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Post Posted: Mon Jun 11, 2012 7:13 pm 
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kenn wrote:
31zook wrote:
I would buy a second set of centers, weld them up, and run that till you can afford to buy airlockers




Yeah, and maybe you will have saved enough money to fix the front of your car when you punch a tree with it cause you cant turn it quickly enough.


Save up, buy the right locker, that you want, once.
Just my opinion, you cant go past an ARB Air locker and for a little bit more money you can put the heavy duty air lines on.


I never had a problem with mine, you just drive for the car, kindas like being SPOA.... and the turning circle is crap, but not insane....

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Post Posted: Tue Jun 12, 2012 6:46 pm 
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Heavy duty airlines eh... that sounds like a good plan when I eventually get there.

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Post Posted: Tue Jun 12, 2012 11:23 pm 
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What do you guys consider heavy duty? What kinda pressures?

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Post Posted: Tue Jun 12, 2012 11:28 pm 
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Well the locker runs at 100psi. But the quality of the ARB lines leave much to be desired..

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Post Posted: Sun Jun 17, 2012 12:00 pm 
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I run 150psi through mine for the air shift on the second transfer, my rear air locker line is still standard and I have had no problems with it.

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Post Posted: Sun Jun 17, 2012 2:34 pm 
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abclarke wrote:
What do you guys consider heavy duty? What kinda pressures?


Compare and contrast.

It's not so much the pressure it can handle but the general toughness of the line that has to survive underneath a car. Should be standard on all air lockers but ARB knows best. About $80 on top of the cost of the locker and install. Also allow another $150 for a solid pinion spacer too.

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Post Posted: Sun Jun 17, 2012 4:31 pm 
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steve125 wrote:
abclarke wrote:
What do you guys consider heavy duty? What kinda pressures?


Compare and contrast.

It's not so much the pressure it can handle but the general toughness of the line that has to survive underneath a car. Should be standard on all air lockers but ARB knows best. About $80 on top of the cost of the locker and install. Also allow another $150 for a solid pinion spacer too.

Image


Your average monkey can run a standard air line so it is limited to damage. terrain being driven is also a consideration. My vehicle, I still run standard blue line and have had no issues, but I have routed it so as to limit damage. Someone using it in Moab won't need a heavy duty kit, but someone who enjoys mud and all the debris that sits in a boghole might. Also, don't waste any time with a solid pinion spacer.

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Post Posted: Sun Jun 17, 2012 5:17 pm 
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when i eventually get to installing an air locker, im thinking about running the air line inside some 16mm dia. steel conduit mounted right in the inside corner where the chassis meets the floor sealed with sikaflex or similar at each end to stop grime and crap getting in and wearing through the line

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Post Posted: Sun Jun 17, 2012 5:21 pm 
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my arb heavy duty air line blew out the side of the hose on the very first drive.
the blue line was still going fine after a couple of years when I replaced it.
so now I have blue line again

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Post Posted: Sun Jun 17, 2012 6:09 pm 
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joeblow wrote:
steve125 wrote:
abclarke wrote:
What do you guys consider heavy duty? What kinda pressures?


Compare and contrast.

It's not so much the pressure it can handle but the general toughness of the line that has to survive underneath a car. Should be standard on all air lockers but ARB knows best. About $80 on top of the cost of the locker and install. Also allow another $150 for a solid pinion spacer too.

Image


Your average monkey can run a standard air line so it is limited to damage. terrain being driven is also a consideration. My vehicle, I still run standard blue line and have had no issues, but I have routed it so as to limit damage. Someone using it in Moab won't need a heavy duty kit, but someone who enjoys mud and all the debris that sits in a boghole might. Also, don't waste any time with a solid pinion spacer.


i have heard that was the first thing you were meant to do with lockers and big tyres? or is it the old 5inch lift to fit 31s thing?

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Post Posted: Sun Jun 17, 2012 6:16 pm 
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Shansh wrote:
when i eventually get to installing an air locker, im thinking about running the air line inside some 16mm dia. steel conduit mounted right in the inside corner where the chassis meets the floor sealed with sikaflex or similar at each end to stop grime and crap getting in and wearing through the line


Yeah exact thing i was thinking, we have enough of it laying around the electrical shop at work. Sure they wont miss a few metres :lol:

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Post Posted: Sun Jun 17, 2012 6:45 pm 
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Some people claim solid spacers are pointless and do nothing to improve longevity. I'll stand by running a solid spacer. Those of us who have solid spacers have had zero issues with pinion bearing failure or even pinion seal failure.

