[BRAD]

hi all, getting 3'' coils soon just wondering once i lift the front up do i need to get extended brake lines, diff drop brackets even though im not changing my struts? ive all ready got a 30mm lift and do i need a set of camber bolts?
and for the rear i only need tail shaft spacer and upper a-arm spacer is that correct?

and for the rear brake lines just take the bolt off and that should hopefully give me enough length? (If you dont mind me using your photo DarkHorse)

any help appreciated THANKS!

[buzbox]

Front, I just took off the brake hose holder clip off the strut and cable tied it just above where it suppose to be. A little bit of convulated tubing and tape to protect it is a good idea. The control arms are at a weird angle with 3" springs in there though.

Rear, Tailshaft spacer, yep
Not 100% sure about the A Arm spacer though. I've got a std one in there at the moment and the BJ is almost at it's full articulation, but I don't have any spacer in with it.

rear brake line, yep undo that bolt or try to turn it to the side and screw it back in. Otherwise like in my case, it may get too close to the exhaust.

[atari4x4]

camber correction
diff drop
brake lines
extended struts or strut spcers or strut top flip
A arm spacer
maybe tail shaft spacer

[BRAD]

cheers guys helps alot

[DarkHorse]

BRAD wrote:

hi all, getting 3'' coils soon just wondering once i lift the front up do i need to get extended brake lines, would be a good idea, but not strictly necessary
diff drop brackets even though im not changing my struts? would be a good idea, but not strictly necessary. You're not getting longer struts?
ive all ready got a 30mm lift and do i need a set of camber bolts? Yes
and for the rear i only need tail shaft spacer and upper a-arm spacer is that correct? Yep, longer shocks would be good too...

and for the rear brake lines just take the bolt off and that should hopefully give me enough length? (If you dont mind me using your photo DarkHorse)
No probs
any help appreciated THANKS!

[got_bar_work]

What coils are u going to use
What length shocks
What struts
Fliped mount is like 30mn wich isnt realy enough
Longer struts are 40mm
I have big diff drop brackets and 70mm strut spacer which is max down that the cv can go
Any more and they snap If pushed hard
U will need longer rear brake line and diff breather or u will rip them off
A arm spacer is needed if u want the back to flex as the balljoint doesnt have much movement
But then ur gemotery is up the shit like mine which is y im now looking at moving the lowers aswell to keep the. Flat
3in lift is a lot of trial and error
MaKE sure u adjust ur steering stops or u well destroy cv's

[BRAD]

DarkHorse wrote:

BRAD wrote:

hi all, getting 3'' coils soon just wondering once i lift the front up do i need to get extended brake lines, would be a good idea, but not strictly necessary
diff drop brackets even though im not changing my struts? would be a good idea, but not strictly necessary. You're not getting longer struts?
ive all ready got a 30mm lift and do i need a set of camber bolts? Yes
and for the rear i only need tail shaft spacer and upper a-arm spacer is that correct? Yep, longer shocks would be good too...

and for the rear brake lines just take the bolt off and that should hopefully give me enough length? (If you dont mind me using your photo DarkHorse)
No probs
any help appreciated THANKS!

cheers Darkhorse nah struts staying the same, so with the camber bolts can i adjust it my self or do i just get the tyre place to do it and if i can do it do i jack the car up or leave it on the ground? cheers

[BRAD]

got_bar_work wrote:

What coils are u going to use
What length shocks
What struts
Fliped mount is like 30mn wich isnt realy enough
Longer struts are 40mm
I have big diff drop brackets and 70mm strut spacer which is max down that the cv can go
Any more and they snap If pushed hard
U will need longer rear brake line and diff breather or u will rip them off
A arm spacer is needed if u want the back to flex as the balljoint doesnt have much movement
But then ur gemotery is up the shit like mine which is y im now looking at moving the lowers aswell to keep the. Flat
3in lift is a lot of trial and error
MaKE sure u adjust ur steering stops or u well destroy cv's

