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Post Posted: Fri Apr 27, 2012 5:24 pm 
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^^^ That's what I was trying to explain to you last time we spoke after I'd removed mine. No need for twin sticks and leaky rubber glove seals :D
That guy explains the shift process well, don't think I explained it that well :oops:

Pushing the two rods is a bit stiffer but once you've done it once it seems normal. First time I did it was by accident and I couldn't figure out what I'd done :roll:

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Post Posted: Wed May 09, 2012 7:54 pm 
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thanks for the write up on this, im going to order my ORA kit tonight :)

also what reduction dose the WT transfer give over std jimny? im running 30" tyres so im trying to work out what gears i need to get.

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Post Posted: Wed May 09, 2012 7:58 pm 
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lordviper556 wrote:
thanks for the write up on this, im going to order my ORA kit tonight :)

also what reduction dose the WT transfer give over std jimny? im running 30" tyres so im trying to work out what gears i need to get.


It will give you 12% reduction in high, so you will be reving about 3900rpm @100kph. 4.16 gear's will make it rev about 4200rpm @ 100kph. I have the gearing setup, but for 31's. It was fine to drive on the freeway with 235's tho.

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Post Posted: Wed May 09, 2012 9:39 pm 
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i just finished ordering my kit so now i just have to wait for it to get here and pickup a transfer and im set :woohoo:

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Post Posted: Wed May 09, 2012 9:41 pm 
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And drive shaft's ;)

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Post Posted: Wed May 09, 2012 9:45 pm 
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yea i got them lined up already thanks to want33s

he didnt have a transfer tho :(

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Post Posted: Tue May 15, 2012 8:57 pm 
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wat years do the transfer come in? i rang a shit load of wreckers and nobody had anything :(

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Post Posted: Tue May 15, 2012 10:09 pm 
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85 to 96 cases can fit but if u want flanges 88.5? to 96 modle are wt cases

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Post Posted: Tue May 15, 2012 10:20 pm 
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zooky08 wrote:
85 to 96 cases can fit but if u want flanges 88.5? to 96 modle are wt cases



probably safer to say 89-95. This eliminates the cross-over cases and early coily cases.

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Post Posted: Wed May 16, 2012 7:10 am 
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ok cool thanks. only place that had one had a 97 case so thats out. ill keep hunting.

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Post Posted: Thu May 17, 2012 4:25 pm 
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well i got all my gear on the way now 'cept for a jackshaft.

how difficult would it be to bend those shifter sticks without an oxy? and if i stuff it up, is it easy enough to get another stick for the case?

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Post Posted: Thu May 17, 2012 4:36 pm 
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I think with no heat it will be very difficult to bend. I bought a small gas torch, didn't get it as hot as an oxy would but it made it bend a lot easier.

One of these vvvv

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Post Posted: Thu May 17, 2012 4:54 pm 
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Haha, yep i got one of them in my toolbox actually. Didnt think it'd be beefy enough so i didnt bother mentioning. Was considering getting the MAPgas version for this job.

Is it a case of just bending it a bit, sit it in and see? or do you have to fully fit it each time? you had dramas with that clippy thing didnt u nutter..

oh, and will i have any issues due to the fact i got a 25mm spacer in the front shaft from doing the castor correction arms?

I know i got a few questions, just trying to get the job right in my head while im on shift before i get home in a few weeks to find im missing something cos i couldnt inspect it myself out here.

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Last edited by Scales on Thu May 17, 2012 5:10 pm, edited 1 time in total.
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Post Posted: Thu May 17, 2012 5:10 pm 
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Scales wrote:
Haha, yep i got one of them in my toolbox actually. Didnt think it'd be beefy enough so i didnt bother mentioning. Was considering getting the MAPgas version for this job.

Is it a case of just bending it a bit, sit it in and see? or do you have to fully fit it each time? you had dramas with that clippy thing didnt u nutter..



I still needed some leverage to bend it after heating it for a while. It's a trial and error type thing. Fit it in, loosely but seated, see where you need to start, make the bend, refit and see how you went and plan your next bend.
Took me a few goes to get it right. Mine doesn't have as many bends as monley's or 31zook's but monkey also mentioned having easy access to the "clippy thing", I don't. I think the revised ORA kit may have the transfer sitting further back in the chassis.

I made a tool to lock down the clippy thing, very easy now.

http://auszookers.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=14&t=22902&p

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Post Posted: Thu May 17, 2012 5:13 pm 
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thats the one i was thinking of. not sure how it operates but im sure ill figure out exactly whats what when i finally see the box in a few weeks.

PS great work with the write-up Monkey is a big help.

