[fordem]

The whole idea of a fuse, is to prevent a fire.

[fordem]

A fuse is a fire protection device - nothing more, nothing less - it's not a diagnostic indicator to let you know when there is a short circuit, it's a failsafe device to prevent the wiring from overheating and possibly starting a fire in case of an overload or short circuit.

[Reubs]

want33s wrote:

I'm curious about this isolator idea....
How do you know if there is a short? Is it when the isolator switch block melts or when the cables catch fire?
Where can you buy 400A battery switches?

Narva Part No.: 61082BL - order from Repco etc. Only 300A continuous but 1500A rated for 10 seconds so would suit a small winch.

Yes - the battery switch would isolate your wiring when the winch is not in use, however don't expect your switch to last long after attempting to break nearly 1000A if you switch it off whilst you have a dead short downstream of it.

In a way your winch solenoid box is an isolator though and would only fail to isolate in the unlikely event of welded contacts or a short in the control wiring, therefore if you had your solenoid box mounted as close to the battery as practical then there wouldn't there be no benefit in fitting a battery switch?

[britvit]

Redarc suggest you connect your winch like this......

[want33s]

britvit wrote:

Redarc suggest you connect your winch like this......

Hey Sid, what size is the Redarc solenoid in those instructions?

I wouldn't want the full power of an N70 or similar going through some of the smaller units.
Both my Zook and Patrol have 200A Redarc units and I quite often wonder exactly how much power is going through them and whether or not they are being overloaded.

[Chop]

Pretty sure they recommend a 200amp solenoid for heavy winching.

[britvit]

From the links on this page http://redarc.com.au/products-and-servi ... y-isolator



Have you found your Redarc's to be reliable? I haven't heard a bad word about them. One of the farm vehicles here has a Phirana system which has died- just out of warranty as usual.

[want33s]

My Redarc's have been faultless. I'm very happy with them.
I especially like the over-ride function so if you run your main battery flat by leaving the lights on or whatever, you just press the button and turn the key.

[Scales]

i run my redarc system in a similar way to that diagram except instead of a relay to activate the overide when the winch is running (which is all that relay does) i use a customrockers switch labelled "aux batt" it just keeps the redarc energised for winching or jump-starting myself.

oh and my winch is connected to start battery not in the middle of the two like that diag.

so i have to press 3 buttons to get winching
1. aux batt
2. winch isolator (just a control isolation)
3. winch in/out

it keeps the redarc energised the whole time and i can override it off also if i need to break the link for any reason. im not running any fuses though yet.

[ZookFan]

What amp cable should I run for a switch in the cab for the winch??

Also what amp should the switch be??

Tigerz 11 6000 pound winch

[ZookFan]

Bump!

[Dr_Snapid]

The switch in the cab should not need to be high current, all it does is operate the winch solenoid. Use whatever you want. Any momentary rocker should be ok if set up this way

[got_bar_work]

Take a inline fuse holder direct off the batt with like a 5 a fuse
Run a small cable to a switch a nice red one is good idea as then u know its a isolator
From the switch go to another two way non latching switch in and out
Take the two switch and the power wires to the controll box and parallel them with the hand controller socket wires on the front of the relay
Best to mount the controll box right next to the batt if posible
I extended the hand controller socket out on to the bull bar
This will give u in cab controlls and the ability to isolate the winch when not in use
This way u have no live cables out near the front of the car unless the winch is running
And it gets the controll box out of the mud

[Dr_Snapid]

got_bar_work wrote:

Take a inline fuse holder direct off the batt with like a 5 a fuse
Run a small cable to a switch a nice red one is good idea as then u know its a isolator
From the switch go to another two way non latching switch in and out
Take the two switch and the power wires to the controll box and parallel them with the hand controller socket wires on the front of the relay
Best to mount the controll box right next to the batt if posible
I extended the hand controller socket out on to the bull bar
This will give u in cab controlls and the ability to isolate the winch when not in use
This way u have no live cables out near the front of the car unless the winch is running
And it gets the controll box out of the mud

+1