[angus350]

g'day, im currentley pulling out my standard gearbox and motor out of my 86 lwb sierra and putting in a gti motor and a lower km gearbox out of a 90 sierra. my question is which clutch to use, iv rang 2 clutch shops and theyv both told me theirs more than 1 type of sierra clutch, i thought all 1.3 gearboxes where all the same ? obviousley the easy option is to take in the old clutch and match it up but will that work with the newer gearbox/gti ? or do i need one to suit the new gearbox

thanks

benn

[sando]

Count the splines on your new gearbox input shaft. tell the clutch shop that number and they will get you the right clutch. Don't get a heavy duty either will cause more problems.

[angus350]

thanks mate , what sort of problems do you mean with getting a heavy duty ? ive had them in a few others cars and theyv been fine

[boostedbrick]

Lots of people claim HD clutches cause problems with snapping cables and what not.... My heavy duty clutch gets abused and hasn't caused any issues. Pedal feel is better than my other rig with a standard clutch..


Which clutch you get will also depend on the fly wheel, one is stepped and the other is flat. (if your using the sierra flywheel that is)

[angus350]

thanks , ill take the fly wheel in with me and they can match it and machine it anyway

car already has a welded rear diff and gets driven preety hard on and off road so i would have thought a heavy duty would be better suited but weal see how i go. motor will be runing boost at some stage aswell but then everything will probabley breake anyway lol

[buzbox]

I experience a snapped clutch cable with a H/D clutch and had a standard clutch replaced. Yesterday i posted up a clutch thread in Noob techf or opinions and basically from my understanding and logic is that a standard clutch will do just fine, unless it's for a high torque / power motor.

My Vit has a minispool so it seems were in the same boat. Personally I'm going to save that extra $150 and stick with a STD clutch.

[stewy91]

I've also snapped my cable using hd clutch also snapped the thing that holds the cable to the top of the pedal. but they do take alot more abuse then std.

[oozuk]

some HD clutch's are shit and the reason they snap the clutch cable is because they have just increased the pressure plate spring pressure to gain more clamping force.

BUT..... there are other HD clutches that are awesome, i am running the excedy HD (pink) clutch kit.

where this kit is good is that yes they increase the spring pressure like everyone else to gain more clamping force, but the other thing they do is alter the pivot point in the pressure plate thus increasing the mechanical advantage of the clutch. what this means in laymen terms is that you will have big clutch clamping pressure whilst maintaining lite pedal pressure (mine was actually liter than a factory clutch)

the clutch take up point will feel different between STD to HD clutch's of this type but it's minimal.


hope that helps....

[reeceh]

I too have this pink exedy hd clutch! I found that it has bugger all pedal pressure aswell. However it's as if my cable is maxed out on all adjustment! It's a g16b in a Sierra. With Sierra flywheel/clutch/box!

I have the cable where it meets the block mount fully used up! The nuts are right at the end of the thread and nut right at the end of the cable is right at the end of the thread. Is there a pedal adjustment?? I had to do this to get the clutch pedal to let out properly.

Sorry for the hijack!

[oozuk]

reeceh wrote:

I too have this pink exedy hd clutch! I found that it has bugger all pedal pressure aswell. However it's as if my cable is maxed out on all adjustment! It's a g16b in a Sierra. With Sierra flywheel/clutch/box!

I have the cable where it meets the block mount fully used up! The nuts are right at the end of the thread and nut right at the end of the cable is right at the end of the thread. Is there a pedal adjustment?? I had to do this to get the clutch pedal to let out properly.

Sorry for the hijack!

no worries.

have you actually checked to see if you have correctly fitted the external clutch fork, you have to align the splines, there is a small dot that should line up with with void in the top of the pinch point of the fork, if still no good, remove the fork (no need to remove the gearbox) and rotate it back one spline and refit it then re attach the clutch cable.

[reeceh]

Thanks mate! I'll have a gander tomorow! I just wasn't getting the right take off. It would take off right at the top of the pedal! And now with Max adjustment it's still not the best. I like a pedal that takes off just off the floor!

[oozuk]

reeceh wrote:

Thanks mate! I'll have a gander tomorow! I just wasn't getting the right take off. It would take off right at the top of the pedal! And now with Max adjustment it's still not the best. I like a pedal that takes off just off the floor!

that's how mine is, idealy a clutch take up point should be in the 1/3 travel from the floor.

[reeceh]

Yes I agree!

[masterA]

oozuk wrote:

some HD clutch's are shit and the reason they snap the clutch cable is because they have just increased the pressure plate spring pressure to gain more clamping force.

BUT..... there are other HD clutches that are awesome, i am running the excedy HD (pink) clutch kit.

where this kit is good is that yes they increase the spring pressure like everyone else to gain more clamping force, but the other thing they do is alter the pivot point in the pressure plate thus increasing the mechanical advantage of the clutch. what this means in laymen terms is that you will have big clutch clamping pressure whilst maintaining lite pedal pressure (mine was actually liter than a factory clutch)

the clutch take up point will feel different between STD to HD clutch's of this type but it's minimal.


hope that helps....

I totally agree with oozuk here

I've got the Exedy HD clutch (part # SZK-6474HD) in both of my GTi sirra's and it's awsome
If you didn't know that the clutch was HD you won't feel the difference in the pedal
As for snapping clutch cables .....it can happen anytime especially if the cable is 25yrs plus......and another thing to ask....was the clutch cable adjusted correctly in the first place?! You need to have 2-3mm play in the pedal before it even starts to grab on the top (you should be able to press it with just a finger to move it)....then adjust like oozuk explained above

Anyway....part numbers if you need them
SZK-6293 (this is for a 18 spline) very un-common
SZK-6474 (OME replacement for the 20 spline)
SZK-6474HD (HD version for 20 spline)

[angus350]

cheers for the info guys, iv now got a clutch and flywheel is machined and all sorted, should finally be able to get this motor in

[bob9909]

Sorry to hijack this thread, but just wondering how important it is to machine the flywheel when installing a new clutch?
Cheers

[oozuk]

bob9909 wrote:

Sorry to hijack this thread, but just wondering how important it is to machine the flywheel when installing a new clutch?
Cheers

extremely important, as there will be high and low spots "hot spots" from the old clutch marked into the flywheel and if you fit a new clutch to it it can cause the new clutch to shudder or slip and reduce the new clutches life.

It's common practice to machine a flywheel when replacing the clutch, unless it's a dual mass flywheel (google it) which suzuki doesn't have in sierra/vitaras there more commonly found on 3Ltr patrols and you have to replace the flywheel when replacing the clutch. so be thankful you don't own one of them

[sando]

I do it everytime, clutch manufactures won't give any warranty if it isn't machine. At my local repco they will machine your flywheel for free with any clutch they supply. No reason not to do it IMO

[masterA]

Also replace the rear main and spigot bearing while you're at it