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Post Posted: Thu Mar 26, 2009 3:18 am 
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just put a recond G16b in my sierra and i am curious to know what sought of consumption i should get out of it?? (i dont thrash it) and what is a good 'run in' process?? how long for load revs etc
cheers jamie

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Post Posted: Thu Mar 26, 2009 3:27 am 
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ask 10 people the best way to run a engine in and you will get 10 different answers. i recon it is more important to use good oil and change it often, the longest i leave any off my cars is 3 months or 5000ks. i will often change the
oil just so i don't have to mow the lawn and it makes me look busy. :lol:
also if you change the oil, change the filter.

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Post Posted: Thu Mar 26, 2009 3:35 am 
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hahaha i love the passion and i plan on doing frequent oil changes but this motor to date has 68 km on it so i am wondering waht sought of driving i should be putting it through and weather or not it iwll be better consumption than the 1.3??

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Post Posted: Thu Mar 26, 2009 11:19 am 
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dont use good oil in the 1st 1000km, the rings wont bed in (running in you actually want the engine to wear a bit so it all fits perfect)

just take it easy, no high revs, no extended idling, dont sit on one revs for a long time (highway) dont load it up too much, dont drive on it cold (should never drive a cold engine anyway)

if you imagine the driving you would do going around back streets thats pretty much perfect, combined with a few stabs up to 80km/hr and stuff

consumption will probably be about the same

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Joined: Mon Apr 21, 2008 11:30 pm
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Location: Bulimba, Brisbane
Vehicle: '92 Sierra

Post Posted: Thu Mar 26, 2009 12:24 pm 
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Did it come with oil? Theres actually a mineral oil you can get that is called break in oil or run in oil or seomthing similar. They recommend no synthetic oils for the run in period. I'm with Shep. Everyones got a different way. In the sports bike world theres a guy out there that recommends you flog the bike straight out of the box and change the oil like 3 times in the first 1000km. I did this on my 06 Ninja and it runs like a charm. Don't know if I'd be comfortable doing that on an non factory built engine though lol.

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Joined: Fri Jul 25, 2008 11:30 pm
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Post Posted: Thu Mar 26, 2009 2:58 pm 
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go here mate http://www.mototuneusa.com/break_in_secrets.htm

ALL my vehicles I have evr owned were run in like this with awesome results ( he doesn't say FLOG them, just running them hard)

For those who say never drive a car cold maybe Dr Karl could show you something ( as he did me)

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Post Posted: Thu Mar 26, 2009 5:27 pm 
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twitchy wrote:


Yep thats the dude I was talking about. I followed his recommendations for running in my Ninja.

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Post Posted: Thu Mar 26, 2009 6:29 pm 
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Dr Karl is a wanker though, engine have lots of bits that are designed to slide over each other at certain speeds and they are designed with a certain tolerance between them, this tolerance is always set when the engine is at running temp :wink: oil needs time to get round and into all the correct places as well.

That break in bloke makes sense in about 2 sentances and it is right that break in is dictated by how the engine is built, but if you think you are going to run out of cross hatch on the cylinder walls you must be feeding plutonium or something into the fuel tank, that shit lasts years!!!!!

HTF does manifold vacuum suck the oil off the cylinder walls?

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Post Posted: Thu Mar 26, 2009 7:08 pm 
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the only new motor that i have had and have looked inside later was a
1000cc honda bike motor. i ran it in according to the hand book which was to
not use full throttle and to avoid a steady throttle. 24 hours after i picked it
up i had the 1000ks done and had it serviced. from the first service and
every service after i used a fully synthetic oil (rock oil) and never left it longer then 5000ks or 3months. most off the riding that i used to do was within
500 revs of redline and held there for hole tanks off fuel, i used to regularity do 350km at a average speed of 250kph on 40deg days, tyres used to melt some times i couldn't get 1000ks out of a back tyre(bt50ss)
i did 80000ks in two years and more then 50% of that was within 500revs off
redline. premium unleaded wasn't available in the NT so it was run on crap and
i never had a issue with any engine component. the fella i sold the bike to striped it down for a new timing chain and just to check it out. fairdinkem
it was like a new motor inside and still went very well.

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Post Posted: Thu Mar 26, 2009 8:54 pm 
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royce wrote:
Dr Karl is a wanker though, engine have lots of bits that are designed to slide over each other at certain speeds and they are designed with a certain tolerance between them, this tolerance is always set when the engine is at running temp :wink: oil needs time to get round and into all the correct places as well.



Yeah a man who spent most of his life DOING experiments to get REAL results, & do you have any better info than what was in his last book about engine life & what was the best thing or do you just need some tissues buddy??? :P

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Post Posted: Thu Mar 26, 2009 9:16 pm 
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Dr Karl isnt an F1 engine builder or even a Toyota engine development guy is he?

what do you think a guy you makes a living blabbering on radio about everything actually has in the way of indepth knowledge on stuff?

if a gazzilion massive comanies that BUILD the stuff say do 1 thing and one hazbeen says something else I know who I will listen to, same guy says there is no need for any 4wd's ever

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Joined: Sat Aug 12, 2006 11:30 pm
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Post Posted: Thu Mar 26, 2009 10:01 pm 
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My girlfriends new swift sport, doesnt get its first oil change till 7000kms, the first 1000km service was just a free check over. i questioned this with them and several mechanics.
And was told, new technology has changed the way the engines wear. aparently most new engines in new cars just before being bolted in or after bolting in are held at redline for about 10 seconds!!!!

Ive made sure we havent giving it a hard time till after 1000 km's anyway, but in saying this its only just freeing up and accelerating faster and easier now near 3000km.

Chop

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Suzuki's are like Mogwai's, they multiply!

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Post Posted: Thu Mar 26, 2009 10:04 pm 
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You is funny Roycee, can I have my fishing gear back now please.......... :goodjob: peaceout

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Post Posted: Thu Mar 26, 2009 10:07 pm 
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whats the name of the book? can I find it in the comedy section I am going to get it on the way home to see why my flogged from cold sierra engine was so shit :)

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Post Posted: Thu Mar 26, 2009 10:23 pm 
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hahah this topic turned out to be a rather touchy one! but thanks for all your input guys. does 1000 kms sound fair before flat footing it? and should i be accelerating hard or just normal driving? as long as i dont sit at a constant speed for ages? fluctuate the load??

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Post Posted: Thu Mar 26, 2009 10:34 pm 
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royce wrote:
whats the name of the book? can I find it in the comedy section I am going to get it on the way home to see why my flogged from cold sierra engine was so shit :)


No one said to flog it from cold mate, but the book is "Science is Golden" find one & read what the hasbeen has to say............

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Post Posted: Fri Mar 27, 2009 1:14 am 
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ha I went and found it and read it, he would make a good jounalist cause he has jsut googled up bits to suit him.

he says no point idling and engine from cold up to temp and sprukes on about petrol droplets diluting the oil, true idle from cold is bad and you needa bit higher revs than they and you arent going to get any oil dilution from a cold idling engine.

his whole bit about running in an engine was centred around his mate saying his new car didnt have a 1000km oil change and they told him they hold em flat for 10 seconds straight off the factory floor to run em in!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!1!1!!!11111!!!!11!!!one!!!!11!1!!

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