[KEENSY85]

Hi Gota just a brain wave ,has any one ever thought of using a Coily draglink in stead of a wt draglink and bending it to suit the width of the wt ,sounds silly I know I was thinking of this when trying to think of ways for creating clearence for ruf , like crank the draglink away from the pitman .not sure if I would try it just want to put it out there and see other peeps thoughts .and I know that coilys run the draglink behind the diff not in front.

[atari4x4]

sound safe... kind of like the Z link.

[KEENSY85]

Yer that's what I was thinking is get it plated so it would look bought

[stockman]

sound safe... kind of like the Z link.

[atari4x4]

KEENSY85 wrote:

Yer that's what I was thinking is get it plated so it would look bought

so it would look like a bent bought coily one with plates welded to it? sound really safe... kind of like the Z link.

[KEENSY85]

LOL pretty much . kinda like a z link be free nearly

[Fatzook]

KEENSY85 wrote:

Hi Gota just a brain wave ,has any one ever thought of using a Coily draglink in stead of a wt draglink and bending it to suit the width of the wt ,sounds silly I know I was thinking of this when trying to think of ways for creating clearence for ruf , like crank the draglink away from the pitman .not sure if I would try it just want to put it out there and see other peeps thoughts .and I know that coilys run the draglink behind the diff not in front.

Do you know what you are talking about???

The only link that runs behind the diff on a coily is the tie rod.

NFI what you are trying to achieve here

If you are concerned about your tie rod and drag link touching during cycle with RUF, them move your diff back to stock position, or move your steering box forward. There are no other feasable solutions to this problem.

[KEENSY85]

Fatzook wrote:

KEENSY85 wrote:

Hi Gota just a brain wave ,has any one ever thought of using a Coily draglink in stead of a wt draglink and bending it to suit the width of the wt ,sounds silly I know I was thinking of this when trying to think of ways for creating clearence for ruf , like crank the draglink away from the pitman .not sure if I would try it just want to put it out there and see other peeps thoughts .and I know that coilys run the draglink behind the diff not in front.

Do you know what you are talking about???

The only link that runs behind the diff on a coily is the tie rod.

NFI what you are trying to achieve here

If you are concerned about your tie rod and drag link touching during cycle with RUF, them move your diff back to stock position, or move your steering box forward. There are no other feasable solutions to this problem.

Tie rod link is what was talking about . Are u like pissed @ me cos from that post it seemed like it. And it was just me thinking out loud,I'm not saying I would it and bending it would require heat wich could weaken it as welding so I don't even think it would work .sorry if o said something wrong:(

[Fatzook]

No not pissed at anyone. Just as confused as you.

Bending the pissy little OEM rods is a terrible idea. They are so weak they bend when under load.

[KEENSY85]

Sorry I read it that way . I thought that was the case x2 .but just covering bases I meen I Gota get links for my narrow.track when I put wt diffs under so just thinking of any possible way of saving money thanks for discusing this topic us noobys to fab work need a bit of feed back from the more experienced zook lovers

[Fatzook]

Well in the interest of safety, I'll make a bold statement.

Modifying OEM steering and suspension components is not something that should be carried out by a novice.

[KEENSY85]

I'm hearing ya I've a bit of experience with fabrication but not with suzis,no time like the present to get some experience but I do understand what u meen and I don't mind some constructive critasisam if I learn something along the way:)

[want33s]

Thread title is Cranked DRAGlink....

KEENSY85 wrote:

Tie rod link is what was talking about .

How the hell is anyone supposed to know what you are on about if you don't ?

[KEENSY85]

Excuse the miss name thought I explained what I meant ,next time ill be sure to get out a dictionary and suzuki user manual .sorry for the post I won't bother next time :C

[KEENSY85]

Excuse the miss name thought I explained what I meant ,next time ill be sure to get out a dictionary and suzuki user manual .sorry for the post I won't bother next time

[KEENSY85]

Stupid phone I didn't meen to double post oops

[SierraDan]

Bumpstops will stop it clashing. My diff was moved heaps with no clash.

