[douglasgiersch]

So I am almost to the point of painting the inside of my sierra and am unsure what to do, Options are as follows.
1.Coat it with under body spray (3m stonegaurd)-Please note this is the hard drying stuff not the soft squishy junk that dust sticks to. Have painted underneath with it using the underbody gun and it came up well, like the finish and durability. And it Can be painted over.

2.Just paint it using the same paint as the exterior (will save a lot of masking up) but wont be as tough.
Underbody spray it then spray it with exterior paint as well, (saving masking up and still durable) But double the cost.) 1L of the spray is about 25-30 and did the underbody fine, might want 2l for interior but.
Also please do not say that the underbody stuff traps the water underneath it and rusts, if prepped correctly it will be just as rust resistant if not more than ordinary paint (and i prime underneath it anyway)

Whichever one i decide on i will get some floor mats and eventually (when the hip pocket agrees) make a centre console type deal with marine ply and suitable carpet.
Comfort isn't the biggest worry for me so long as it last well and looks neat.
Please let me know if you have used either and if you would do it again or not. Also i have sprayed under body already so cant sandblast the interior without stuffing the other side.

Doug.

[tonyevans]

That is exactly what I have done - Tony

[want33s]

I painted inside Snow White with white Killrust and outside with white acrylic.
If I were to do that car again the whole thing inside and out would be in Killrust.

[zooky08]

Por15

[douglasgiersch]

tonyevans wrote:

That is exactly what I have done - Tony

Which one did you use tony? Also i see your from lightning ridge good little town and a bloody good steak at the rsl had a friend working at comebychance about 30ks from Walget, went up for a bit of a shoot.

zooky08 wrote:

Por15

Which type did you use? Also how much did it cost and did your spray or roll it? Looks like some pretty good shit,

[zooky08]

I used marine clean, metal ready, solvent, and rust preventive paint. Around $200 mark. It's not cheap. I put it through a gun.
It sets hard and gives a nice Smooth shinny finish.

[tonyevans]

Just the normal body deadener - 4lt can and applied with a brush - Sand blasted and primed first though.

[Gwagensteve]

Isn't normal body deadener bitumenised though? (i.e. never gets hard/dissolves with contact with hydrocarbons etc)

I've used herculiner before, but the last batch we bought was past its shelf life and was a nightmare to work with. Very durable though.

I've also tried K&H body "KAHGUARD" in an aerosol but found it almost impossible to get it to spray properly. I see that K&H is now a 3M brand and it looks like this product isn't current in an aerosol form (?) Perhaps with a top feed gun it might spray better.

http://solutions.3m.com.au/wps/portal/3 ... 3661470391

There's still a K&H "body deadener" available that is bitumenised.

I've just painted piggles the same inside as out. No body deadener either side. One downside of sprayed on deadener is that if you make modifications/want to weld to the body it's messy to work with.

Steve.

[tonyevans]

Yes it is bituminous but it does dry very firm and I usually put the petrol in the tank and not the inside of the cab but I must admit if I was in the habit of doing so I would probably use a container for it.

[Gwagensteve]

tonyevans wrote:

Yes it is bituminous but it does dry very firm and I usually put the petrol in the tank and not the inside of the cab but I must admit if I was in the habit of doing so I would probably use a container for it.

I haven't had much luck with bituminous deadener inside the car. I found it went soft where exposed to heat around the tunnel and above the exhaust. Prep for subsequent painting softened it. Whilst it was "paintable" the paint quickly wore off because the deadener is more flexible than the paint. Spill ANY solvent/motor oil/petrol/whatever in the car and it starts to dissolve in a black tacky mess, and as the OP pointed out, dust sticks to it so it gets dirty.

In some places in the car I applied it to it was fine, in others, a disaster.

These are the same problems the factory bituminous sheets suffer from, but at least they are easy to remove.

Unless it was a urethane-type product, I wouldn't use anything inside the car except paint. I'd use thickish rubber sheet to damp noise, which won't break down or absorb anything and can be lifted out to clean the interior.

Just my 2C.

Steve.

[tonyevans]

You seem to have little sense of humour Steve.

[Gwagensteve]

I resemble that remark

I did get the joke, but I've been scarred badly enough with the mess that bitumen stuff resulted in to do my best to discourage anybody from using it.

Steve.