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Post Posted: Tue May 22, 2012 6:17 pm 
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this is a really good write up one day Ill be selling the lwb and updaating to a jimny so this will come in handy

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Post Posted: Tue May 22, 2012 7:14 pm 
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The sticks bend very easily with a press. Not even a big one. 10t should do it easy.

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Post Posted: Fri Jun 22, 2012 9:23 pm 
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I recall some having issues with whining noise after the swap. Although I have not put mine in just yet, I noticed that the nut holding the output shaft is of a specific torque setting. It pre loads the bearings and is crimped in place. As far as I could find 130Nm is the spec. Not sure if people are smashing it back on with a rattle gun or not causing the whining sound so I thought I would mention it here just incase .

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Post Posted: Wed Aug 29, 2012 6:46 pm 
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How much oil goes in the transfer case please?

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Post Posted: Sun Sep 02, 2012 7:31 am 
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Fill it up till it comes out the filler hole. That's how I've always done it.

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Post Posted: Mon Sep 10, 2012 9:44 pm 
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Thanks for the thread. Was a great help.

My gear stick was easy as to bend. Used the rear tow bar and a jack handle. Took me no more than 20 mins to bend.

For the locking ring into the box I used a pair of right angle cir clip pliers, another easy instal.

I will be looking at getting a spacer made up for the Jack Shaft so it sits in a little more.

I didnt have any wiring problems, I just pluged in and auto hubs and 4WD light work just like normal.

Thanks again. Very good info.

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Post Posted: Fri Oct 12, 2012 6:13 pm 
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monley wrote:
Hi guys,

Step 3: Now the speedo wheel needs to be put on the flange.

Image

Cheers,

Monley

You've obviously got your kit soon after production, that inductor wheel looks nice and shiny. I just got my kit (some many months after the new version was released) and the Speedo wheel was already rusting in the bag! I wonder how your speedo wheel is now looking after a bit of hard use and exposure. Is it rusting up? Has this affected the speedo reading accurately at all?

I am considering getting my speedo wheel soda blasted and chromate plated before I fit it to eliminate any corrosion issues down the track. Does anyone see any issues with this wheel getting electroplated? ie will a zinc chromate layer have an effect on the magnetic field for the pick-up/sensor?


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Post Posted: Fri Oct 12, 2012 6:48 pm 
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andrew wouldn't no if its rusted or not, he doesn't have his jimny any more.

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Post Posted: Fri Oct 12, 2012 7:29 pm 
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Hi guys.

The speedo pick up ring is not treated, rusting will not effect it's opperation at all.

It works just the same as an ABS sensor on any modern car, which are also untreated.

RB
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Post Posted: Fri Oct 12, 2012 8:10 pm 
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Thanks for the quick response. Didn't realise you blokes also drop in here from time to time. Great kit BTW!

So would the magnetic performance of the ring be affected by electroplating? I realise it will work OK when rusty, but I'm just averse to letting something rust for the sake of it.

Also, have you given any consideration to making the rings with additional teeth to correct the speedo reading for larger tyres? The ring has 25 teeth, if it was made with 26 or 27 teeth, this would provide 4% and 8% correction for bigger tyres. If the ring was a larger diameter, the pick-up could be spaced further away with a washer or shim to maintain correct clearance. Possible idea?

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Post Posted: Sat Oct 13, 2012 8:30 am 
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303zuke wrote:
Thanks for the quick response. Didn't realise you blokes also drop in here from time to time. Great kit BTW!

So would the magnetic performance of the ring be affected by electroplating? I realise it will work OK when rusty, but I'm just averse to letting something rust for the sake of it.

Also, have you given any consideration to making the rings with additional teeth to correct the speedo reading for larger tyres? The ring has 25 teeth, if it was made with 26 or 27 teeth, this would provide 4% and 8% correction for bigger tyres. If the ring was a larger diameter, the pick-up could be spaced further away with a washer or shim to maintain correct clearance. Possible idea?



X2 on the great kit Rob

Mine has been running now for 15 months without a glitch. Mine is the older style kit with the enclosed speedo ring but has seen its share of salty water.

I'd also love to get hold of a 27 tooth ring. I've thought about making one as per the Big Jimny DIY version, but an off the shelfer would be great... I'd buy that!

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Post Posted: Sun Oct 14, 2012 9:44 pm 
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I just painted my speedo pick up ring with rust proof painted well as the flange. Works fine for me and no rust at all.

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Post Posted: Sun Nov 04, 2012 10:43 am 
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Any one had problem with there speedo. Worked on my jimny case now it doesnt work at all on the sierra case.

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Post Posted: Sun Nov 04, 2012 1:43 pm 
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Mine has never skipped a beat. Something you've done wrong or damaged as you did the swap?!?!

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Post Posted: Sun Nov 04, 2012 3:34 pm 
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Not that i no of. Plug seems fine and speedo looks to be okay to.

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