[KEENSY85]

SierraDan wrote:

Bumpstops will stop it clashing. My diff was moved heaps with no clash.

how much did u extend ur bump stops? I'm about to move my front mount +35mm and flip my rears .thanks mate

[SierraDan]

I had rear mount stock and front mount 60mm forward.
Bump stops were 50mm

[KEENSY85]

SierraDan wrote:

I had rear mount stock and front mount 60mm forward.
Bump stops were 50mm

Thanks mate

[2stroker]

KEENSY85 wrote:

SierraDan wrote:

Bumpstops will stop it clashing. My diff was moved heaps with no clash.

how much did u extend ur bump stops? I'm about to move my front mount +35mm and flip my rears .thanks mate

Hi Mate, although I vowed to speak no more about RUF after thrashing this topic to death I will add this because I can see you are looking for clues. If you go +35 on front mount and flip rears then standard steering components will be fine. The rear springs are around 75-80 mm longer, flipping the mount moves the rear bolt position back 20mm-30mm and you are going 35mm forward with the front mount which means you are nearly halving the distance so the diff only moves fractionally forward. Also bear in mind that depending on what spring you use the position of the bolt that holds the leaves together varies.

[JrZook]

2stroker wrote:

Also bear in mind that depending on what spring you use the position of the bolt that holds the leaves together varies.

This! Center-bolt position will also determine how far the diff has moved. What springs are you going to use?

[KEENSY85]

Dobsen or kings 40 mm ome in the front then 2.6" efs in the front ,I'm researching like mad iv been oogling Alex s build thread and many others .iv already prefabed the front extension plates and gussets to move the front mount 35mm and was thinking flip the rear mount like u said .iv been a bit worried about the steering components and such ,not sure about the bumpstop spacing if any is needed and I am planning a trip to my mates wrecking yard to chop some shock towers out of a scrap lux or ranger,iv still got a bit of body work to do before I split the chassis and shell iv done a lot of rust repair already doors and shell (welded up) a bit to go lol ,I bought this car for $500 and for that she's a gem ,still got my good engine and arb bar from my Coily ute (piece of shit car -built by Suzuki totaly f@#&* by randoms before I foolishly brought it )

[KEENSY85]

2stroker wrote:

KEENSY85 wrote:

SierraDan wrote:

Bumpstops will stop it clashing. My diff was moved heaps with no clash.

how much did u extend ur bump stops? I'm about to move my front mount +35mm and flip my rears .thanks mate

Hi Mate, although I vowed to speak no more about RUF after thrashing this topic to death I will add this because I can see you are looking for clues. If you go +35 on front mount and flip rears then standard steering components will be fine. The rear springs are around 75-80 mm longer, flipping the mount moves the rear bolt position back 20mm-30mm and you are going 35mm forward with the front mount which means you are nearly halving the distance so the diff only moves fractionally forward. Also bear in mind that depending on what spring you use the position of the bolt that holds the leaves together varies.

Thanks mate just what I needed to hear.

[KEENSY85]

Sorry guys ,I did it again I mean 2.6efs in the rear ,my bad

[2stroker]

You wrote that you are fitting WT diffs so I guess you have a NT, if you want a quick and easy bolt on RUF for it give me a PM I have one, no welding and completely reversable back to stock if you want to.

[KEENSY85]

Pm sent ,is rather weld but ill take a look

[KEENSY85]

2stroker wrote:

You wrote that you are fitting WT diffs so I guess you have a NT, if you want a quick and easy bolt on RUF for it give me a PM I have one, no welding and completely reversable back to stock if you want to.

Still waiting for a reply

[2stroker]

I had PM's and phone calls within an hour of posting that, it went same day.

Do you still want the front guard.

If you call me I can give you some advice about your RUF and WT/NT conversion, what Alex knows is what I told him.

[KEENSY85]

2stroker wrote:

I had PM's and phone calls within an hour of posting that, it went same day.

Do you still want the front guard.

If you call me I can give you some advice about your RUF and WT/NT conversion, what Alex knows is what I told him.

thanks mate