Im gonna use jimnybits coils http://www.jimnybits.co.uk/shop/vitara- ... od_28.html
tough dog struts (not changing or putting spacers in dont want to have a crazy cv angle
diff breather tube is easy but is there any special tube i need ir?
adjust steering stops? is that if you go bigger struts?
i dont wanna get bigger struts cause i just want the rear to flex alot but the front just want it to stay the same and if you have 3'' coils in the rear and 30mm coils in the front it'll look a bit funny
thanks heaps

[atari4x4]

you will need strut spacers or something as you will have virtually ZER0 down travel left which will make it worse off road than what it already is....

[BRAD]

oh really? so what do yous recon 50mm?

[got_bar_work]

All the after market struts are 40 mm wich is safe with out diffdrop
More then that u will need diff drop
Just get there 3in kit then u got everything

[atari4x4]

got_bar_work wrote:

All the after market struts are 40 mm wich is safe with out diffdrop

not all struts are longer & i'm sure tuff dog are one that run the standard length.

[got_bar_work]

Ok so just dobbindon ome

[atari4x4]

+ Ironman & I think the ones that ODA import are also longer, I'm sure there are others.

[BRAD]

yes you are rite about them being standard height but that was a while ago, now they have changed them to a longer strut.

[weelz]

I've just fitted Dobinsons struts to my SV420 with 50mm lift, couldn't be happier. Eibach camber bolts, commodore shocks & shock relocators, and it all works well together. Cooper STT's in 225/75/16 on grand deep dish steels. Once you start, where do you stop?
Without the struts it wasn't nice at all, topping out even on the street.

[DarkHorse]

Camber bolts - you can adjust yourself up to a point, but I'd recommend getting a full alignment done as soon as possible after you put the lift in. You'll also need to adjust your tie-rod to centre the steering up again (don't just take the steering wheel off and move it around a few splines.) Put car on wheels, it'll be very pigeon toed and your steering will be pulled to the right. It's a case of adjusting, rolling forward, adjusting etc etc etc until the wheels get close to straight. Then drive it to an alignment

Steering stops - CVs crap themselves when they get power through them at nasty angles - horizontal as well as vertical (or in practice diagonal when both are in play.) With the lift you are putting them at greater angles to start with. Add full steering lock and the angle the CV is working at becomes pretty exaggerated. If you're running bigger (especially wider) tyres this will also help keep them off the chassis.

Lift alone isn't worth much without articulation - I'd strongly suggest longer shocks and struts.

[BRAD]

weelz wrote:

I've just fitted Dobinsons struts to my SV420 with 50mm lift, couldn't be happier. Eibach camber bolts, commodore shocks & shock relocators, and it all works well together. Cooper STT's in 225/45/16 on grand deep dish steels. Once you start, where do you stop?
Without the struts it wasn't nice at all, topping out even on the street.

cheers mate so dobinsons seems to be the way to go they are cheap aswell im pretty sure? and whats your cv angle like?

[BRAD]

DarkHorse wrote:

Camber bolts - you can adjust yourself up to a point, but I'd recommend getting a full alignment done as soon as possible after you put the lift in. You'll also need to adjust your tie-rod to centre the steering up again (don't just take the steering wheel off and move it around a few splines.) Put car on wheels, it'll be very pigeon toed and your steering will be pulled to the right. It's a case of adjusting, rolling forward, adjusting etc etc etc until the wheels get close to straight. Then drive it to an alignment so i can get the tyre shop to do that? instead of me not exactly knowing how to do it

Steering stops - CVs crap themselves when they get power through them at nasty angles - horizontal as well as vertical (or in practice diagonal when both are in play.) With the lift you are putting them at greater angles to start with. Add full steering lock and the angle the CV is working at becomes pretty exaggerated. If you're running bigger (especially wider) tyres this will also help keep them off the chassis. yess if heard of many people doing that so it sounds like i should get diff drops aswell to be safe?

Lift alone isn't worth much without articulation - I'd strongly suggest longer shocks and struts.

