[Damo]

zookernator wrote:

Hello again!!! Just wondering, can i remove the air flow sensor, and somehow install it into the sierra 1.3 airbox? The vit airbox is a huge piece of equipment.. and would be ever so nice if i could keep the sierras stock airbox!! Pics would be very handy to please

The Vit filter housing is not necessary. If you want to replace that with the Sierra one then go ahead. As long as the airflow meter remains in the inlet tract you should be good. And make sure there are not air leaks in the piping between the airflow meter and the throttle body.

Oh, and i'm pretty sure I remember my AFM had an arrow on the side which shows which direction the air should flow, take note of that.

[kenn]

Hope this helps Zookernator
Air filter box..


Coil..

Good luck..

[zookernator]

Thanks peoples... I have got the airbox stuff all sorted now.. running a similar setup to yours kenn. That coil in your pic, thats the type that i dont have. And as you know, it seems very complicated compared to the 1.3 type!! Im guessing there is no way i can continue to use the 1.3, but im hoping that i can, cause i havent been able to find that 1.6 type yet

[joeblow]

that coil has an 'igniter' sitting behind it, that is the most crucial part. otherwise, as you can see on the coil, it only has two wires coming out of it.

[zookernator]

hmmm.. thanks joe

[3cyl]

OMG how'd that get in there? Fair bodylift and custom sump I'd imagine (still had centred diffs (custom 1.3 housings?) last photo I've seen). That was you wasn't it Joe? Details please? Custom extractors?

[brendan]

while on the subject of 1.6 efi. i would just like to know where the air intake temp sensor is located? this is just for interest

[kenn]

3cyl wrote:

OMG how'd that get in there? Fair bodylift and custom sump I'd imagine (still had centred diffs (custom 1.3 housings?) last photo I've seen). That was you wasn't it Joe? Details please? Custom extractors?

Really big shoe horn
Yes custom exhaust (Performance Exhaust in Ringwood Vic.) trimmed the bottom off the sump and 2" body lift..

[joeblow]

3cyl wrote:

OMG how'd that get in there? Fair bodylift and custom sump I'd imagine (still had centred diffs (custom 1.3 housings?) last photo I've seen). That was you wasn't it Joe? Details please? Custom extractors?

more here.............

http://www.auszookers.com/index.php?nam ... pic&t=3682

[zookernator]

Another qtn please!! I have the dash/cluster from the vitara that i got the G16A out of. Now in regards to the VSS, would it be easier and quicker if i adapt the whole vit cluster into the sierra dash?? Would this then mean that the VSS is all done, and also the oil/water/tacho will be all happy, and no mods will be needed to get it all going? The donor vit was a manual to.. and i'm using my sierra 5 speed. Thanks heaps again!!

[BlueSuzy]

Whole vit cluster will look like poo.
Pull apart the cluster and just use the speedo mechanism. With the kms etc

[Scrawny]

Yeah, don't cheapen your Sierra with Vit parts

[zookernator]

Got both clusters apart just then.. Thanks lots So correct me if im wrong, but i've gotta put this vit speedo "business" into the sierra dash/cluster. The VSS is built within the vit speedo?? I need to run the VSS wire from the computer, to one of the 2 screws that is on the vit speedo (look on the vit cluster to see which one this is), and then the other screw is then earthed out.. this correct?? And at the end of the day, the VSS only improves fuel consumption.. is this also true? Thanks guys

[Taff]

optimises fueling at certain speeds.

it will make a full bees dick of difference, the only reason you do it is so your check engine light stops lighting up.

[zookernator]

Argh... so close!!!! The wiring is all sorted, and all plugged in. Now, it winds over nice and happily, is getting spark to the plugs, but only fires when you release the key from the cranking position (but does not fire everytime). So, its like it gets a bigger surge of power once you finish cranking it over. While cranking, the battery drops to around 11 Volts, but the coil only has 7 volts. So, it seems that somewhere along the line, im not getting the full power to the coil. I have tried running a relay in with the coil wire, but no luck.. still 7 volts while cranking. Oh, its a 1995 vitara G16A EFI 16V. PLEASE HELP!?!?!?

[royce]

just check where you have got your ignition feed into teh ECU from isnt dropping power off while cranking, I cant remember if sierras have 2 ignition feeds from the key but the accesories will drop off

[Hybrid]

Yeah kind of sounds like the feed to the comp is turning off while cranking then as you go back to on it powers up the computer and tries to fire. If that were the case you'd have no injector control while cranking. Not that I know how you'd do it on a port injection set up but try to work out if the injectors are firing while cranking.

