had with it in... but seeing as it will be the first time with engine flush, its gonna need more than 15mins idleing, even if it was a quick 15min drive, but drive easy, dont thrash it, it should be ok...

[ajsr]

atari4x4 wrote:

personally i wouldn't drive it with the oil flush in the motor.

X100
oil flushes do not add anything in the way of extras to support the engine load while cleaning it , instead they strip the old oil as well as gunk in your engine off its components while in there and just water down the oils protective qualities.so loading your bearings and lifters etc is likely not a great idea
they even state on MOST oil flushes not to drive the vehicle and just run it at idle for X time.

ps the wurth oil flush version is by far the best Ive used it will clean an engine so clean you cannont see the new oil on the dipstick 1/2 hour after you added new oil.
wurth also make an engine additive that add extra zinc and GOOD scuffing additives (not pfte) into your oil after the flush.
this stuff made a motor we have at work stop ticking(badly) inside 5 minutes for good.
All these wurth products are expensive however,double say nulon or the like.

as usual JMO do with it as you will

[MacDaddy]

ajsr wrote:

atari4x4 wrote:

personally i wouldn't drive it with the oil flush in the motor.

X100
oil flushes do not add anything in the way of extras to support the engine load while cleaning it , instead they strip the old oil as well as gunk in your engine off its components while in there and just water down the oils protective qualities.so loading your bearings and lifters etc is likely not a great idea
they even state on MOST oil flushes not to drive the vehicle and just run it at idle for X time.

ps the wurth oil flush version is by far the best Ive used it will clean an engine so clean you cannont see the new oil on the dipstick 1/2 hour after you added new oil.
wurth also make an engine additive that add extra zinc and GOOD scuffing additives (not pfte) into your oil after the flush.
this stuff made a motor we have at work stop ticking(badly) inside 5 minutes for good.
All these wurth products are expensive however,double say nulon or the like.

as usual JMO do with it as you will

Ok, now that you have explained it, i probably wont do it again... but i havnt had any trouble with it... oh well, you live and learn...
Were can we get the Wurth from, i havnt seen it in any auto stores ?

[MacDaddy]

The latest RAC members magazine, issue 29, looks at 14 common motoring myths... and one of those myths, is warming the engine, they say it is a myth...

Quote " Your grandfather may have warmed up his prize holden... but the requirement to warm up a cars engine is less relevant today, due to the high grade engine oils that help protect an engine at cold start... " yes this is true, but what about oil pressure, and how well the oil flows when its cold...
Quote " Still, where possible gentle driving is recommened, after starting the engine, while it warms up... " way to cover your ass RAC, why not just let it run for 5 mins while stationary... while this article is essentially true, it could be misconstrued by some people reading it, who have older cars/engines, and they do more damage to their engine, by not letting it warm up a little, even with modern engine oil...
They really need to be alot more specific, as most dont own a car thats only a few years old... i feel like sending them an email about this...

[masterA]

GRPABT1 wrote:

My GTi motor only likes Castrol, any other brand and the lifters tick before 5000km. I use magnetic cause the right viscosity edge is $75 a bottle!

Magnatec made mine tick on startup
Every since i started using penrite 10-40 full synthetic the ticking stopped
Im using that in my freshly rebuilt GTi engine although
Nulon synth is also an awsome oil and would be my second choice for a freshly rebuilt engine plus it's Australian owned

In my old sierra it wasn't really an issue...used a fairly cheaper oil around 15-40

Oh...BTW - Nulon or Wurth engine oil flush is awsome (do it about 3-5 services apart)

[joel]

laurie wrote:

penrite 15-40 change every 5k filter every 10k
100ml of kero 10 min before a change every 50k

really?? i wouldnt bother putting $70 of oil in my car if i wasnt going to spend the extra $10 and change the filter at the same time, seems silly IMO.

[SuziBlu]

Changing the oil, and using the same filter is the same as having a shower, and putting your dirty cloths back on.

[zukmeista]

alien wrote:

royce wrote:

alien wrote:

IMO brand isnt as important as the viscosity...

alien wrote:

i run 20w50 in mine... no syth or semi synth.

this is from the SJ413 FSM:

The vitara fsm has the same chart.

that chart kind of says viscosity doesn't matter so much, you've got just about every common viscosity listed as acceptable in Australia

cmon... not really... right now in WA we're having 26 degree nights and 40 degree days, pretty obvious that 20w50 is the better choice for the current season.

I see on this chart that it says to use 10w30 for temps between -20 and +30. the temp never goes above 30 in N.Z. Should I use 10w30?

[MacDaddy]

zukmeista wrote:

alien wrote:

royce wrote:

alien wrote:

IMO brand isnt as important as the viscosity...

alien wrote:

i run 20w50 in mine... no syth or semi synth.

this is from the SJ413 FSM:

The vitara fsm has the same chart.

that chart kind of says viscosity doesn't matter so much, you've got just about every common viscosity listed as acceptable in Australia

cmon... not really... right now in WA we're having 26 degree nights and 40 degree days, pretty obvious that 20w50 is the better choice for the current season.

I see on this chart that it says to use 10w30 for temps between -20 and +30. the temp never goes above 30 in N.Z. Should I use 10w30?

You could, if it was just a road car... but... IMO, if you go 4wheelin a fair bit, and work the engine hard, i would go for a 10W40 instead, gives you that little bit more...