[Shelby]

I have a couple of questions......

Easter i plan to pull apart the motor n replace watever needs to be...

i have fairly good knowledge of motors, im a 1st year marine mechanic, goin on 2nd in a couple of months and the 3cyl 50 motor really couldnt be that hard to get ur head around

1. Any precautions, warnings i should know about b4 i start and the best way to approach it.

2. If any of you have done what im going to undertake what do u advise to be replaced or upgraded?

3. i was told when i recieved the car that the head was off and had water down the guts of it but was drianed and diesel/ petrol cant quite remember which 1, was poured down it to try prevent rust for a bit. I took the head off at about xmas n it looked fine to me. Any thoughts, opinions on that?

Any advice would be appreciated.

[TZAR]

Take a press to put new big end and conrod bearings in the motor

Being a marine mechanic you should be able to source some fantastic upgrades for this motor. Talk to 3cyl? on here as he has some great info on upgrades from the 1980s for these.

Lots of people used power pipes from jet skis and triple carbs from outboards to get extra power

[3cyl]

I've not yet rebuilt a crank as I've always found a good one. Check the crank case carefully for cracks, make sure the flywheel key is ok, also the distributor drive gears and advance mechanism. If it has had water in it check the crank bearings. Oil pump, lines and washers and hoses are available through Suzuki as well as pistons and rings (just be persistent) and gaskets through Repco. Lots of later suzi parts can be adapted and driveline is more my area. Tzar is the real LJ guru probably forgotten more than I know.
Being a marine mechanic if you decide to rebuild a crank, PM me as it will be cheaper if I pay you to do 1 for me too.
Oh and join lj10.com

[TZAR]

Forgot to tell you I could get pistons quicker from japan via washington than I could from Acacia ridge to stafford ( less than 50kms)

Suzuki had them in the warehouse but f#$%@# around so much I got them through Stevec on LJ10.com much quicker.

Most parts are the same throughout the models and some research on parts will find that LJ parts were still used on the sierra from the factory.

I sold a good motor to the guy that bought my one owner ( before me) LJ50 for $200. Just was being wasted as I didn't have the time to fix her.

Got a few books here but also have a cranky arse bitch wife at the moment so researching for you may not be possible this weekend. Something about people on the internet and your cars are more important than me s#$% that she gets when she bleeds.

[Shelby]

Instead of trying to source out gaskets could i just use gasket paper to make them? if so wat thinkness and material?

i also bought Permatex Gasket maker "Blue RTV" this one in particular is to make a gasket not prime the surface like the other 1. we depend on Permatex at work it is good shit!!!

[TZAR]

yes but it would be hard with the head studs in the way.

ACL do a full gasket set for around $150. get them from repco. Tell them ACL do do the gasket kit and if you have trouble let me know as I have a full kit here ( I think somewhere) for $150

Easy as then you have a new head gasket and all other gaskets too.

[3cyl]

As mentioned in the previous posts gaskets are available through Repco, ACL brand part no. GD 720. I also have a kit in the parts cupboard. Ask them and they'll have it the next day.
So Tzar, interested in coming on the Zook run at Landbruiser park 18-19 April? Hopefully 3 of us going in LJ 50s so far. She'll be happy by then.

[3cyl]

Oh and another reason to use original gaskets is the thickness of the base gasket is critical for port timing. The distributor drive housing has to be cleaned out then refilled with grease to 1/3 it's volume (obviously no oil pressure for lube). Also check the distributor advance mechanism isn't seized.
You also need to clean out the oil pump, oil reservoir and lines and use new, clean 2 stroke oil and always use the same stuff.