[supa_slim]

I'm putting wt diffs into my nt zook soon
And doing ruf at the same time
Is there anything i should know before I do this ??

[Rusho]

A very good grasp of how to weld and fabricate

[supa_slim]

That part should be fine as im an apprentice boilermaker

[zooky08]

Make sure you get your pinion angles in the right spot.

[SierraDan]

Bolt your wheels on.

[MUD-PIG]

What SierraDan said.

[86slowsierra]

go slow.
limit heat/ warping.
one side at a time.
double check all the time to make sure both perches are level with each other.
its a shite load easier if you buy prefabbed spring perches. check the business section on here.

[Rusho]

86slowsierra wrote:

go slow.
limit heat/ warping.
one side at a time.
double check all the time to make sure both perches are level with each other.
its a shite load easier if you buy prefabbed spring perches. check the business section on here.

TSOR sells them..and if you ask him nicely he has a jig for glueing them on

[Fatzook]

Rusho wrote:

86slowsierra wrote:

go slow.
limit heat/ warping.
one side at a time.
double check all the time to make sure both perches are level with each other.
its a shite load easier if you buy prefabbed spring perches. check the business section on here.

TSOR sells them..and if you ask him nicely he has a jig for glueing them on

This is true.

I don't usually spam threads but I do a fair few of these. If you remove your old perches from your housings I will glue on some brand spankers for $150 incl. the new laser cut perches. Thats both diffs.

Offer is open to anyone

[sideways]

Fatzook wrote:

Rusho wrote:

86slowsierra wrote:

go slow.
limit heat/ warping.
one side at a time.
double check all the time to make sure both perches are level with each other.
its a shite load easier if you buy prefabbed spring perches. check the business section on here.

TSOR sells them..and if you ask him nicely he has a jig for glueing them on

This is true.

I don't usually spam threads but I do a fair few of these. If you remove your old perches from your housings I will glue on some brand spankers for $150 incl. the new laser cut perches. Thats both diffs.

Offer is open to anyone

Move to W.A you bastard.

Good deal indeed.

[Jazzor]

You may need a front tail shaft spacer as the dif moves forwards 5cm if the rear springs are 10cm longer, I used a 2" one to take the slop out of mine.
You will need to consider the wt dif only has 1 rear brake line instead of 2. I just ran one for a while and it seemed ok. (Now I have a rear disc conversion for a NT so I could use both brake lines again).
You will need to move any front bump stops forward as they will not line up with the dif any more.
Read a few RUF threads on how people have extended the chassis/made up new spring mounts and extended shackles etc, there are a few pics and ideas floating around.
Try and get the new perches flat, i reused mine and I can now see buying premade ones would be easier to position and reuse .
Your NT dif centres will bolt right in, so no flange swapping and slightly lower gears etc.

Enjoy no tyres rubbing on the springs/body!!

[Fatzook]

Jazzor wrote:

You may need a front tail shaft spacer as the dif moves forwards 5cm if the rear springs are 10cm longer, I used a 2" one to take the slop out of mine.

RUF does NOT move the axle forward 50mm. This would cause the Tie rod and drag link to foul heavily on each other during suspension cycling. And not every spring has its locating pin half way along the spring, so there is no garantee that a 100mm longer spring will locate the axle 50mm forward.

[Jazzor]

How long are rear springs compared to front springs then? , and sierra leafs have the locating pin in the centre yes? that number sounded familiar to me :/.

Cheers!

[Fatzook]

70mm? Can't remember if they are centred or not.

[2stroker]

75mm and not centred

[Jazzor]

Cheers, not-centered aye, they look dam close. I will have to get out the measuring tape next time I visit my zook .

[gregc]

You might want to add caster to the front end to counter the affect of the longer shackles and lifted springs. My car runs 5 degree caster wedges as a fix - but if I was cutting the mounts again I'd sort that out.

You could also look at running the rear end wt (I.e. change the chassis mounts to match the diff) as you will have a bit more roll stiffness which will force the front end to work more.