[zooky08]

just wondering what diff ratio would a 1980 hilux have, and can they take dirty 30's or ring and pinion upgrades.

cheers.

[want33s]

Petrol or diesel?
Yes and yes.

[zooky08]

its a petrol

[want33s]

Probably 4.5:1

You got the VIN?

[zooky08]

nah sorry its at a friends place
what r&p set, 7.5 or the 8"?

[want33s]

Should be 8.

[zooky08]

it should be a 1980 rn46 hilux with a 18r petrol engine, if that helps.
if the diffs can take aftermarket r&p and axles, then thats all i want to no.

[BlueSuzy]

Why do you want to change to aftermarket?

A lot of common ratios out there

4.3, 4.5, 4.8

[zooky08]

BlueSuzy wrote:

Why do you want to change to aftermarket?

A lot of common ratios out there

4.3, 4.5, 4.8

just incase the ratios that are in the diff aren't enough for 37. so ill be able to buy higher ratio if need to.

[Red89]

I thought all petrols were 4.88 which wont take aftermarket gears.

[zooky08]

did a bit off googling and read a few forums saying there 4.88 as well. if they dont take aftermaket gears or axles, then these diffs wont work for me

[BlueSuzy]

The housings will, the 3rd members/centres wont



Next project i would do is just find housings and axles, wait until you know what ratios you need after more reasearch then buy them

[Red89]

zooky08 wrote:

did a bit off googling and read a few forums saying there 4.88 as well. if they dont take aftermaket gears or axles, then these diffs wont work for me

If you are on a tight budget you can use 5.29 R&P's out of a Hiace, but they are a thin ring gear like the stock 4.88's. In the below pic it is stock 4.3 ring on the left, stock 4.88 in the middle and Nitro 4.88 on the right.

[zooky08]

i have no budget, i was getting the hole hilux for free. shouldnt be hard to track down some diesel hilux diff centers
im not to worried having the exact right ratio as ill have a auto, im more worried about not geting full strength out of the diff by using aftermarket parts

[BlueSuzy]

The aftermarket ring and pinion is very random in strengths it seems, 4.88, 5.12, Some people go through them, some dont.

Higher 4.88's fail also under heavy rigs and this is where most of the comparisons come from.


If your putting them under a zook, you should be right.
More stock ratio's the better.
Run the chromo's, dirty 30's are a copy of longfields, so your already compromising.

I'll be running a cruiser 4.3 HP in a lux front, airlocked with dirty 30's on 35's. See how it goes..

[Red89]

A mate has, essentially a single cab Lux, 40's, Commodore V6 and twin cases so pretty heavy, and he has only broken a couple 4.88's when he was being stupid. What TC gears will be in it ? I've got 5.14 TC gears, 5.29 Diff gears, 38's and stock carby 1.3 and its fine for crawling but when you need to give it a decent squirt for big stepups etc it runs out of balls pretty quickly and you need to ring its neck in low 1st. High range needs a fair bit of clutch slippage to get going but 1st and 2nd is easy enough once moving.

[zooky08]

g16b auto, 6.5s, say 4.88 with 37s.

[appsie]

as bevan said being a petrol will be 4.88
84ish diesels will be 4.5
88-97 diesel will be 4.3

aftermarket gears will not go in a stock 4.8 definate and i believe some 4.5 3rds?

dirty 30s will fit

earlier model ones didnt have the laminated front housing

earlier models like your explaining had a super super small tie rod and also have smaller brake drums on the rear

i run stock 4.8s with yukon spools and 37 treps in my zuk. and while this car doesnt get driven every weekend or abused when it does get driven it has driven some pretty cool stuff including OL and TT comp grounds reliably
had them set a bit tight with backlash due to not being hiway driven etc,should of went pinion spacers while i was at it tho

with the auto you will have alot of gearing,i am 1.3 with manual 6.5s,4.8s,37s and its a awesome crawler,sometimes could benefit from 5.29s or more power lol
unlike bevan i find i can take off fine in 2wd hi,flat ground definately helps a slight hill can hurt it a bit but in 4hi it definately could do with more power or gearing

[Red89]

zooky08 wrote:

g16b auto, 6.5s, say 4.88 with 37s.

With that combination and considering you are getting them for free I would do it.

[zooky08]

are 4.88 27 or 30 spline?

[want33s]

4.88 with 37's is lower than 3.9 with 32's.

[Red89]

zooky08 wrote:

are 4.88 27 or 30 spline?

Not 100% but pretty sure they are all 30 spline at the side gear, they neck down to 27 for the stock CV and then back to 30 for the FWH. Aftermarket CV's are mostly 30 spline and so you need the 30 spline axles which are 30 all the way through if you plan on cromo cvs.

want33s wrote:

4.88 with 37's is lower than 3.9 with 32's.

Lux diffs and 37 would also be a fair bit heavier, so you would need the extra bit of gearing to compensate some.

[appsie]

you can then run trailgear creeper flanges to do away with free wheelin hubs n keep it strong but all i done was replace the hub gear at the back of FWH with a longfield cromoly unit and so far once again its all proving to be reliable. and upgraded my bolts to 12.9 cap screws.

want33s,cut4b,11evl all have an awesome shopping list of parts thrown into thier diffs but i called alot of things early n so far so good.something will always break still

longfields seem to get a slightly better wrap than dirty 30s,and are $100 more but i think warranty n strength on 30s seems fair anyway. nitro 5.29s in mine would be the next top mod i reckon i could do,but i have plenty of 4.8s here that il probably never go thru and that are complete and ready for just new gear prices so aint gonna chase new 3rds yet just to spend more money

auto may help you anyway,being a little kinder on the gear

[SierraDan]

did you want to offload a 4.8 centre?
My front one is kaboomed.

[zooky08]

Do you run cromo axles at all appsie.

[appsie]

im unsure if id want to part with any.theyre gettin harder to find here man

yeah i do, i run dirty 30s,think my earlier post stated that,i think lol

edit: sorry i didnt but i run stock 4.8s with yukon spools,dirty 30 axles up front,stock rears,longfield cromo hub gears,12.9 cap screws, bit of bracing etc.with a single ended ram. pretty cheap diffs but so far doing the job.

[appsie]

6 shooters is one thing i probably should of went.but i just keep checkin my knuckles throughout the day and tightening the bolts,so far no breakages

[zooky08]

Okay sweet, I was just going to stick some axles in and brace the diff and drive it.
Was thing of thoes six shooter swivel hubs as well. But ill try the cheap way for the first build. Then grow on it.

[appsie]

i keep a good eye on mine to make sure they stay tight n its working. i have my ram set up so it bumps out for right turn,but havent stripped the ram and made a spacer for left turn yet so its making them get a bit looser than they should and putting stress on the knuckles. have heard of situations where it rips knuckles off diffs etc so i should get onto it lol....lazy

i say with axles and flanges/hub gears you will have a pretty reliable setup.but wouldnt attempt a 37 sticky without axles

[want33s]

zooky08 wrote:

Okay sweet, I was just going to stick some axles in and brace the diff and drive it.
Was thing of thoes six shooter swivel hubs as well. But ill try the cheap way for the first build. Then grow on it.

Ever heard the expression....."The poor man pays twice"?

I'm not rolling in cash in fact I'm doing it pretty hard this last year but I have spent good $$$ on parts so that I won't have to buy the same stuff again.
In the long run you'll save money by not buying twice and save a lot of time & work replacing broken bits.

Nothing worse than towing hours to get to good driving then breaking some pissant part and having to go home early.