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Post Posted: Mon May 07, 2012 12:37 pm 
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Hey so I have a 4door 97 vitara and I have bigger tyres than standard that i can't use because they rub on the body when i 4x4. So i would like to do a 1 inch body lift to fit em. Just wondering when i do this will anything need to be replaced, ajusted or lengthened? Also how will it effect handeling?
Thanks heaps!

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Post Posted: Mon May 07, 2012 12:50 pm 
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1" lift when fitted will be hardly noticable.
Things to watch are the brake lines between master and chassis.
The fuel filler pipe.
The gearshift holes.
Bumper/bar bracketry will need to be modded.

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Post Posted: Mon May 07, 2012 1:17 pm 
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Good list. 1" shouldn't kill anything, you may have to massage the holes in the trans tunnel where the shifters come through to give them room (or bend the shifters to suit.)

Release the clamp on the fuel filler hose at the top of the tank - you'll be able to get it back on no probs, just give it room to move while you're jacking the body around.

What size tyres are you running? Sure 1" will be enough?

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Post Posted: Mon May 07, 2012 3:33 pm 
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This guy can sell you 1" or 2" Body Lift.
viewtopic.php?f=15&t=15518

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Post Posted: Wed May 09, 2012 12:36 pm 
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Not sure what size tyres as they don't have normal measurements. How could I measure them? Will i need to extend the shifter or will it be able to compensate?
Thanks again

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Post Posted: Wed May 09, 2012 1:32 pm 
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just put the measurements up anyway someone will be able to tell you the size and weather one inch will be enough or not

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Post Posted: Sun May 13, 2012 7:54 pm 
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so I finally got to looking at those larger tyres in the shed, which are good-year wranglers, I think the measurements are in Inches as the measurements are: 30x9.5 R155LT. will these sized tyres fit on my car with a 2inch lift or will they scrape on the mud guards? will i need a 1 inch body lift with the 2 inch spring lift kit?

thanks agian guys!

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Post Posted: Sun May 13, 2012 8:52 pm 
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You will almost definately scrape under compression and turning. Depends alot on the actual tyre size, wheel size and offset and suspension dynamics. Good suspension will flex more meaning more rubbing.

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Post Posted: Sun May 13, 2012 10:45 pm 
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^^^ Truth.

Generally speaking 30s on standard offset, 2" lifted suspension and 1" body lift will scrub, but shouldn't be unbearable. Bit of bashing, trimming and steering stop adjustment and it should be OK.

Why not go 2" while you're at it, and that way if you want to step up to 31s in the future you've got space?

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Post Posted: Mon May 14, 2012 9:54 am 
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I've heard that putting a 2" body lift will cause problems with the gear box? And the shifter will need to be lengthened?,(Mine is manual if that helps) Also is this legal in south Australia? Just also wondering how it effects the handeling like is there a lot more body roll?

Yeah your right I'd love to put 31s on when my other wear out! :)

Thanks for your help!

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Post Posted: Mon May 14, 2012 11:27 am 
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There's no "problem" with the gearbox at 2" BL, only that the shifter may get tight on the rubber boot, likewise for the low range shifter. There's no guarantee this won't be case with a 1" lift though.

50mm BL's are generally legal/able to be approved, but I can't comment on SA specifically.

I'd be surprised of you could feel the difference in handling between a 1" and 2" BL, think about it, your'e lifting every bit of the car's weight 2" by putting 4" taller tyres on - but the added 1" of height between a 1" and 2" BL only affects the body, not the chassis, engine, gearbox, diffs etc.

I wouldn't bother with a 1" lift. It's the same amount of work as a 2" lift, but a 1" BL is going to make stuff all difference to tyre clearance over stock. The clearance problems you are talking about will be mostly at the rear edge of the front guards - and that's an almost vertical surface, so lifting it an inch isn't going to do much.

Steve.