[zookernator]

royce wrote:

just check where you have got your ignition feed into teh ECU from isnt dropping power off while cranking, I cant remember if sierras have 2 ignition feeds from the key but the accesories will drop off

Just checked.. it isnt dropping off.. its at around 9.5 volts while cranking..

[royce]

thats probably low enough to drop out some stuff, I would run a decent feed from battery straight to the ECU and pump and stuff via a relay to try and bring that up a bit

[zookernator]

hmmmm.. bugga. Last night we put a relay through the "cranking" wire.. made bugga all difference. Cant remember exactly what the gain was in volts, but the eng still didnt look like firing!! So you suggest me running a huge tonka tuff wire straight from the bat +, to the comp (via a fuse, and relay??) and try again?? We have kept the standard FI and fuel pump relays.. they are working fine..

[royce]

yeah anything that supplies power to the ECU or injectors or ignition you want the shortest run from battery to where its gotta go

does the ecu have a starter signal in wire? might not be pulsing the injectors with the engine RPM that low if it doesnt know its cranking?


but with voltage that low when cranking it sounds like there is another prob, whats the battery voltage just sitting with everything off?

FWIW my 40yo mini does the same when the battery is flat, cranks real slow then speeds up but wont fire till you release the key, if you time it right it lets the starter go as a piston is coming up and starts

[zookernator]

royce wrote:

yeah anything that supplies power to the ECU or injectors or ignition you want the shortest run from battery to where its gotta go

does the ecu have a starter signal in wire? might not be pulsing the injectors with the engine RPM that low if it doesnt know its cranking? Will go and have a look

but with voltage that low when cranking it sounds like there is another prob, whats the battery voltage just sitting with everything off? this is 12.6V for memory.. i had the battery on the charge last night for around 6 hours. The battery is 12 months old.. and is the biggest i could get for a sierra.
FWIW my 40yo mini does the same when the battery is flat, cranks real slow then speeds up but wont fire till you release the key, if you time it right it lets the starter go as a piston is coming up and starts

hehehe, god bless the old girls

[royce]

check along the power line to the coil too, try and find where the power is going, you might have a corroded terminal or something.

12.6 at the battery is ok, I would look at your battery leads as well to make sure they are corroded or loose, also fit a fat earth to the body as well as the block, power might be getting out but not getting back.

[zookernator]

ohhhh yes... makes sense.. the negative term was getting bloody hot last night, after only 6 or 7 secs of cranking. I just put a tonka tuff wire from + bat, to the + for the comp.. made no difference. I then got another vehicle and hooked the jumpers up.. was getting around 13.5 V at the cranking wire then.. but still no go!! I did what you said you do to the mini.. and it was sooo close to firing up.. but not quite!! I'll run up and get another earth lead and try. Oh, i couldnt see a starter sig in wire.. just the starter "circuit".. which could be what your refering to?

[Hybrid]

Can you pull the fuel rail and injectors and crank it in open air to make sure you are getting cranking fuel pulses to the injectors? (if you blow up I take no blame lol) Is the fuel pump definitely running when its cranking? Could it be that the fuel pump line loses 12 volts when the ignition is turned to crank?

[Hybrid]

double post

[zookernator]

Hybrid wrote:

Can you pull the fuel rail and injectors and crank it in open air to make sure you are getting cranking fuel pulses to the injectors? (if you blow up I take no blame lol) Is the fuel pump definitely running when its cranking? Could it be that the fuel pump line loses 12 volts when the ignition is turned to crank?

Last night we put the test light on #1 injector plug.. was getting power. Im sure its getting fuel, you can smell the fuel after you've been winding if for ages, and i also just put aerostart up the intake.. no difference at all. I also just put extra earth leads on as mentioned.. made no noticable difference..

[royce]

timing correct? firing the right cylinder at the right time

once you start aerostarting it you only need to worry about spark, can you put a timing light on it to see if its roughly ok

[zookernator]

royce wrote:

timing correct? firing the right cylinder at the right time

once you start aerostarting it you only need to worry about spark, can you put a timing light on it to see if its roughly ok

Done that last night (at about 2am!!).. seemed fine. If we swap 1&3, or 2&4 for example.. she shoots out one huge backfire!! If the timing was out, wouldnt it kick back, or backfire constantly out the exhaust/inlet?? Im not up to date with all this wizz bang computers and stuff.. so forgive me if im sounding rude!!

[royce]

if it backfires either of them when cranking when you swap them timing might be off, normally they will run with 2 leads swapped and not pop till you rev it to advance it

cam timing? have you seen this run? I would assume worst case and check it all, cam timing, rocker clearance, compression

then it will be something dumb like fuel hses back to front