I'll stand by the worth of solid spacers and heavy duty locker lines, based on my experience.

Steve.

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Post Posted: Sun Jun 17, 2012 7:08 pm 
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joeblow wrote:
steve125 wrote:
abclarke wrote:
What do you guys consider heavy duty? What kinda pressures?


Compare and contrast.

It's not so much the pressure it can handle but the general toughness of the line that has to survive underneath a car. Should be standard on all air lockers but ARB knows best. About $80 on top of the cost of the locker and install. Also allow another $150 for a solid pinion spacer too.

Image


Your average monkey can run a standard air line so it is limited to damage. terrain being driven is also a consideration. My vehicle, I still run standard blue line and have had no issues, but I have routed it so as to limit damage. Someone using it in Moab won't need a heavy duty kit, but someone who enjoys mud and all the debris that sits in a boghole might. Also, don't waste any time with a solid pinion spacer.



X2

My air lockers are only running blue lines but there covered in 7mm conduit the whole way from the diff to the compressor, I zip tie my locker lines along the fixed brake lines across the diff and follow up the brake line with a little slack at either end with the lines zip tied to something every 6-12 inches.

I've installed many like this and never had a failure

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Post Posted: Wed Jul 18, 2012 8:47 pm 
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Might be able to help, never had an airlocker but hoses are my profession...

From the pic it looks like the ARB blue hoses use a nut and olive setup to seal connections. It appears to be nylon air tubing, which is 150psi rated but as others have mentioned before, there are large differences in qualities across brands.

Jump down to a hyd fitting or ag shop and grab some spare brass nut and olives in that size, it may say on the swivel nut of the fitting. Looks like 3/16, 6mm or 6.3mm. Also grab 3 metres of spare tubing and two equal union joiners for the hose. That way if you're out in the rough shit and puncture a line, you can literally cut it straight on both ends and put the joiner in to get you back to shiny lights.

You could use nut and olive style joiners but I've found it easier to fit whats called a 'Push-pull' fitting in the appropriate size. These are the style more commonly used on road trains for the dolly air lines, etc. Push the hose into the apperture as far as it will go, let go and it will not come out. To remove the hose, you simply push the collet around the outside diameter of the hose and pull the hose out. Very easy to fit while in an awkward spot, beats stuffing around with the spanners required to fit the nut and olive type.

Push pull joiners come in Stainless or plastic. They are very affordable, prob something like 5 bucks each retail in small sizes.

You can probably also use push pulls into the diff itself by pulling out the original fitting, matching the thread and replacing it with one available from any half decent hyd fittings store.

Useless OT information - expressed.

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Post Posted: Wed Jul 18, 2012 8:54 pm 
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Oh and careful with zip tying hoses to anything - I've seen zipties go through wire bound hydraulic rated hoses in time, let alone nylon. Where it's zipied, use some thing rubber or heavy duty conduit/spiral hose wrap. Or use P-clamps to secure them, a p shaped metal clamp with a thin rubber coating. Run each hose in it's own conduit before securing it or putting it into a larger loom of conduit.
P clamps are available at the aforementioned stores, your local CAT dealership or large machine auto electrical outlets.

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Post Posted: Thu Jul 19, 2012 12:12 am 
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Haha every time I think I know what I want i read a new thread and it throws me out! I can appreciate that most agree the air lockers are the way to go, but atm the bulk of my funds are going elsewhere (1.6 conversion, tray back, lift etc) I was going to settle for the spartan lockers (possibbly in both) for a year or so.. Always mixed reviews but does anyone have a particular horror story on why I shouldn't?

And spool that's awesome advice mate for when I can eventually afford the air :)

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Post Posted: Thu Jul 19, 2012 5:34 am 
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I love my front lockright i hate my back
I never notice my front besides high speed 4wd
It tends to tramline
The rear is a bit of a bitch on the road so if i had the money i would go a arb
My vit has ps and twin sticks so i can drive 2wdlow so that could be y i dont notice it
I tend to drop in 2wd when i need to go hard lock to save my cv

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Post Posted: Sun Jul 22, 2012 3:21 am 
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Spool wrote:
Might be able to help, never had an airlocker but hoses are my profession...




Air lockers use 5mm line, which is apparently hard to find replacement parts for. Many people have swapped to 6mm to have access to more choice for fittings etc.

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Post Posted: Sun Jul 22, 2012 10:40 am 
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Im a plumber and It looks like the same size as water hose from fridges. Fridge hose is rated to 15bar, 1500psi

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