[BRAD]

Oh and does anyone know where i cant get adjustable lower control arms?

[DarkHorse]

Yep, get it to a shop. You may have to do a bit of tweaking to get it driveable though, so suss out how the tie-rod and camber bolts work as you do it (they're pretty straightforward if you take the time to have a look and a think.)

If you're going up 3" and with longer travel, yes I'd drop the diff. There is a theory that diff-drops will make your alloy front diff even more fragile, so if you can find a steel one from a GV...

Adjustable arms front or rear? Front no... rear I'm pretty sure the Calmini GV ones would work, but don't know anyone who's done it so can't say for sure. Someone like FatZook would be able to make some for you, but you'd be paying for the parts and the expertise. I've got an old set of stock arms that I'm going to chop and extend some time soon.

[atari4x4]

not sure if it's been mentioned yet, but i'd be looking into diff drop brackets.

[BRAD]

DarkHorse wrote:

Yep, get it to a shop. You may have to do a bit of tweaking to get it driveable though, so suss out how the tie-rod and camber bolts work as you do it (they're pretty straightforward if you take the time to have a look and a think.)

If you're going up 3" and with longer travel, yes I'd drop the diff. There is a theory that diff-drops will make your alloy front diff even more fragile, so if you can find a steel one from a GV...

Adjustable arms front or rear? Front no... rear I'm pretty sure the Calmini GV ones would work, but don't know anyone who's done it so can't say for sure. Someone like FatZook would be able to make some for you, but you'd be paying for the parts and the expertise. I've got an old set of stock arms that I'm going to chop and extend some time soon.

yeah ill do it very basic until i get it to a tyre shop orrr i could just be a drag car and to a wheelie the hole way there
an wat year model gv diff do i get? do i have to switch the diff centres ? can this help? http://www.bits4vits.co.uk/store/vitara ... d_496.html

arms for the rear...they will give even more flex being longer wont they? but it'll be better to have them adjustable so you can have them standard while your doing the daily shopping but when ya out there off roading extend them to get more flex

[BRAD]

atari4x4 wrote:

not sure if it's been mentioned yet, but i'd be looking into diff drop brackets.

definitely now that i gotta get longer struts hey atari what rear shocks do you use? what do you think of them (just trying to get an idea what rear shocks will be good for 3'' lift or a bit bigger) cheers

[DarkHorse]

That B4V bush should help things when you drop the diff, take the tension off the pinion.

The steel diffs are from a first gen (98-02 I think) manual V6 GV. There are two types of pinion mount that they come with, the earlier ones match the Vit one, and that bush. The later ones are different, but will still bolt up (bush won't work though.) You'll need to get your ring and pinion changed into the new 3rd.

Longer rear arms won't necessarily improve flex, that's more governed by the travel in your shocks. They will put the axle back closer to the centre of the wheel arches so you have less scrubbing issues with the massive rubber you'll be putting on

[shandy92]

Soooooo, it's a lot of work for some 3" springs and some rear flex

[DarkHorse]

3" is a big lift for a Vit, yes. You're starting to push the envelope once you get beyond the usual 35mm options.

Joys of IFS.

[BRAD]

DarkHorse wrote:

That B4V bush should help things when you drop the diff, take the tension off the pinion.

The steel diffs are from a first gen (98-02 I think) manual V6 GV. There are two types of pinion mount that they come with, the earlier ones match the Vit one, and that bush. The later ones are different, but will still bolt up (bush won't work though.) You'll need to get your ring and pinion changed into the new 3rd.

Longer rear arms won't necessarily improve flex, that's more governed by the travel in your shocks. They will put the axle back closer to the centre of the wheel arches so you have less scrubbing issues with the massive rubber you'll be putting on

like this?

[got_bar_work]

Now thay looks good

[DarkHorse]

Does. They'd be at least 35s?

Hard to see, but looks like it's still IFS. Must have longer rear arms and a decent amount of chopping...?