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Post Posted: Tue Mar 27, 2012 5:57 pm 
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Hey Gents,
When you take the breather cap off the transfer case, is it normal for some air to escape (enough to make an audible sound) or does that mean my breather has been blocked for some time? Or alternatively did I take something off Im not meant to.
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Post Posted: Tue Mar 27, 2012 6:20 pm 
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Sounds like the breather is blocked. Quite common and not really a huge issue

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Post Posted: Tue Mar 27, 2012 6:21 pm 
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Thanks mate

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Post Posted: Tue Mar 27, 2012 6:28 pm 
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How did you get the breather off?? I'm wanting to put a breather on it

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Post Posted: Tue Mar 27, 2012 6:33 pm 
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Pliers will pull the cap off, but the resulting barb is too small to reliably get a hose to stay on.

If you remove the steel breather altogether, the resulting hole in the alloy transfer case is exactly the right size to tap with a 1/4 BSP thread to screw a proper barb into.

Steve.

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Post Posted: Tue Mar 27, 2012 7:04 pm 
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I did notice that, I don't have a tap set though :(

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Post Posted: Tue Mar 27, 2012 7:51 pm 
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Gwagensteve wrote:
Pliers will pull the cap off, but the resulting barb is too small to reliably get a hose to stay on.

If you remove the steel breather altogether, the resulting hole in the alloy transfer case is exactly the right size to tap with a 1/4 BSP thread to screw a proper barb into.

Steve.


Great info!
So grab hold of the factory one in a pair of pilers and screw it out?
When you do tap the thread in is there a bad risk of particles from doing the tap, getting into the case or is it that small amount its not a worry?
Or I guess you split the case!!!!!! Big hassle!

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Post Posted: Tue Mar 27, 2012 7:55 pm 
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I was in a hurry when I fitted mine so I removed the tin cap and then Devcon'ed a 1/4 drive socket over the spout to attach a hose to.

That was 4 or 5 years ago and it's still there.

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Post Posted: Tue Mar 27, 2012 8:10 pm 
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I tried several methods with mine but the one that has worked now for a while was to use a small cable tie to attach a short section of silicon tube to the small aluminium pipe section than is under the breather cap. There is a lip on this pipe so the cable tie can pull the silicon tube into it. I then attached a plastic right angle to the silicon and from there went to the normal breather tube.

The silicon tube is heat and oil proof and also absorbs all the vibrations.

The problem that I had attaching to the small breather pipe is that the vibrations would eventually work it loose. I only figured this out after I ordered a new breather cap from Suzuki and for about $2.50 received the whole assembly with the cap, spring and insert from Japan. Could not believe how cheap it was but only then did I understand that that insert was removable and came up with the idea of using a silicon tube.

The proper way to do this is to remove the transfer case and tap into either the small pipe or remove that and tap into the case. This would be more permanent. For those with a recent model Jimny like I do then there is already a cover in the floor where on previous models the manual transfer lever came through the body. If you are prepared to cut the carpet then you can unscrew this plate and access the breather port on the transfer case wityhout removing it.

Mike

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Post Posted: Wed Mar 28, 2012 9:21 am 
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if you tap the hole in a complete case, drain out the oil after the job.

Its only small soft aluminium pieces and they should mostly come out with the oil.

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Post Posted: Wed Mar 28, 2012 4:55 pm 
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^ what Blue suzy said. Flush it with 5L of cheap oil and it should be fine I reckon, with a few gentle rotations to mix things round.

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Post Posted: Wed Mar 28, 2012 5:11 pm 
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5L.. geez.

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Post Posted: Wed Mar 28, 2012 7:22 pm 
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You could also load up the tap with grease so it catches most of the swarf. Every turn or so take it out, clean of the swarf, reload with grease and repeat.

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Post Posted: Wed Mar 28, 2012 7:23 pm 
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Another way might be to fill the hole with grease before you start and then fish out all the shavings before they get into the transfer case. Never done it so not sure if it will work but might be worth a try. Clean all the grease out afterwards of course.

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Post Posted: Wed Mar 28, 2012 7:24 pm 
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Sorry Steve, missed your post. Great minds?

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Post Posted: Wed Mar 28, 2012 7:26 pm 
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steve125 wrote:
You could also load up the tap with grease so it catches most of the swarf. Every turn or so take it out, clean of the swarf, reload with grease and repeat.



Good point!
Im off to the bolt shop 2moro, for a tap and breather barb.

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Post Posted: Wed Mar 28, 2012 7:32 pm 
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want33s wrote:
I was in a hurry when I fitted mine so I removed the tin cap and then Devcon'ed a 1/4 drive socket over the spout to attach a hose to.

That was 4 or 5 years ago and it's still there.


Nothing beats a semi permanent fix :peaceout:

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Post Posted: Sun Jul 08, 2012 2:46 pm 
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hey, you blokes that have done the WT cases using the tap method. did you have to buy a right angle barb fitting? or is there sufficient clearance under the body for a straight fitting.
This is for my Jimny btw.

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Post Posted: Sun Jul 08, 2012 9:59 pm 
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Right angle would be best.

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Post Posted: Mon Jul 09, 2012 10:13 am 
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yep, all sorted, looks the goods too, will post a pic later

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Post Posted: Mon Jul 09, 2012 6:01 pm 
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Don't forget about the breather hole on the motor in the electronic models. A T-piece will suffice. I have used 8mm PVC hose throughout. Its a good size to fit into press in connectors. I have 4 breathers running to my air box. I opened up my transfer case 2 weeks ago. Its in pristine condition after 3 years of abuse and drownings.

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Post Posted: Mon Jul 09, 2012 7:11 pm 
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mines a WT case Bugs, but yeah good point dude!

heres mine immediatley after the job, and after rebuilding

Image
Image

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Post Posted: Tue Apr 30, 2013 4:42 pm 
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I just tapped mine (was putting new gears in) and i would DEFINATELY change the oil or open the case to get it all out because there was heaps of metal filling
Although it aluminium i still wouldn't want that getting caught in between the gears or inside the bearings

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