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Post Posted: Mon May 14, 2012 2:14 pm 
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Thanks for your advice! I reckon Ill go with the 2" body lift now, does anyone have any build threds on here where I can get some tips on what to do/see pictures of someone putting one in?

how does this Kit look to you guys?
http://www.lowrangeoffroad.com/index.ph ... -lift.html

thanks.

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Post Posted: Mon May 14, 2012 2:30 pm 
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Charlie Brown wrote:
how does this Kit look to you guys?
http://www.lowrangeoffroad.com/index.ph ... -lift.html

Read the instructions, what are these:

-Custom-built stud connectors (gold zinc plated for corrosion resistance)

Is this a bit of hollow tube with a thread cut in it to make up for the fact the kit doesn't use female bolts?

Just_Cruizin sells body lift kits made here in Australia - his details are in the business section.

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Post Posted: Mon May 14, 2012 3:49 pm 
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hmmmmm yeah that doesnt sound to good if it is what you think it is!

Has anyone bought that kit?

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Post Posted: Mon May 14, 2012 5:06 pm 
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Why don't you just get a kit from Just_Cruizin or Peter and support local? You have been told these kits are the best around :roll:

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Post Posted: Mon May 14, 2012 7:14 pm 
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Yeah that's cool mate I was just exploring my options :) has anyone extended their shifter on here after the 2" body lift? If so how'd it go?

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Post Posted: Mon May 14, 2012 7:35 pm 
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There's no good reason to extend the gear shifter, just relieve the floor/console to allow full throw. Extending it will just give you really long throws. There's an added side effect too, which is that you apply more leverage to the shift rails if you extend the shifter and this increases the likelihood of bent shift forks etc.

However, it's not a bad idea to extend the low range shifter as it sinks really low into the boot once a 2" BL has been done.

Steve.

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Post Posted: Mon May 14, 2012 8:39 pm 
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Sweet thanks for that advice Steve its extremely valuable!

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Post Posted: Wed May 16, 2012 9:20 am 
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Hey one last thing (well I think so :lol: ), Could someone please post a pic of what the gearstick and the 4WD gear stick look like, without alteration, after the 2" body lift?

thanks!

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Post Posted: Wed May 16, 2012 10:27 am 
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Not really a useful pic, but this is the main shifter in neutral after a 2" BL:
Image
As you can see, not much throw for 2nd/4th/Rev, and it wouldn't stay in gear without constant downward pressure.
That is the stock outer boot sitting inside the surround, which has been trimmed at the back edge. With the UHF there it would turn the volume down in Rev and change channel in 2nd.

Transfer (even worse pic!)
Image
Boot and surround monstered, as the stock boot gathers under the knob and doesn't allow it to go back/down far enough to sit in 2H. Even then it was so hard into the surround that you couldn't get a finger underneath, and had to give it a good shove to engage 2WD.

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Post Posted: Wed May 16, 2012 11:51 am 
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Sweet mate thanks for the pics and descriptions! Yeah on the main Gear stick did you trim the boot a bit then kind of push it down into the hole? and with the 4WD one you made a new bood sort of thing?

thanks!

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Post Posted: Sat May 26, 2012 11:21 pm 
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Yep - tried trimming the main boot but couldn't get enough clearance, so just dropped it inside so there was some coverage. Trans boot was a combination of cheap -ebay universal leather boot and truck felt. Not my prettiest work. I've since had both shifters bent to sit better, and custom leather boots made up.

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Post Posted: Sun May 27, 2012 10:29 pm 
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So do you need to bend the shifters or do they pretty much sit in the middle? Thanks!

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Post Posted: Sun May 27, 2012 10:59 pm 
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Charlie Brown wrote:
So do you need to bend the shifters or do they pretty much sit in the middle? Thanks!

i didnt have to do anything on mine for the transmission stick :D only shaved a bit off the bottom of the transfer case knob.

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Post Posted: Sun May 27, 2012 11:51 pm 
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Mine are much better now they've been bent.

Wouldn't stay in 2nd/4th/Rev or 2H without a fair bit of cutting and removal of the stock boots.

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